Finally got a Leaf! $5,500

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JCLeaf

Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2016
Messages
6
Location
Arizona
Let me start by saying this forum has been a fantastic resource for prospective buyers. Thank you to everyone who posts and help others around here.

I've been interested in moving to a Leaf for the last year or so after learning about the relatively low prices for used 2011-2012's. My work commute is only 15 miles round trip and our around town driving needs would rarely, if ever, be more than 50 miles in a day. So I've been casually looking for Leafs the last year and more earnestly for the last 3 months.

The great debate for me was whether to go as inexpensive as possible ($5-6k, 2011 SV or SL, higher miles, battery degradation) or slightly higher priced with more bells and whistles ($7-9k, 2012 SL white or silver, heated seats, lower miles, replaced battery or near-winner battery lottery). I've been eyeing the Phoenix listings for a few months (almost no Tucson listings) and a great opportunity came up. I purchased a 2011 SL with QC but no cold weather package from the original owner. Here are the details.

$5,500
2011 Leaf SL blue
80,000 miles
Battery replaced July 2014
Tires replaced at 55k, probably 20-30k left on current tires
Near mint cosmetically on the exterior, like new interior
Tinted

Current battery stats:
10 bars
AHr - 46.38
SOH - 70%
LeafSpy calculates about 75 miles total range at 5.3 mi/kWh

I received it on Monday and have been very happy with the Leaf so far. I understand that battery degradation will be much higher in the Arizona heat but with shipping (I have a great contact for those needing shipping in the SW), title, registration, and running a new electrical line, I'm looking at less than $6,000 total. With almost no maintenance and electricity costing a fraction of gas, this works out pretty well financially even if I buy a new battery in a 4-5 years.

I know many people have longer daily commutes and higher range needs but I write this in part as an encouragement to other prospective buyers to let you know that if you don't need 80-100 miles of range every single day, there are some great deals to be had.
 
Battery replaced July 2014

I assume you mean the 12 volt battery? Otherwise 10 bars would be frightening after just one year with a new pack. Now, as for 75 miles of range...maybe at 30MPH. In more typical driving I think you're looking at more like 50 miles. Congrats on getting a Leaf that fits your needs at a great price.
 
I realize I didn't specify since most purchase/sale discussions seem to revolve around capacity battery replacement date but, yes, the capacity battery was replaced in July 2014, 2+ years ago. There seems to be some consensus around here that high temperatures + miles = battery degradation, so given the higher miles and being in Arizona, the current battery state isn't completely off base.

Also, based on the fantastic charts put together by TonyWilliams (which helped me to determine that even with 8 bars I'll be able to meet my driving needs) and my LeafSpy data, 35-50 mph in town driving at 5.3 miles per kWh efficiency, it doesn't seem to unreasonable to get 75 miles on a full charge.

Again, part of the reason for the post is that these cars revolve around their capacity battery/range but if you do your research and don't need the range of a brand new battery, you can find good deals and save some cash.
 
With my 2014 I can make it the whole work week of 22 miles round trip commutes on one charge at work on Monday and then another before I leave work on Friday, Yes if you shop around you can find some very good deals on used ones. Mine had 16,000 miles on it and a solid 12 bars. It came off lease in Georgia which is a bit cooler than it is here in Tampa Bay and they shipped it to the Tampa Auto Auction so there were no direct transport costs. The free L2 chargers at work are inside the parking garage on the North side so I am expecting to get better battery life than others who charge at home or at public chargers out in the full sun here in Tampa Bay Florida.

It will be nice to see 5.3 however you may get closer to 4.5 unless you drive with that proverbial egg under the accelerator pedal. Until you get some miles under your belt it may be wiser to plan at 4.3 miles per kWh at first.

Enjoy!
 
Enjoy the new ride! It sounds like a good deal. Where else can you get a nicely equipped car in excellent condition for $5,500?

The replacement battery was probably installed before "lizard" chemistry was available so 2 bars in 2 years is not unusual in Phoenix. My 2011 was driven about 1,200 miles per month and lost first 2 bars after a little over 1 year (2nd bar a month after first). Next 2 bars were lost a year later (again a month apart). Replacement battery was down to 11 bars by time of crash. My 2015 still has all 12 bars and will have 30,000 miles by the end of the day tomorrow.

