Costs/Recommendations for installing 240V charger in garage

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dgalvan

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2014
Messages
82
Location
Woodland Hills, CA (Los Angeles)
Anyone have costs/recommendations for installing a 220/240V outlet in a garage that doesn't already have one? Thinking of getting a NEMA outlet installed and then just plugging the HCS-40 Clipper Creek EVSE into it.

What should it cost me to have an electrician install a 240V outlet in the garage? (there is already a sub-panel in the garage) Are we talking $200? $1000? Ballpark?

Also, LADWP offers discounted rates if you install a separate Time-Of-Use (TOU) meter. Does anyone have experience having this done? Does it add significant cost to the install?

Also, an recommendations for licensed electricians that charge a fair price in the San Fernando Valley?

(I'm in Woodland Hills.)

Thanks in advance for any commentary.
 
dgalvan said:
Anyone have costs/recommendations for installing a 220/240V outlet in a garage that doesn't already have one? Thinking of getting a NEMA outlet installed and then just plugging the HCS-40 Clipper Creek EVSE into it.

What should it cost me to have an electrician install a 240V outlet in the garage? (there is already a sub-panel in the garage) Are we talking $200? $1000? Ballpark?

Also, LADWP offers discounted rates if you install a separate Time-Of-Use (TOU) meter. Does anyone have experience having this done? Does it add significant cost to the install?

Also, an recommendations for licensed electricians that charge a fair price in the San Fernando Valley?

(I'm in Woodland Hills.)

Thanks in advance for any commentary.
Double check with the LADWP before you go with an EVSE that uses an outlet vs. a hard-wired EVSE. Back when I installed mine, I was told it HAD to be hard-wired, and that if I used an outlet, I would forfeit the entire rebate from LADWP for installing an EVSE (at that time, it was up to $2K and included labor...last time I checked it was $750 and did not cover labor). A year later my brother had an EVSE installed, and they let him install one that used an outlet, but the installer had to staple the pigtail to the wall so that it would be "permanent".

As far as the installation quote, the cost should be pretty low if you're only running an outlet from a sub-panel (figure a couple hours work plus parts and permit), assuming the sub-panel is able to handle the additional load. Adding the TOU meter will roughly double the installation cost, but that's just a guess since it depends on where the TOU goes. I stopped recommending the electrician I used because he flaked out too many times on other calls, which really bothered me. Make sure you get a few quotes, both with and without a TOU meter being installed.

It's debatable whether you'll save money or not with a separate TOU meter with LADWP rates being relatively low, especially if you don't do all your charging at night. One added benefit of the additional meter is that you will be able to see how much electricity you're consuming.

Hope this helps.
 
mikeEmike said:
Double check with the LADWP before you go with an EVSE that uses an outlet vs. a hard-wired EVSE. Back when I installed mine, I was told it HAD to be hard-wired, and that if I used an outlet, I would forfeit the entire rebate from LADWP for installing an EVSE (at that time, it was up to $2K and included labor...last time I checked it was $750 and did not cover labor). A year later my brother had an EVSE installed, and they let him install one that used an outlet, but the installer had to staple the pigtail to the wall so that it would be "permanent".

As far as the installation quote, the cost should be pretty low if you're only running an outlet from a sub-panel (figure a couple hours work plus parts and permit), assuming the sub-panel is able to handle the additional load. Adding the TOU meter will roughly double the installation cost, but that's just a guess since it depends on where the TOU goes. I stopped recommending the electrician I used because he flaked out too many times on other calls, which really bothered me. Make sure you get a few quotes, both with and without a TOU meter being installed.

It's debatable whether you'll save money or not with a separate TOU meter with LADWP rates being relatively low, especially if you don't do all your charging at night. One added benefit of the additional meter is that you will be able to see how much electricity you're consuming.

Thanks for the info!

I tried to call LADWP EV department, but only got voicemail. So I left a message and they say they'll get back to me in "5-6 days". I'll definitely ask them about the permanent vs. pigtail/outlet install. I want the outlet just in case we decide to move at some point, then I can just unplug the EVSE and take it with me and not have to lose on the ~$700 cost.

