ANutt said:
Thanks for the insights. To clarify, we're replacing the beetle anyway, regardless of what with. So the comparison isn't based on keeping the current setup, but on going to a new(er) vehicle for her commute and errands. In the winter, she tends to warm the car up for 10-15 minutes so it's warm inside, not for the sake of the engine. To me, this is wasteful consumption. So if her commute is more comfortable and efficient at the same time, that's a winner.
I love the climate control functions of my leaf. The car is toasty warm in winter and nice and cool in summer everyday when I leave for work.
ANutt said:
The thought of paying for the car once, and not having to pay for fuel/oil/maintenance is appealing.
Experiencing it is even better!
ANutt said:
I typically buy new and keep for a long time, (1998, 2001, and 2011 vehicles currently (not counting motorcycles; those are toys)), so buying used isn't my favorite approach. When I do, my tendency has always been to look for the best condition vehicle, but some of you have posed some interesting points on the length of the commute and how it opens options for lesser-quality vehicles being up to the task.
With that in mind, is there a known lifespan for the Leaf batteries under normal usage?
I can only speak from my experience. Last November I bought my 2011 SL for just over $8k with 41k miles on the clock. It was from a hot climate and had lost 3 capacity bars. It was still perfectly adequate for my commute and had a range of around 45-60 miles (depending on how I drove it). I will note that the degraded battery did affect the driving experience slightly (through a lack of regenerative braking). This would still be far more than adequate for the use you have described, and I believe it would remain adequate for many years to come.
There is no 'known lifespan' for the batteries and they are very reliable. See http://cleantechnica.com/2015/03/25/99-99-nissan-leaf-batteries-still-operation/
However the battery capacity will reduce somewhat over time. The biggest factor in battery degradation is high ambient temperatures, of which you won't experience too much in Atlanta. People on this forum get caught up in battery capacity reduction, but for a commute as short as yours it will likely remain irrelevant for many many years to come. I 100% concur with Levenkay's post (and would add that you would be much more likely to need a transmission, head gasket or water pump etc etc on a conventional car than a battery on a leaf)
Levenkay said:
I suppose there has to be at least a mathematical chance, however infinitesimal, of your getting some kind of lemon 2011 five-bar-loser-just-outside-the-warranty LEAF that wouldn't make your ten miles in wintertime, after another five or six years. But I'd be comfortable with the odds.
In my opinion you are the perfect candidate for a used Leaf, on the qualification that you plan to keep the car for at least 5 years. If you pick a good one you should have a car that meets your commute needs for many years to some. Where else can you get a top of the line <5yr old car for under $10k? Not to mention that electric is a revolutionary driving experience which in my view far exceeds the driving experience of a combustion engine vehicle. Smooth, clean, quiet, doesn't smell, no more gas stations, instant throttle response etc. I agree with speedski97
speedski97 said:
can't think of a better car for her.
Things to look for:
>A great article on leaf buying http://insideevs.com/used-nissan-leaf-buying-guide/
>For your commute you won't need or use a fast charger so would probably get the best value from a SV. SL has a few more bells and whistles. Don't get the S as you loose too much functionality and save too little.
>Judge the cars you are looking at based on battery capacity as opposed to mileage. The best way to check battery capacity is with an OBDII dongle and the leafSPY application (iPhone or Android). See http://www.electricvehiclewiki.com/Leaf_Spy_Pro#Screen_1 the number you are looking for is the AHr value. Alternately for a more general indication of battery capacity look at the battery segments/bars as shown to the right of the battery state of charge gauge on the dashboard. The first capacity bar loss represents a ~15% loss, while each subsequent bar represents only a ~6.25% loss. Note that there have been a handful of documented instances where dealers have allegedly tampered with this display (the equivalent of rolling the clock back on an odometer for a ICE car).
>Buy 2013 or older to get the 80% charge option. Nissan removed this from 2014 onward due to an EPA technicality. Given your commute you do not want to be charging to 100% and this would lead to unnecessary battery degradation.
>I would look for 10 or 11 capacity bar leafs if I were you. It's painful trying to educate dealers that they are pricing a 9 bar too high given it's battery capacity.
>It goes without saying that you should do your normal due diligence when purchasing a used car - check the carfax arrange a mechanical inspection etc.
I also like burning no gas sitting at a stop light or in rush hour traffic, kind of takes the sting off a already bad situation.
