Am I a good Leaf candidate?

I have a 48-mile round-trip to work, and that is generally all I drive in a day. About half of that is on a 45-55MPH highway, the rest is on a 65MPH freeway. I live in central Ohio, summers typically 80s, winters can get sub-zero, but generally milder.

With an L2 charger, this would be a no-brainer, but the problem is I don't think my current electrical system in my home is capable of taking another 240V circuit to the garage without major electrical work and probably a service upgrade, and I don't have the stomach or the budget for that right now. I'm not entirely certain that's the case, if there's a way to determine that without having an electrician come out and check, I'm all ears. But if I'm going to go the L2 route, I'm going to do it right, no sense cutting corners when it comes to electricity.

So can I get away with L1 charging a Leaf with that sort of driving? Assuming a "normal" day where I drive the 48 miles and get home around 5:00, plug in immediately, and charge until 8:30 or 9:00 the next morning, is that sufficient? I plan to make very, very light use of climate control, and I always drive my Prius in ECO mode, so I'm used to that. I've read that charging from 0 to full on 110V is about 20 hours, and I assumed that is a linear charging time in my calculations below, is that a faulty assumption?

Extra info:

I have come up with a few scenarios that cover possible days of driving:

Scenario A
24 home -> work
13 work -> bowling
19 bowling -> home
56 miles total
Home at 10:30, leave at 8:30 = 10 hours charge
10 hours charge @110V = 50% charge (42 miles back)
Leave house with approx. 70 miles range (work is 48 RT)

Scenario B
24 home -> work
24 work -> home
48 miles total
Home at 5:00, leave at 8:30 = 15.5 hours charge
15.5 hours charge @110V = 77% charge (64 miles back)
Leave house with full charge (84 miles range) (work is 48 RT)

Scenario C
24 home -> work
29 work -> YMCA (meet the kids for swim practice)
7 YMCA -> home
60 miles total
Home at 7:00, leave at 8:30 = 13.5 hours charge
13.5 hours charge @110V = 67% charge (56 miles back)
Leave home with nearly full charge (80 miles range) (work is 48 RT)

Scenario D
24 home -> work
24 work -> home
Home for 4 hours charging (16 miles back) before EMERGENCY!
6.5 home -> data center
6.5 data center -> home
Home at midnight, leave at 10:00 = 10 hours charging
10 hours @110V = 50% charge (42 miles back)
Leave home with nearly full charge (81 miles range) (work is 48 RT)

Scenario E
24 home -> work
24 work -> home
Home at 5:00, charge for 2 hours (8 miles back)
10 mile round trip to school for Scouts
Home at 8:00, leave at 8:30 = 12.5 hours charging
12.5 hours @ 110V = 62% charge (52 miles back)
Leave home with full charge (84 miles range) (work is 48 RT)

Crazy day
24 home -> work
18 work -> data center (something blew up)
9 data center -> home (working from home rest of day)
forgot to plug in, derp
8 mile round trip to grocery store (we need milk!)
10 mile round trip to school (it’s also Pack Meeting night)
Plug in (finally) at 8:00, leave next morning at 8:30 = 12.5 hours charging
13.5 hours @110V = 62% charge (52 miles back)
Leave home with 67 miles range (work is 48 RT)

You're going to get people telling you that "L1 is fine", but I generally don't advise anyone drive an EV without installing L2 @home, especially now that L2 charging times are significantly better with the newer Leafs (I have a 2011).
I think you could make most of your early scenarios (even in winter) for many years, but you will definitely need access to L2 if you intend on covering your "emergency" scenarios (especially in winter).
As a reference, I'm down to ~60 miles range (mixed road types) in the winter WITHOUT using heat on a "3 bar loser" battery; the newer batteries SHOULD perform better, but you can see that I'll be glad to get my (free) warranty replacement later this year.

Even if you go with L1, you'll want to make sure the circuit and outlet can handle the usage. L2 will serve you much better, and they're getting less expensive. Why not have several electricians come and give you a free estimate? Then you'll have a better idea of what you'll need and what the going rates are. Also, check out http://www.plugshare.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for stations around home and work.

You are likely setting yourself up for failure (or a lot of frustration) without L2 charging at home with this usage pattern. With L2, it's a no-brainer. If you decide to go ahead without L2 at home, make sure to get a LEAF with the DCQC port. I would get an electrician to evaluate the 240v situation in your home. Even an L2 at reduced amperage would be enough to get the job done in your situation.

A 15-ampere, 240-volt outlet (like a room air conditioner) with an EVSE Upgrade unit set on 12 amperes would serve your usage pattern fine. If your electrical system could accommodate more, an EVSE Upgrade can be set for up to 16 or 20 amperes, depending upon the model year of the original Nissan unit that is upgraded. Please look at evseupgrade.com for more information. You will not get enough charge each day on 120 volts to sustain your driving needs, especially in cold weather. Your usage pattern is ideal for a LEAF as long as you have L2 charging available at home.

Gerry

deltwalrus said:

...but the problem is I don't think my current electrical system in my home is capable of taking another 240V circuit to the garage without major electrical work and probably a service upgrade, and I don't have the stomach or the budget for that right now. I'm not entirely certain that's the case, if there's a way to determine that without having an electrician come out and check, I'm all ears.

Click to expand...