Yes current rebate from LADWP just covers the cost of the EVSE up to $750. If you elect to install a separate TOU meter, you get an additional $250 credit on your bill, plus the 2.5 cent per kWh discount when charging on base hours (after 8 pm).

Meanwhile I'm shopping electricians. Started with Powell Electric (they have those TV ads: "Call Powell Electric, We'll Fix it in a Flash!"), but they get terrible reviews on Yelp. Everyone says they are WAY overpriced, and I now know they charge you $70 just to come out and give you an estimate! (that goes toward the project if you go with them . . . but still). Yelp recommends RG Electric, which gives free estimates, so I'll start with them. Belco Electric also gets good Yelp reviews.
 
I would never call an company that runs ads on TV. If nothing else, you may want to try Angie's list. I got a TOU meter installed back in 2011 with a ~30' conduit run from the back of the home to the garage for like $2200, but got a $2000 rebate from LADWP.
 
dgalvan said:
Thanks for the info!

I tried to call LADWP EV department, but only got voicemail. So I left a message and they say they'll get back to me in "5-6 days". I'll definitely ask them about the permanent vs. pigtail/outlet install. I want the outlet just in case we decide to move at some point, then I can just unplug the EVSE and take it with me and not have to lose on the ~$700 cost.

Yes current rebate from LADWP just covers the cost of the EVSE up to $750. If you elect to install a separate TOU meter, you get an additional $250 credit on your bill, plus the 2.5 cent per kWh discount when charging on base hours (after 8 pm).

Meanwhile I'm shopping electricians. Started with Powell Electric (they have those TV ads: "Call Powell Electric, We'll Fix it in a Flash!"), but they get terrible reviews on Yelp. Everyone says they are WAY overpriced, and I now know they charge you $70 just to come out and give you an estimate! (that goes toward the project if you go with them . . . but still). Yelp recommends RG Electric, which gives free estimates, so I'll start with them. Belco Electric also gets good Yelp reviews.
I have probably called that EV number a couple dozen times and not ONCE did they ever pick up the phone. They will eventually return your voicemail message. I had better luck with emailing them, but if you do go the voicemail route, try not to miss the callback. :)

The bigger benefit of a pigtail is that it is portable, so you can easily take it with you if you're going somewhere where you have access to the same outlet, or have the proper adapter. Removing a hard-wired EVSE (in case you move and wanted to take it with you) is not very difficult unless you're not comfortable about working with electricity. Even so, it would take a qualified person about 5 minutes. Hard-wired EVSEs have the additional benefits of being safer since there's no exposed outlet and plug, but that can be remedied with a locking outlet cover if there was any concern there (e.g. curious kids). Hard-wired EVSEs can also be installed outdoors, but that doesn't apply in your case. I think either option is fine in your case.

If you're going with the option that gets you the 2.5c/kWh credit, I believe you will need to run a separate service line to the EV TOU meter, which can get very expensive, especially if it's underground. Also keep in mind that there is a monthly service charge for the TOU meter ($8/month, I think), plus there is a much greater likelihood of LADWP screwing up your bill, repeatedly. Going with the whole house TOU option might cause your overall bill to go up if you use a lot of electricity during peak hours in the summertime (AC, pool, etc) unless you have solar panels. You don't get the 2.5c/kWh credit, but you qualify for the $750 rebate. I'm not sure if it's still applicable (since my LADWP bill is currently screwed up), but there's a cap on that 2.5c/kWh credit per month...something like $12.50/month max. Here's the link to the doc in case you don't have it already: LADWP EV Level 2 Charging and Meter Options

Yeah, I've seen the Powell Electric commercials. My hunch is that they're expensive if they can afford to advertise so much. Personally, I like going with licensed electricians who does the work themselves, rather than a big company. Sorry I can't be of more assistance coming up with a recommendation. That guy I used to use has lost out on a lot of potential business.
 
