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nomatterwhat

Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2014
Messages
12
Hey All,

Couple of questions for you all. I am totally new on leasing. Looks like with negotiations I can
get a 2015 S model for $249.00 a month, 2 year lease with 0 due at signing. I am in Georgia.

Do the $7500 federal tax credits come off the price making it more appealing to
do a buyout at the end of the lease? If I did do a buyout could I turn
around and sell or would I be crazy upside-down? I like the concept
of a lease but I already have a regular car so don't need another $400-$500
car payment. I would totally max out the 12k mileage allotment per year. Can you
negotiate more mileage per year? What would the buyout be? How do the state
tax credits work? How do both the federal and state incentives differ lease
vs buying is probably the overall question.

If I could get a higher end model than the S is it worth it for say $50 more per
month?

My work is 39.7 miles from home, assuming I level 1 charge for 7-8 hours a day at work
how many miles could I go/remaining, my driving is mainly highway 70-75 mph?

My work is near this intersection,

3100 Cumberland Blvd SE, Atlanta, GA 30339

Can someone give me an analyze whether nearby options for charging are good or horrible?

Thanks,

Greg
 
The $7500 Federal show up as a reduction of Capital (They treat it as a down payment on the lease). The Federal credit goes to the Buyer of the car. On a lease would be Nissan Credit .

The $5000 State Credit goes to you, you file for it and you get a credit on your State (GA) income taxes it is NOT a refundable Credit. But it can be carried for 5 years (I think).

At the end of your lease, you turn it in, or buy out the lease, You will pay the TAVT (Title tax) again, when you do the buy out. Last legislative session there was a bill to Kill or reduce the GA $5000 credit, to something less, It will probably come up again when the legislative is back in session, I would guess it would go down to $3K starting in 1/1/2016 (But you never know what the legislative is going to do.) I would not figure on buying out the lease then attempting to sell it as a used Leaf, there is not much of a market for used leafs in Georgia. Most of the Off-Lease Leafs seem to be shipped out of state, to states where they don't have the Tax incentives.

The Net Price difference between a new leaf and 2/3 year old leaf, mean no one is going to pay for a used one, at the lease return price. New Leaf $30,000 (s) - (7500+5000) = 17,500 Used/Out of Lease Leaf = $12K - 15K Why would someone buy a used one for 12/15K when they can get a new one for $17.5 ??


Plan to get a L2 Charger for Home .. 80mile per day on Highway 70/75mph will kill your range, Plan on doing Full Charge, over night and some charging @ work,
Does your work have a L1 Outlet? You just can't plug into any random outlet. Because of the draw of power it almost needs to be a dedicated outlet, you never know what else is running on the line. Garage outlets tend to be long runs with many outlets, lights, etc on them. They are not intended to be used to charge EV's

http://www.plugshare.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; show all the charger that are around your office. With a Leaf and a EV Plates you can drive in the HOV lanes in GA without a passenger.

BTW: what Interstate are you using that you think you can do 70/75 mph in Atlanta at or near normal communing hours?
 
flyonpa said:
The $7500 Federal show up as a reduction of Capital (They treat it as a down payment on the lease). The Federal credit goes to the Buyer of the car. On a lease would be Nissan Credit .

The $5000 State Credit goes to you, you file for it and you get a credit on your State (GA) income taxes it is NOT a refundable Credit. But it can be carried for 5 years (I think).

At the end of your lease, you turn it in, or buy out the lease, You will pay the TAVT (Title tax) again, when you do the buy out. Last legislative session there was a bill to Kill or reduce the GA $5000 credit, to something less, It will probably come up again when the legislative is back in session, I would guess it would go down to $3K starting in 1/1/2016 (But you never know what the legislative is going to do.) I would not figure on buying out the lease then attempting to sell it as a used Leaf, there is not much of a market for used leafs in Georgia. Most of the Off-Lease Leafs seem to be shipped out of state, to states where they don't have the Tax incentives.

The Net Price difference between a new leaf and 2/3 year old leaf, mean no one is going to pay for a used one, at the lease return price. New Leaf $30,000 (s) - (7500+5000) = 17,500 Used/Out of Lease Leaf = $12K - 15K Why would someone buy a used one for 12/15K when they can get a new one for $17.5 ??


Plan to get a L2 Charger for Home .. 80mile per day on Highway 70/75mph will kill your range, Plan on doing Full Charge, over night and some charging @ work,
Does your work have a L1 Outlet? You just can't plug into any random outlet. Because of the draw of power it almost needs to be a dedicated outlet, you never know what else is running on the line. Garage outlets tend to be long runs with many outlets, lights, etc on them. They are not intended to be used to charge EV's

http://www.plugshare.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; show all the charger that are around your office. With a Leaf and a EV Plates you can drive in the HOV lanes in GA without a passenger.

BTW: what Interstate are you using that you think you can do 70/75 mph in Atlanta at or near normal communing hours?


Thanks for the help. Work has L1 chargers and across the street at the mall has L2 chargers. There is also a Nissan dealership up the road. My main concern with buying vs leasing is new technology. I am also concerned about exceeding the 12k mileage allowance and paying .10 or .15 cents per mile. Perhaps I could negotiate 15k or 18k yearly.

So if I buy and say I get 30k, this one dealership not near me has 12% off MSRP.

http://www.northbaynissan.com/new/Nissan/2015-Nissan-LEAF-Petaluma-3e2438440a0a006426268e14dff78bde.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

So that's 34,850 - 12% = $30,668 minus the NMAC credit for financing with $3500 cash back, so net $27168 before tax, tag and title, 6% for the new TAVT. Probably 30k out the door I'm guessing. I would get the $7500 tax credit, which I need given my income level. I always seem to pay 4-5k each year in taxes. Payment would probably be $450-$500 for 5 years.