A picture of your breaker box might help.
Mine was basically "full," but it supported "tandem" breakers on the bottom 10.
So the electricians were able to add some tandems to combine breakers pretty easily.
Not all panels support tandems, but you can usually tell by the diagram on the panel (if it's there).

The other issue for cost will be the run itself.
Sometimes, the run in a garage (if your panel is in the garage) can be really easy and relatively inexpensive. But if you have a long run needing conduit, etc.., it might get pricey.

desiv

I meant to post a picture earlier, but forgot how to computer briefly (been a long weekend...) I do have some tandem breakers in there, my main concern is do I have the amperage to support another 30A or even another 15A worth of load. I reached out to a local electric service company, hopefully they do free estimates.

Looks like one of these might go nicely into that last spot:

http://www.amazon.com/Square-Schneider-Electric-QO140CP-Single-Pole/dp/B00002N7MG" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

But again, can I handle the load... I guess only a qualified electrician can say for sure. I'm not terrible at home handywork, but I know better than to dive into something I know little about, and whereas other home-improvement disasters can make a mess, electric disasters cause fires and death.

I'm not an electrician, but I'd say it's possible with that panel, probably even likely.
I also had 3 240v breakers (rangetop, oven, and dryer) and now have 4.

Just noticed your latest post..
I wouldn't think that would work. That looks like a 40A 120v to me (again, not an electrician, but it's single pole).
Your panel supports tandems, so good sign there..

Good luck..

desiv
(Also, I think it's highly unlikely that I'll be cooking with the range and oven AND doing clothes AND charging the car all at the same time.. So I'm not too worried.. ;-) )

Looks like the main switch is labeled "150", so I'm guessing that means I have 100A service right now. I probably have to have AEP upgrade my service to 200A, then I need to replace that main breaker? Does anyone know if electric companies charge to upgrade service like this, or are they just billing you for the extra energy you use on that upgraded service? And does the provider have to swap out that main breaker, or can I (read: qualified electrician) do so?

Sorry for all the questions, but people here seem much more knowledgeable and friendly than most other forums.

deltwalrus said:

Looks like the main switch is labeled "150", so I'm guessing that means I have 100A service right now. I probably have to have AEP upgrade my service to 200A, then I need to replace that main breaker? Does anyone know if electric companies charge to upgrade service like this, or are they just billing you for the extra energy you use on that upgraded service? And does the provider have to swap out that main breaker, or can I (read: qualified electrician) do so?

Sorry for all the questions, but people here seem much more knowledgeable and friendly than most other forums.

Click to expand...

Can you post a photo of the main breaker or main switch? The breaker in the Amazon link is only 120-volt and would not work. I suspect you can combine a couple of the 20-ampere single-pole breakers on a new tandem breaker to free up a 2-pole slot for a 15 or 20 ampere 240-volt circuit to charge the car.

Gerry

Its a wattage question first then whole house service and then breakers last:

Mentioned 3 240 devices in the house:

1. Range Stove/Oven:
Bake Element, about 2500 watts
Preheat/broil element 3500 watts
8" cooktop element 2600
6" cooktop element 1300 watts
Likely worst case but common would be a total watts of broil and 2 burners = 3500+2600+1300 = 7,400 watts

2. Electric Dryer - 5,600 watts

3. Something Else? 2000 watts

Add these up before the base draw of the house say 700 +7,400+5600+2,000 = 15,700 watts
If you ran all these at the same time then you would have to have 200 amp service that in theory could deliver 24,000 watts.

You would not be able to run all 3 at the same time on 100 amp service unless you only cooked on 1 burner, ran dryer and 3rd item

A 100-ampere service will handle 24kW (240X100=24,000). A 200-ampere service will handle 48kW (240X200=48,000). With only 3 existing 240-volt loads, there is a good chance of having enough capacity to add a 15 or 20 ampere, 240-volt circuit for the car.

Gerry

Most of your trips would be supported by 120 volt charging easily enough. I live in Upstate NY, and L-1 charging is all I have at home. My commute was 43 miles (I'm now retired), although I usually took a lower-speed route than you use. (I suggest you go 45MPH wherever you can!) If you are willing to leave the car plugged in when not in use in Winter, it will work for all but the coldest weather. You do have one more option, if your garage is near but not at load capacity: install a dedicated 20 amp, 120 volt circuit, get the EVSE Upgrade, and set that unit for 16 amp 120 volt charging. That should do the trick for your Winter needs, although not with a large margin of comfort.

It is hard to tell from the picture, but if the 150-ampere service disconnect is actually a main breaker, then you probably have 150-ampere service (not a common size service). I strongly suggest you have a qualified electrician look at the panel and measure your actual load because there is a really good chance that you could add a 15 or 20 ampere 240-volt circuit.

Gerry

you probably have 150-ampere service

Click to expand...

I called my electric provider, they offer 100A and 200A (and up), so it's definitely 100A.

With a 48 mile RT in Ohio I'd say the OP would be a near ideal candidate for a next-gen Volt, especially if it comes in at $30k MSRP or less, and could skip the 240V circuit upgrade. Or take the money they save upfront compare to a LEAF SV or SL, and use that to do the electrical upgrade. They'll burn some gas, but won't need to worry about whether they can run the heat/defrost in winter and still be able to get to work and back. Is this going to be the OP's sole car, or just one of them?

It would be my commuter, my wife has a giant gas-guzzler that is the kid wagon.