Valdemar said:
I got a TOU meter installed back in 2011 with a ~30' conduit run from the back of the home to the garage for like $2200, but got a $2000 rebate from LADWP.
I think the requirements have changed since then. I believe you are now forced to run a separate service line from the street directly to the EV TOU meter if you want to use a separate meter for your EV.
 
mikeEmike said:
Valdemar said:
I got a TOU meter installed back in 2011 with a ~30' conduit run from the back of the home to the garage for like $2200, but got a $2000 rebate from LADWP.
I think the requirements have changed since then. I believe you are now forced to run a separate service line from the street directly to the EV TOU meter if you want to use a separate meter for your EV.

In my case they just tapped into the overhead feed wires right at the service entry.
 
mikeEmike said:
Also keep in mind that there is a monthly service charge for the TOU meter ($8/month, I think).

I thought they no longer require it, but not positive. I since moved to SCE land, oh, the horrors...
 
Valdemar said:
In my case they just tapped into the overhead feed wires right at the service entry.
Cool. If that works in the OPs case, that makes the 2.5c credit option a lot more economically feasible. In my case, I was allowed to run the submeter off of the main panel and still get the 2.5c credit so I went with that option.

Valdemar said:
mikeEmike said:
Also keep in mind that there is a monthly service charge for the TOU meter ($8/month, I think).
I thought they no longer require it, but not positive. I since moved to SCE land, oh, the horrors...
To be honest, I can't tell you because my billing is so screwed up. I have received one bill in the last year, and of course it was wrong, but that meter charge was still on there, even though it was only for two months.
 
If my memory serves me well they were charging but also giving a credit at the same time. But who knows if that was right, as you say their billing system got screwed up big time by the upgrade.
 
Yes, to qualify LADWP will install a totally new TOU and utility meter just for the EV service. This meter (TOU) will have its own weather head and be fed off the main lines tapped off the mains that come down from your main line. If you're underground or subterranean then they'll tap off that line.

In the end I got the full $2k rebate but it took 8 months. An electrician (i know of 2 here locally in the valley) should run around $500-900 depending on length of run, permits, bldg construction, etc,etc,etc,etc..

Good luck!

P.S. if you decide to go the LADWP route.. prepare for a wild ride... :evil:
 
I finally got on the phone with the LADWP EV department this week. They were very helpful. So helpful in fact that I could hardly get a word in edgewise, and I ended up forgetting to ask about the hard-install vs. outlet-install. Might call back about that.

------------------
The current incentives:
1. Rebate is up to $750 for the cost of the EVSE (does not include labor for install, just the cost of the EVSE itself.) They say it takes 3-6 months to get the $750 rebate once the application is in. Any cost of installing a 240v line in the garage is out-of-pocket.

2. You can get a 2.5 cent/kWh discount on the base rate, and a one-time $250 credit on your bill, if you decide to install an additional main electrical panel with a time-of-use (TOU) meter that is just for the circuit on which the EV is charged. The cost of installing the entirely new, second main panel on your house or garage is out-of-pocket. (So the electricity from the grid comes to one new panel for just the 240V line in your garage, and one old panel that handles everything else for your house).

3. It is also possible to switch from a tiered rate plan (which I am currently on) to a TOU plan. Switching types of plan is free, and LADWP doesn't charge you to switch your existing meter to a TOU meter.
------------------

Regarding #1:
I just had Roy from RG Electric out to give me an estimate on installing a 240V line. I do have a sub-panel in my garage, however the conductor (wire) connecting that sub-panel to the main panel on the house (where I connect to the grid) is only rated for 40 amps. Roy said he said he's been dinged before because when an inspector came to look over the install of an EVSE, the EVSE specs said it was rated for 30-40 amps (even though it was a "30 amp EVSE"), and the conductor coming to the sub-panel in the garage was only rated for 40 amps, so he had to re-do the job with 50 amp conductor because wiring has to be rated for 10 amps above what could possibly drawn. Since then, he always makes sure everything is rated for 50 amps, so there are no issues in having an EVSE that can draw 30-40 amps.

