How to buy if you're in the boonies...

[alozzy]

@eyemgh What about this one, in Bend OR?

https://goo.gl/11Rwwr

Based on the original sales sticker, it's an SV with the QC + LED package:

http://cpo.nissanusa.com/nna/?1N4AZ0CP2DC403071

Had a quick look on PlugShare - looks like it might be doable to drive it back home...

[alozzy]

Same dealership in Bend has a few other Leafs, although they are newer and more $$$

http://www.jimsmolichmotors.net/used-in ... model=LEAF

[eyemgh]

I'm floored that they can Certify a Leaf w/ nearly 70,000 miles! Seems like a lot of dough for those miles.

As for the rest, I don't want an S.

If I did, there's a good one right in Medford, 2014 for $8995.

[LeftieBiker]

Remember to ask for the build date for ANY 2013 Leaf. it's on the driver's door sill manufacture info sticker. It's also usually in the Carfax report.

[cwerdna]

I'm floored that they can Certify a Leaf w/ nearly 70,000 miles! Seems like a lot of dough for those miles.

http://nissannews.com/en-US/nissan/usa/ ... es-program says they can't

To qualify for the CPO program, a Nissan LEAF must have less than 60,000 miles, be less than 5 years from its original in-service date, have a clear CARFAX vehicle history report and pass a 167- point comprehensive quality inspection. The vehicle must also have a minimum of 9 bars of battery capacity, out of 12 total, as represented on the vehicle battery capacity level gauge.

Nissan-franchise dealers tend to have high markups vs. used car lots. The CPO warranty doesn't get you really anything other than an extension on the EV system/powertrain warranty (which is originally 5 years/60K from orig. in-service date).

[BuckMkII]

I'm not as concerned about getting it home as I am about assessing them from afar. Making a trip to Portland or Seattle presumes I'll find one at the price I'm willing to pay. It would be easier to guarantee that if I could get a handle on ones I want to drive before I went up there. Without Leaf Spy data though, that's not really possible.

If you are insistent on only getting the VERY best SOH for that age of car, that would be a problem. OTOH, if you just wanted to be sure you were getting one that was "good enough," i.e. in the top third of battery health for that vintage, or something like that (compared with all US Leafs), then I would think that if you could verify by Carfax that the car did not sit at a dealer for very long between manufacture and purchase (particularly in summer), and that it had been sold and subsequently serviced in the Portland area, it would be likely to fit that description. Dud batteries are mostly going to be in cars that were abused by parking for many months at 100% and/or used in a hotter region. I guess it's possible that someone in Portland could have charged their car to 100% twice a day and hurt it, but hopefully that's unusual.

So, if you could locate two or three likely cars in Portland, then go look at those, I'd bet the chances of being skunked were low. As long as you have more than one dealer with an acceptable car, you can negotiate with the strength of being willing to walk out.

When I bought my car in May, my goal was to get one that was no worse than average without spending much time searching. I'm not actually sure I achieved that, but I'm happy enough!

[alozzy]

You're going to have to compromise on something, as you seem to want to get a 2013/2014 SV for cheap. That SV in Bend, assuming the battery is decent, is a perfect vehicle to make a low ball offer on. The high mileage is going to scare off your average buyer. I would offer $8500 for that vehicle, if the SOH was in the high 80% range or better.

All other things being equal, mileage is the safest compromise as it's not usually an indicator of battery health. In my mind, it's all about the battery

[eyemgh]

I'm very close to pulling the trigger on a '14 SL with the Premium Package. It's a one owner with 43,000 miles and 12 bars, in a color I can tolerate (anything but Ocean Blue...sorry alozzy ). It has been used as a daily 35 mile(ish) round trip commuter, driven by a female professional, in a mild climate. It has been almost exclusively charged at home with only 15 DCQCs. It has a clean Carfax and just got a great report card from Nissan. I'm taking a bit of a risk by not Leaf Spying it, but I trust the seller is being truthful. I'm assuming a SoH of 80% or better and an equivalent AHr since it has 12 bars. We'll come to some sort of "warranty" agreement to protect me from rapid loss suggestive of a reset. I'll have to pay to ship it, but I have a friend in the vintage car business who will bring it up for $300. It'll need tires fairly soon. The price we agreed on is $10k plus he's including an unopened Juice Box Pro 40. I could pay less for an S, but not much. It gets cold enough here that the bit of extra range from the more efficient heater is worth it. Certainly there are similar cars out there for MUCH more. An EV dealer would want between $12k and $13k and a conventional dealer would price it between $14k and $16k. It's more than what I thought I'd have to pay given all the articles on screamin' deals posted about a year ago (the reason why I started the "What Sould I Pay?" thread in the first place was that discrepancy), but given all the prices I've seen (including Fiat 500e and Ford Focus Electric), this one seems like "the one."

[cwerdna]

^^^
Where did the the Carfax say the car resided?

[eyemgh]

I'll get the full carfax tonight along with the Nissan records. By resided, do you mean where it lived it's life or are you more concerned about where it originated? Tell me more please.