Gerry
 
I'm biased with a 2011, but at least anecdotally, it seems the first LEAFs--ones that came from Japan--have better components and in an odd sense, better build quality... Time will tell but I think you got a fine value... Enjoy...
 
JCLeaf said:
Also, based on the fantastic charts put together by TonyWilliams (which helped me to determine that even with 8 bars I'll be able to meet my driving needs) and my LeafSpy data, 35-50 mph in town driving at 5.3 miles per kWh efficiency, it doesn't seem to unreasonable to get 75 miles on a full charge.

Good that you have done your homework on range.

I keep to the speed limit or below, keep my tires inflated and get 4.4 with my '15.
 
JimSouCal said:
I'm biased with a 2011, but at least anecdotally, it seems the first LEAFs--ones that came from Japan--have better components and in an odd sense, better build quality... Time will tell but I think you got a fine value... Enjoy...

+1

I wish my 2011 had not met its demise. I miss the accelerator pedal response, adjustable headlights, and electric parking brake.

JCLeaf,
I suggest you get the plug-and-play heater disable kit being offered by a Leaf driver in Norway to be able to have fresh air ventilation without having the heating element automatically turn on when the ambient temperature drops below 60F (http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=20446). I installed a temporary resistor to keep the heating element from coming on in my 2011 after being surprised with loss of range when I thought I was only using fresh air ventilation.

Gerry
 
Thanks for the comments and feedback from everyone. I obviously still need more time and miles to determine my true mileage efficiency but with my driving needs this battery should last me many years. So far it has been great to drive and people are impressed with how quiet it is and how inexpensive these used Leafs really are.

I'm looking forward to being a part of this community for many years.
 
Congrats on your "new" used 2011 Leaf. I have a 2011 also. Just passed 60,000 on mine recently.

You might ask the original owner when he last changed the break fluid and when he/she might recommend the next change.

Also ask about the 12 volt battery if it was ever replaced, and if so, when. If your not driving, charging the car a lot, might be a good idea to put the 12 volt on a good charger once in awhile to keep the voltage up. Many threads on the form that discuss this and the importance. I disconnect the 12 volt battery so as not to affect anything else, but you have to re activate any timers for the main battery if you do so.

Enjoy your gasoline free drives!.
 
JimSouCal said:
I'm biased with a 2011, but at least anecdotally, it seems the first LEAFs--ones that came from Japan--have better components and in an odd sense, better build quality... Time will tell but I think you got a fine value... Enjoy...

I feel the same way about the early Leafs (I have one).
His second battery pack was definitely not a "lizard", but he should be in good shape even if he has to buy another one in a couple of years (by that time it should be 30+ kWHr).
 
GerryAZ said:
@JCLeaf,
I suggest you get the plug-and-play heater disable kit being offered by a Leaf driver in Norway to be able to have fresh air ventilation without having the heating element automatically turn on when the ambient temperature drops below 60F (http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=20446). I installed a temporary resistor to keep the heating element from coming on in my 2011 after being surprised with loss of range when I thought I was only using fresh air ventilation.

Gerry

I second that suggestion! The pre-made cable harness works great and is easy to install.
 
Stanton said:
I second that suggestion! The pre-made cable harness works great and is easy to install.

I got mine in about 2 weeks ago, and now that the early mornings are starting to be cold, I guess I should go about installing it. The thing that kills me is when I am running the air conditioning when it's warm outside, that stupid heater will kick on.
 
Durandal said:
Stanton said:
I second that suggestion! The pre-made cable harness works great and is easy to install.

I got mine in about 2 weeks ago, and now that the early mornings are starting to be cold, I guess I should go about installing it. The thing that kills me is when I am running the air conditioning when it's warm outside, that stupid heater will kick on.

The cable harness (on the "off" setting) will stop that. You might want to read my posts in Tor's thread if you want to go with just an "on/off" switch (instead of a 3-way).
 
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