Since my sub-panel is connected to the main panel via only 40-amp-rated conductor, he's recommending just bringing new 50-amp conductor from the main panel on the back of the house all the way to the garage, not going through the garage sub-panel at all. He would use outdoor conduit along the roof (it's a slab house so can't route underneath). Probably a total length of about 80 ft total from main panel to EVSE.

If the cost estimate comes back at under $500, I might do it soon. If higher, then I probably won't do it for a while, as I don't REALLY need Level 2 charging at home with my current ability to Level 2 charge at work for free. Still, it'd be nice to have for added flexibility, and that $750 rebate won't be around forever.

UPDATE 5/15/2014: Estimate for the above came in at $2250. As such I will get a couple more estimates, but if the other estimates are similarly high I will just stick with Level 1 charging at home for the foreseeable future. Level 1 is currently meeting my needs, and it's not worth $2k+ for the added flexibility of Level 2 at home when I have Level 1 & 2 charging available for free at work.

------------------
Regarding #2:
(installing the TOU meter and a second panel). Is it "worth it"? Probably not.

Pluses: If you take this option, you get a 2.5 cent/kWh discount off the base rate on that circuit (8pm - 10 am M-F, All day on weekends). The base rate for a TOU plan is 12.5 cents/kWh, so with the discount I'd pay 10 cents/kWh on nights and weekends. Plus the $250 one time credit on my LADWP bill.

Minuses: The install of the new main electrical panel is completely out-of-pocket. The LADWP guy said he's had customers tell him that installation cost is AT LEAST $1500, with $3000 and up being more typical. In addition, there is apparently an $8/month service fee from LADWP to have a second TOU meter.
Roy from RG Electric come gave me an estimate, and he said that he had done this for another customer for $3k. Both the LADWP guy and Roy told me they thought it wasn't worth the cost of the install just to get the 2.5 cent discount.

Question: How long before the savings from the 2.5 cent/kWh discount covers the cost of the TOU new panel install?

Answer:
At least 7.4 years, as much as 49.8 years, depending on assumptions. UPDATE 5/15/2014: Most likely range is at least 16.3 years, as much as 49.8 years, due to likely $3k cost of separate panel/TOU install.
Conclusion: I will probably not opt to get the second main panel installed just to get the discount. There are other things I would do with the ~$3k install cost that would yield greater benefits. (ex: put it toward cost of solar panels, either for electricity or pool heating.)

My math:
For the shortest payback period, I assume:
-Cost of new panel and TOU install: $1500. (UPDATE 5/15/2014: With a $2250 estimate for just installing a 240V line WITHOUT a new panel for TOU, I think $1500 is a gross underestimate for my situation. Only the analysis based on a $3000 install estimates likely to be close to accurate.)
-I use half of a full charge every day at home.
(My work commute is 44 miles roundtrip, and a roundtrip depletes about 43% of my battery).
So I'd charge 10.5 kWh every day. (21 kWh divided by 2) This is an overestimate, since in reality I charge mainly at work for free, and only need to charge at home on the weekends. The less I charge at home the less I'd be saving with the 2.5 cent/kWh discount, which would increase the payback period. But let's go with this overestimate assumption to get the minimum payback period for someone who has my same commute but is not lucky enough to be able to charge at work for free.)

How much electricity would I use to charge the car every month?
10.5 kWh per day x 30 days per month = 315 kWh/month

How much would it cost to charge the car every month?
Tier 1: $44.10 per month. @ 14 cents/kWh
Tier 2: $53.55 per month. @ 17 cents/kWh
TOU base: $31.50 per month @ 10 cents/kWh, + $8 per month separate TOU meter fee = $39.50 per month.

How much would I be SAVING each month by getting the 2.5 cent/kWh discount?

Compared to Tier 1: $4.60 per month
($44.10 - $39.50)

Compared to Tier 2: $14.05 per month
($53.55 - $39.50)

So how long before that savings cancels out the $1500 I spent to install a new panel?