Alternative is a lease, no money down, I would shoot for a 24 month lease, looks to be about $300 a month for a 2015 SV model. Mileage would be concern but I have never leased so unsure about if it's taboo to just pay mileage fees. I could easily hit 20k a year. I feel the upside here is if a 2017 model has 150 mile range the value of my purchased asset I bought will take a huge hit.

Any thoughts?

Greg
 
There is nothing wrong or odd about paying over-mileage fees, but you may be able to negotiate more miles for nothing, or for less than the fees would be. Do the math first and see.
 
You should know that the combination of range and speed you will be asking for from the car is at the edge of its capability in hot or cold weather, and not far from it even with no climate control use. A two year lease is definitely what you want (you can always extend it when it ends), but also plan on charging every day at work in weather that requires heat (especially) or A/C. Or you can slow down.
 
nomatterwhat said:
Thanks for the help. Work has L1 chargers and across the street at the mall has L2 chargers. There is also a Nissan dealership up the road. My main concern with buying vs leasing is new technology. I am also concerned about exceeding the 12k mileage allowance and paying .10 or .15 cents per mile. Perhaps I could negotiate 15k or 18k yearly.

So if I buy and say I get 30k, this one dealership not near me has 12% off MSRP.

http://www.northbaynissan.com/new/Nissan/2015-Nissan-LEAF-Petaluma-3e2438440a0a006426268e14dff78bde.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

So that's 34,850 - 12% = $30,668 minus the NMAC credit for financing with $3500 cash back, so net $27168 before tax, tag and title, 6% for the new TAVT. Probably 30k out the door I'm guessing. I would get the $7500 tax credit, which I need given my income level. I always seem to pay 4-5k each year in taxes. Payment would probably be $450-$500 for 5 years.

Alternative is a lease, no money down, I would shoot for a 24 month lease, looks to be about $300 a month for a 2015 SV model. Mileage would be concern but I have never leased so unsure about if it's taboo to just pay mileage fees. I could easily hit 20k a year. I feel the upside here is if a 2017 model has 150 mile range the value of my purchased asset I bought will take a huge hit.

Any thoughts?

Greg
LEAF is one of those cases where leasing makes sense. Understand that a lease is a hedge against numerous unknowns including depreciation track. It's best to anticipate the excess mileage and buy the appropriate mileage in the lease. My 3yr deal was on an SV, lease factors (cost of money) were less than the S at the time. Expect an additional $10/mo for the 15K/yr, another $10/mo to extend the basic warranty to match the 36mo/45K miles. If your LEAF is a winner, buy out the lease in 2-3 years. If Nissan does the math correctly, the buyout should be roughly the wholesale/auction value so it would be a poor choice to toss them the keys & walk away at the end.
 
You should know that the combination of range and speed you will be asking for from the car is at the edge of its capability in hot or cold weather, and not far from it even with no climate control use. A two year lease is definitely what you want (you can always extend it when it ends), but also plan on charging every day at work in weather that requires heat (especially) or A/C. Or you can slow down.

But they said they can charge at work. So we're talking about 40mi. trips, not 80mi.

The $7,500 federal tax credit involved taxes and therefore can be confusing. Firstly, this is a credit, not a deduction. So when you get all done with your normal taxes, there is a line item for the amount of tax you owe, and from there you reduce it by the amount that has already been withheld and possibly have a refund or owe some. But the credit cannot be carried forward, and you can only take credit up to the amount of the tax that you owe. So, if your total taxes for the year is $5,000, you would only be able to reduce your taxes by $5,000. This is not the amount you find you have to pay in when you file, it's the total tax liability.

If you do not have $7,500 of federal tax liability, often times the leasing company can use the credit. And they will often reduce the lease by that amount. So that would be a way to take advantage of the credit, even if you can't do so personally.
 
kikngas said:
You should know that the combination of range and speed you will be asking for from the car is at the edge of its capability in hot or cold weather, and not far from it even with no climate control use. A two year lease is definitely what you want (you can always extend it when it ends), but also plan on charging every day at work in weather that requires heat (especially) or A/C. Or you can slow down.

But they said they can charge at work. So we're talking about 40mi. trips, not 80mi.

The $7,500 federal tax credit involved taxes and therefore can be confusing. Firstly, this is a credit, not a deduction. So when you get all done with your normal taxes, there is a line item for the amount of tax you owe, and from there you reduce it by the amount that has already been withheld and possibly have a refund or owe some. But the credit cannot be carried forward, and you can only take credit up to the amount of the tax that you owe. So, if your total taxes for the year is $5,000, you would only be able to reduce your taxes by $5,000. This is not the amount you find you have to pay in when you file, it's the total tax liability.

If you do not have $7,500 of federal tax liability, often times the leasing company can use the credit. And they will often reduce the lease by that amount. So that would be a way to take advantage of the credit, even if you can't do so personally.

With Some planning you can generate federal tax liability,
Sell Stock(s) Take Gains. Pay Tax
Convert IRA to Roth IRA, Pay Tax.
Some 401K's allow for In-service Conversions to Roth 401K's, Pay Tax

The IRA/401K to Roth allow for TaxFree growth on all the money,

You can use the credit now that would be lost to not pay the tax in the future.
 
But they said they can charge at work. So we're talking about 40mi. trips, not 80mi.

40 miles at 70-75 miles an hour, with A/C or heater on, is near the limit of the car's capability unless measures are taken to extend range. And I don't assume that available work charging is the same as dead-reliable work charging...
 
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