Battery capacity question (with picture)

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hyperionmark

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 31, 2017
Messages
202
Location
Nebraska
So this is denoting that I have a full 12 bars left? (although I would assume it's close to losing the first bar)

Is that normal for a 2013 S that was built in January of that year?

All that info being said, if everything else looks great on the car...is $7,000 a pretty decent deal?

Thanks!

https://goo.gl/photos/T7qMGNncpwZWFKrv5
 
Hmmmm... Generally, early build 2013 Leafs lose bars fast. There have been a few exceptions in genuinely cold or cool climates, but this would be the first one I've seen from a warmer area with 12 bars at that age and mileage. I'd worry about a BMS reset having been done, unless it was kept in an air-conditioned garage. Definitely run LeafSpy on it before buying.
 
I doubt this place will let me. They didn't have a clue what I was talking about when I even mentioned battery degradation. Just a small used car place in the midwest that rarely even sees EV's.
 
If the BMS was reset, would it still show that range (in terms of miles)? Temps have been in the 30's here (F).

If I have no way of doing the Leaf Spy thing, can we just drive it on a normal commute and see what type of range we are getting (if they actually let us have it to test for that long)?
 
If the car was driven gently, at low speeds, after a reset, it could still show that much estimated range. At best I think this will shortly be an 11 bar car. At worst, the BMS was reset and it has about 10. You could try doing a range test, I guess, but I'd be worried.
 
The geniuses at this shop wouldn't have a clue how to do a BMS. And it was bought at auction. I doubt anyone reset it before the auction.

No offense, but I'd love to hear from a few others to see if others are as worried as you are.
 
You should definitely run Leaf Spy before hand. Who cares if they let you or not, just take it for a test drive and stick the OBD adapter in when they're not around. Not worth it to take a risk when you can know 100% for sure the condition of the battery.
 
I guess when the "geniuses at the shop" don't know how to do a reset and leftybiker's advice gets discounted you are headed for one hell of a deal. :cool:
 
Tough to know without LeafSpy Ah reading.

The range estimate is consistent with what my later model '13 shows in that temperature and lower, but someone has put non-LRR tires on what I'm now driving skewing my range lower. There is some record of dealers being able to "pump and dump" by temporarily increasing number of bars, but it seems like they can't fake the AmpHr reading. Hopefully this one is over 60.
 
I tried to do a search for what to look for on LeafSpy but couldn't find anything exactly. What should I be looking for as far as battery health is concerned when I get LeafSpy running?
 
hyperionmark said:
What would I even look for on Leaf Spy?

It's simple. Just check the SOC (state of charge), Ahrs, and health. From these data, you'll be able to determine
the overall condition of the battery. If you have more time, you can check the battery cells' conditions. At minimum,
though, are the SOC & Ahrs (full battery available capacity (Ahrs) = Ahrs / SOC).
 
lorenfb said:
hyperionmark said:
What would I even look for on Leaf Spy?

It's simple. Just check the SOC (state of charge), Ahrs, and health. From these data, you'll be able to determine
the overall condition of the battery. If you have more time, you can check the battery cells' conditions. At minimum,
though, are the SOC & Ahrs (full battery available capacity (Ahrs) = Ahrs / SOC).

No, ignore the SOC as it doesn't matter except to show the upper charge limit, which would require the car being tested be fully charged. The SOH is normally the really important figure, but if a BMS reset is suspected, then the AH number is the most important.
 
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