(($1500 cost of install - $250 bill credit) / $4.60 per month) = 272 months = 22.6 years

($1500 cost of install - $250 bill credit) / $14.05 per month) = 89 months = 7.4 years

So at LEAST 7.4 years. UPDATE 5/15/14: THIS IS LIKELY A GROSS UNDERESTIMATE GIVEN $1500 IS UNREALISTICALLY LOW INSTALL COST FOR A SEPARATE TOU METER PANEL IN MY SITUATION.

How long if the new panel cost $3000 to install? (MORE LIKELY)

(($3000 cost of install - $250 bill credit) / $4.60 per month) = 598 months = 49.8 years

(($3000 cost of install - $250 bill credit) / $14.05 per month) = 196 months = 16.3 years

------------------
Regarding #3: (switching your entire house from Tiered to Time-of-Use (TOU)):
The LADWP guy does NOT recommend doing this for anyone in parts of L.A. where it gets hot during the summer (i.e.: everywhere except near the beach), since you'll be using your AC during peak hours, incurring a higher rate than you would if you stayed on Tiered as long as you can stay below Tier 3. Tiered is a better option than TOU for hot regions.
The current residential electric rates for LADWP are:

Tiered plan (rounded to nearest cent):
1000 kWh at 14 cents/kWh
Tier 2: 17 cents/kWh
Tier 3: 21 cents/kWh

TOU plan:
Base rate (M-F 8pm - 10 am, Weekends all day): 12.5 cents/kWh
Low peak: 16 cents/kWh
High peak: 24 cents/kWh

------------------
 
Yeah.. that totally sucks now, they've pulled back BIG time! EV rates on separate TOU back then are 6-8c/kwh flat off-peak. You can't beat that which is why everyone was doing the separate meter install and $2k jobs.

Those numbers you got are also waayyy out of line also. $3k for a separate EV panel install?? :lol: :roll: More like a $80 in parts.. and the most is just wire and time installed.

$3000.. WTF?? I'm still laughing.. LET ME RUN THIS DOWN FOR YA...
Meter socket.. $34
http://www.lowes.com/pd_232628-2174...pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=meter+sockets&facetInfo=
Breaker Box...$25
http://www.lowes.com/pd_36164-296-H...rentURL=?Ntt=breaker+panels&page=3&facetInfo=

And let's just say I know the wire prices pretty well at Lowes.. and you went REALLY big for a Rav or Tesla in your future and used #6 minimum... 80ft run.. plus conduit.. bends, little nick nacks, etc,etc,etc,etc,etc blah blah blah blah blah.
$380..


Again, if you need electricians let me know. I know 2. 1 that that did the actual EV panel and the other that did my solar/200a panel upgrade. It wouldn't take much for a stock Leaf.

As for EVSE's, that $750 is gravy! There are sooooo many options now.
 
Someone said the separate meter fee is $8 per month.
dgalvan you appear to have missed that in your cost analysis.
$8 is a lot. Have to be driving quite a lot and not charging at work for the 2.5 cents per kWh to just cover the meter rental.
Hard to see how separate meter would make much sense unless you are way up in Tier 3.
 
Underground feeds may present additional difficulties and can easily drive the cost to $3000 if there is any non-trivial amount of trenching involved, concrete in the way, etc. Simple jobs with splicing overhead feeds should run around $1500 with all the permits. The separate TOU route may make more sense if you plan to add another EV in the future.
 
It has to be a hard wire install as they are afraid of it being used for something other than EV charging if it has a plug on it... I did the math and decided that a separate TOU meter for the Leaf made no economic sense for me since I have underground utilities. It would never pay back in my lifetime at the pittance Kwh savings LADWP offers as an incentive...

dgalvan said:
I ended up forgetting to ask about the hard-install vs. outlet-install. Might call back about that.
 
