OBDII/Smartphone Combos which Work/Do Not Work

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Weatherman

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
916
Location
Weston, Florida
For those of us struggling to get the LEAF battery app to work with our smartphone and ODBII adapters, I'd like to start this thread just to summarize what appears to work and what doesn't. To start with what I have:

Samsung Galaxy S4 - Vgate ELM327 Bluetooth Scan Tool ODB2: Does not work. Gives "Waiting 4 Leaf data" forever

Samsung Galaxy S4 - BAFX Products ELM 327 Bluetooth ODB2 scan tool: Almost always works when app first starts, but then reverts to "Waiting 4 Leaf data" after less than ten scans. Needs to have app restarted to reestablish connection.
 
Vgate OBD scan http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005M1AVFQ/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Works with Google Nexus 7 tablet
2013 Leaf

Holland
 
Simvalley™ Mini ELM327 Bluetooth OBD2 Auto Diagnostics Scanner with Power Switch for Android works fine with the Kyocera Event:

http://www.amazon.com/Simvalley%2599-ELM327-Bluetooth-Diagnostics-Switch/dp/B00CF88GEW" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
WARNING:

Since you can get different products, circuits, revisions of the
ELM-clone from even the same vendor, and some seem to work
much more consistently than others, just giving the vendor
name is not sufficient to define the ELM-type device that you got.

Unfortunately, there is no good way to distinguish, as far as I know.

I got 17 "stubby" devices from one vendor, and I can see through
the back of the case that there are at least two different circuit
boards used. There appears to be 15 of one and 2 of the other.
The 15 seem to pair and stay connected. The 2 "others" are harder
to pair, but do pair, but then the communication seems to get
lost and needs to be re-established frequently.
 
garygid said:
WARNING:

Since you can get different products, circuits, revisions of the
ELM-clone from even the same vendor, and some seem to work
much more consistently than others, just giving the vendor
name is not sufficient to define the ELM-type device that you got.

Unfortunately, there is no good way to distinguish, as far as I know.

I got 17 "stubby" devices from one vendor, and I can see through
the back of the case that there are at least two different circuit
boards used. There appears to be 15 of one and 2 of the other.
The 15 seem to pair and stay connected. The 2 "others" are harder
to pair, but do pair, but then the communication seems to get
lost and needs to be re-established frequently.

True, I originally bought 2 ELM's from vendors that others here at MNL reported as "good and working" and neither of mine worked. So although I'll be happy to post the ones that did and didn't work for me, this appears to be very much a "grab bag" sort of situation. You may have to buy (and return) several of them before you find a good one that works for you. That's one of the reasons (after the first dud) I started purchasing them through Amazon, so I could return easily if needed.

OK, here's my list:

Kyocera Event + EBay - V1.5 Mini Bluetooth ELM327 Interface OBD-II OBD2 Auto Car Diagnostic ScannerTool DID NOT WORK FOR ME

Kyocera Event + Amazon - AGPtek® Super Mini ELM327 V1.5 Bluetooth OBD2 OBD-II CAN-BUS Auto Diagnostic Scanner DID NOT WORK FOR ME

Kyocera Event + Amazon - BAFX Products (TM) - PIC18F2480 Bluetooth OBD2 scan tool WORKS CONSISTENTLY WELL

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Kindle Fire HD 8.9" + EBay - V1.5 Mini Bluetooth ELM327 Interface OBD-II OBD2 Auto Car Diagnostic ScannerTool DID NOT WORK FOR ME

Kindle Fire HD 8.9" + Amazon - AGPtek® Super Mini ELM327 V1.5 Bluetooth OBD2 OBD-II CAN-BUS Auto Diagnostic Scanner DID NOT WORK FOR ME


Kindle Fire HD 8.9" + Amazon - BAFX Products (TM) - PIC18F2480 Bluetooth OBD2 scan tool WORKS CONSISTENTLY WELL
 
Thank you to everyone who has responded, so far.

I think the main value in a list like this is that if someone starts out with, say, a Samsung Galaxy SIII, they might be able to quickly scan the list to see if anyone else has a Galaxy SIII, which works with a particular OBDII. No guarantee, of course, but it's, at least, a good place to start.

When I started with my Galaxy S4, I just picked an OBDII from the battery app documentation OBDII list at random. Got a complete miss on the first attempt. The second one works well enough I can live with it, for now, but if someone else has a Galaxy S4, which works perfectly with a particular OBDII, I'll be much more inclined to give it a third try to get it right.
 
For those with versions that can be opened and might want to make the change, +12 always-on from the vehicle is on pin 16... Does anyone remember which pin it should be moved to on the Leaf for switched 12 volts?
 
TomT said:
For those with versions that can be opened and might want to make the change, +12 always-on from the vehicle is on pin 16... Does anyone remember which pin it should be moved to on the Leaf for switched 12 volts?

Tom, you must have missed the post from FR. He said that switching to 12V power on didn't really turn off the dongle power. So he's trying to find out how to do it. He mentioned pulling out one of the pins. This is why I bought the easily modifiable Simvalley VGate one too. It works well with the Kyocera eVent.
 
garygid said:
Pin 16 is always-on, and pin 8 is the switched-12v from the car.

