jkenny23 wrote:I'm quite skeptical of the smaller range extending options but for a full pack swap it seems pretty simple to me, just swap out the full BMS/contactor connector which he could have done manually when he put the camera down, and the 2 packs could be left in parallel since only one set of contactors would be active at any time.
I think you could leave both batteries in parallel and just use their contactors for changing between batteries. You could also possibly close both batteries' contactors and run both at the same time, provided both had the exact same level of charge and therefore voltage.
It would still be risky doing it that way though as seen here:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Zivzvh9Bx0&t=49s
But it looks like the problem resistor is in the inverter, not the battery itself. If you keep the contactors open in one traction battery there shouldn't be anything in there that could get fried that I know of. But there is a risk that there could be. It would be nice to find a diagram of how the traction batteries are wired just to make sure. Switching low voltage signals between batteries would be cheap and easy. But it would be nice to keep both connected to the main bus without any costly high power switching device. At most, a second set of contactors would be used to isolate the bus going to the second battery, especially if that battery were on a trailer.
Here's a video on the 12V signals:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0IozEyeGSk
2013 SL 50,000 miles.
12 bars until 44,300 miles on June 2, 2017.
11 bars current.
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