I went the EV TOU route twice. First with LADWP because it was almost free after all rebates in 2011. Second with Edison after I moved because I didn't want to switch to the whole-home TOU and charging the car on domestic would be in tier 4 at 30c/kWh. I need 400-500 kWh monthly to charge my Leaf, so my savings on the TOU are $70-90, with that I expect to fully recover the cost of installing a separate meter after 1.5 years or so. In my case Edison didn't care about hardwired install, they didn't even look inside the garage.
 
dgalvan said:
I just had Roy from RG Electric out to give me an estimate on installing a 240V line. I do have a sub-panel in my garage, however the conductor (wire) connecting that sub-panel to the main panel on the house (where I connect to the grid) is only rated for 40 amps. Roy said he said he's been dinged before because when an inspector came to look over the install of an EVSE, the EVSE specs said it was rated for 30-40 amps (even though it was a "30 amp EVSE"), and the conductor coming to the sub-panel in the garage was only rated for 40 amps, so he had to re-do the job with 50 amp conductor because wiring has to be rated for 10 amps above what could possibly drawn. Since then, he always makes sure everything is rated for 50 amps, so there are no issues in having an EVSE that can draw 30-40 amps.

Since my sub-panel is connected to the main panel via only 40-amp-rated conductor, he's recommending just bringing new 50-amp conductor from the main panel on the back of the house all the way to the garage, not going through the garage sub-panel at all. He would use outdoor conduit along the roof (it's a slab house so can't route underneath). Probably a total length of about 80 ft total from main panel to EVSE.

Just FYI...the reason for the higher rated wiring is because you're not allowed by code to continuously load a circuit to more than 80% of its rated capacity. So if a circuit is rated at 40 amps, the biggest rated continuous load you can connect to it is 32 amps. If you connect a 30 amp EVSE to that, that only leaves 2 amps for everything else on that sub-panel.

I agree with your electrician that it would be easier to simply run a new line than to try to upgrade the existing sub-panel, especially if your wiring is not run inside conduit.
 
TimLee said:
Someone said the separate meter fee is $8 per month.
dgalvan you appear to have missed that in your cost analysis.
$8 is a lot. Have to be driving quite a lot and not charging at work for the 2.5 cents per kWh to just cover the meter rental.
Hard to see how separate meter would make much sense unless you are way up in Tier 3.

I haven't come across an $8/month fee for a separate meter in the LADWP literature. . . . LADWP on the phone said it costs $0 to switch your meter to TOU. Didn't mention any rental fee. Can anyone else confirm? (If confirmed, I'll factor that in to my earlier post.)
 
JasonA said:
Yeah.. that totally sucks now, they've pulled back BIG time! EV rates on separate TOU back then are 6-8c/kwh flat off-peak. You can't beat that which is why everyone was doing the separate meter install and $2k jobs.

Those numbers you got are also waayyy out of line also. $3k for a separate EV panel install?? :lol: :roll: More like a $80 in parts.. and the most is just wire and time installed.

$3000.. WTF?? I'm still laughing.. LET ME RUN THIS DOWN FOR YA...
Meter socket.. $34
http://www.lowes.com/pd_232628-2174...pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=meter+sockets&facetInfo=
Breaker Box...$25
http://www.lowes.com/pd_36164-296-H...rentURL=?Ntt=breaker+panels&page=3&facetInfo=

And let's just say I know the wire prices pretty well at Lowes.. and you went REALLY big for a Rav or Tesla in your future and used #6 minimum... 80ft run.. plus conduit.. bends, little nick nacks, etc,etc,etc,etc,etc blah blah blah blah blah.
$380..


Again, if you need electricians let me know. I know 2. 1 that that did the actual EV panel and the other that did my solar/200a panel upgrade. It wouldn't take much for a stock Leaf.

As for EVSE's, that $750 is gravy! There are sooooo many options now.

Thanks for your response. I'd love to hear electrician recommendations as long as they could serve the valley (I'm in Woodland Hills).
With your comments, I'll press the electrician I already had out to do an estimate on installing a separate panel just for EV TOU. It sounded like he was basically trying to avoid doing that part of the estimate. He had a "oh you aren't going to want to do that." attitude. And maybe he is right, as it aligns with what the LADWP guy was telling me ($1500+).
But if what you are saying is true and it could be a <$500 job, I'd probably opt to do it.
 
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