Yes, but why did FR say he 'cut' pin 16 instead of just unsoldering it and re-soldering it to pin 8? Does leaving the pin attached keep the power on even though you switch the wire to pin 8? Thanks.
 
In the mini ELM device, there are no "wires" to move.
The pins from the OBD connector go directly into a PC board.

The "stubby" and long versions have wires that are easily moved.
 
Got the Simvalley Mini ELM327 (mentioned previously by MWalsh) working with a Samsung Galaxy S3. Took a few attempts repeating the same code (1234) to get it to pair, but it seems to be working fine since the pairing.
 
garygid said:
In the mini ELM device, there are no "wires" to move.
The pins from the OBD connector go directly into a PC board.

The "stubby" and long versions have wires that are easily moved.

Oh, I didn't realize the mini connected that way so now I see why he had to cut it. Thanks Gary.
 
Our combo is a Vgate mini ELM from eBay and two phones, an LG Ally that I bought on eBay for 40 bucks (works great), plus a Tmobile Samsung Galaxy model SGHT769. Never a problem pairing or reading data on any version of the app.
JG
 
The below adapter works very well with my Galaxy S3 and Turbo3's app, and gives a very solid connection. I've added a little information on how to modify it for switched 12 volts for those that are interested. There is also plenty of room in the case (and even a hole at the end with a rubber plug) for those who might want to add a power or buss switch...

I decided to get one of the BAFX Products PIC18F2480 Bluetooth OBD2 adapters (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) since it was very well reviewed and seemed to be one of the more compatible units... It is also relatively large - about 3" long - which was a plus for me (I use an OBDII extension and Y cable so size and clearance was not an issue) as I assumed it would allow for easy access and modifications. I primarily wanted to move it over to switched ACC power.

It turns out it is a breeze to do and took me 15 minutes from start to end. I'll give a brief description here for anyone who wants to do likewise.

1) The four screws that hold it together are under the blue label. Remove the adhesive label and remove the four screws.
2) Separate the unit and then unplug the white connector from the PC Board.
3) You can then lift the OBDII connector entirely out of the unit's shell.
4) Move the wire on pin 16 (full-time 12 volts) to pin 8 (switched ACC 12 volts). (In the photo, Pin 16 is on the top left and pin 8 is on the bottom left so it is a very easy move).
5) Put the connector back in to the shell and replug the connector to the PC Board.
6) Reassemble the two shell halfs with the 4 screws. Be careful not to bend the five LEDs...
7) Put the label back on (or leave it off if you prefer).

It now functions as before but is only powered when the car is powered on or in ACC. It is working very well with Turbo3's App.

2r2lmjm.jpg


15p4c2s.jpg


307oi07.jpg
 
TomT said:
The below adapter works very well with my Galaxy S3 and Turbo3's app, and gives a very solid connection. I've added a little information on how to modify it for switched 12 volts for those that are interested. There is also plenty of room in the case (and even a hole at the end with a rubber plug) for those who might want to add a power or buss switch...

I decided to get one of the BAFX Products PIC18F2480 Bluetooth OBD2 adapters (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) since it was very well reviewed and seemed to be one of the more compatible units... It is also relatively large - about 3" long - which was a plus for me (I use an OBDII extension and Y cable so size and clearance was not an issue) as I assumed it would allow for easy access and modifications. I primarily wanted to move it over to switched ACC power.

It turns out it is a breeze to do and took me 15 minutes from start to end. I'll give a brief description here for anyone who wants to do likewise.

1) The four screws that hold it together are under the blue label. Remove the adhesive label and remove the four screws.
2) Separate the unit and then unplug the white connector from the PC Board.
3) You can then lift the OBDII connector entirely out of the unit's shell.
4) Move the wire on pin 16 (full-time 12 volts) to pin 8 (switched ACC 12 volts). (In the photo, Pin 16 is on the top left and pin 8 is on the bottom left so it is a very easy move).
5) Put the connector back in to the shell and replug the connector to the PC Board.
6) Reassemble the two shell halfs with the 4 screws. Be careful not to bend the five LEDs...
7) Put the label back on (or leave it off if you prefer).

It now functions as before but is only powered when the car is powered on or in ACC. It is working very well with Turbo3's App.

2r2lmjm.jpg


15p4c2s.jpg


307oi07.jpg

For only $18, one can buy the Simvalley Vgate from Amazon that also has the four screws for easy modification. Both of mine have worked flawlessly with Kyocera eVent. It is no longer necessary to put in a switch for the EV CAN, just move wire 16 to 8 for switched power...much easier than putting in a power switch.
 
I went with the BAFX (the original, not one of the BAFX clones which seem to suffer from varying quality and connection problems) because it was the only unit I looked at that appeared to work with everything and was also one of the the best reviewed... That alone was worth a few extra bucks to me. Unlike the clone it replaced, it is also showing a solid 100% connection rate. I only did the pin 16 to pin 8 mode; no switch...

LEAFfan said:
For only $18, one can buy the Simvalley Vgate from Amazon that also has the four screws for easy modification. Both of mine have worked flawlessly with Kyocera eVent. It is no longer necessary to put in a switch for the EV CAN, just move wire 16 to 8 for switched power...much easier than putting in a power switch.
 
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