32A OpenEVSE with RGB Real Time Clock is sold

OpenEVSE for sale with RTC.

I have a OpenEVSE with a genuine ITT 25 foot 30A J1772 cable for sale. I decided to replace the cable on my OpenEVSE since my new B Class can charge at 40A.

My EVSE is mounted at the front of my garage. The 25 foot cable let me drive in and still charge my Leaf. Before I had to back in. My Mercedes B has the port at the rear so I no longer need 25 feet.

This consists of a 4 ft 40A range cable, A 25Ft J1772 cable running at 32A, A voltage and current meter, a RGB display with a real time clock timer, A Barbouri ver 4.21 EVSE board, a 12V power supply and a 80A rated relay. This is all mounted in a 4.75X8 inch box with a clear top. The box is mounted on some flooring that adds about an inch at each end to mount the unit.

This unit will operate at L1 120V 12A or L2 240V 32A. It is loaded with ver 3.34 firmware. to use it at L1 it would need the proper adapter.

This unit is intended to be used with a 40A 240V circuit with a 14-50 recepticle.

I am selling this for $335 ( new price) plus $25 for shipping. Local pickup near Disneyland is available. This is sold ASIS but I guarantee it will work upon receipt.

Payment is cash for local pickup or Paypal if I ship the unit.

I shamelessly took this from vegasbrad's add. It is a good idea to emphise the details. I have always depended on my user's common sense.

LEGAL DISCLAIMER: Because of lawyers I have to add this. This EVSE is intended for use ONLY by responsible adults. Because they are hand-made, they are not UL listed - but are made from UL listed parts. 240v electricity is serious business and caution should be exercised while using any EVSE. For safety's sake, do not use this EVSE outdoors in inclement weather unless it is a model that specifically says Outdoor or Waterproof. This EVSE has a GFCI built inside that protects from that point down line. (The J plug side of the the EVSE is safe for outdoors in all weather). BY PLACING AN ORDER WITH US, YOU ASSUME ALL RISK ASSOCIATED WITH USING THIS EVSE AND AGREE THAT WE ARE NOT LIABLE FOR ANY DAMAGE THAT MAY RESULT FROM THEIR USE.

Ok, Tony Williams has said certain cars do not like the RTC scheme and it is better to use the proximity line. Lincomatic made a special version of OpenEVSE for me to set a port high while sleeping or waiting for the timer. I use that to trigger a 10 second timer when the line reverts to low to pull the proximity line high.

Since the ITT cable brings out the proximity line I pull it high for ten seconds after sleeping or the RTC ends. This should make the timer universal. This is a no cost added feature.

This has the advantage of making the RTC and sleep mode universal but not comprising the car's disable when the J1772 cable is plugged in.

I sold an OpenEVSE to a person with a Fiat EV. He said that the internal RTC did not work on his car. Lincomatic has updated the Proximity port since I built this unit. I upgraded it to the current version to test my circuit with his new port. Everything worked as I expected.

This 32A unit should control any car since the car thinks the J1772 plug is removed and then inserted just before charging starts.

This unit will allow any car to charge at currents up to 32A. It will charge an older Leaf or a basic Leaf S at 16A. It will charge a upgraded charger Leaf at 27.5A. It will charge any EV requiring 30A at full current. It will charge Tesla based cars at 32A.

Hi, I know some folks looking for an EVSE.

It would help if you posted a pic of the plug to help them visualize it.

On a 30A or 32A EVSE you need a 40A plug. Since 40A plugs do not exist you are allowed to use a 50A plug at 40A.

This is a 14-50 plug with #8 (40a) wiring. It should be connected to a 14-50 socket with #8 wires and a 40A circuit breaker.

An EVSE is considered a continuous load and the circuit must be upgraded. A 32A EVSE must have a 40A circuit. 125% of 32A.

This unit has a 4 foot range cable with a 14-50 plug.

GlennD said:

Ok, Tony Williams has said certain cars do not like the RTC scheme and it is better to use the proximity line. Lincomatic made a special version of OpenEVSE for me to set a port high while sleeping or waiting for the timer. I use that to pull in a relay.

Since the ITT cable brings out the proximity line I pull it high while sleeping. This should make the timer universal. This is a no cost added feature.

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Wait a second. If you defeat the proximity line, what's to keep someone from starting the car and driving away with it plugged in? Normally this is handled by the car (won't let you go out of park due to proximity on the J1772 plug) but since you're essentially defeating the proximity, won't you also lose this important safety feature?

What cars don't like the RTC scheme? Do they time out waiting for an "ok to charge" pilot signal?

The 2 cars I have owned, a Leaf and a Mercedes B Class use the firmware RTC just fine. I sold an OpenEVSE with RTC to a Fiat owner and he said that the RTC did not work and he was using the car's timer.

I have no other details but Tony Williams told me some cars are picky.

You are right, I suppose the proximity disable will also defeat the drive away protection. In my EVSE if the Hardware mod is not required it is simple to just unplug the connectot that is plugged in to the ISP pins. That will completely disable the circuit since power, ground, and the trigger comes from there.

Perhaps you could leave the proximity alone until ~30 seconds before timer activation, then "cycle" the proximity? Essentially then you'd trick the car into thinking you're unplugging and replugging the J1772 handle, and then would respond to the pilot.

JeremyW brings up a good point. The proximity over ride will let the car move since it does not know the EVSE is plugged in. Fortunately the ISP connector is used so it is easy to disable it. All you have to do is unplug the connector.

I have had only one user require the mod but he said he is happy using his Fiat's internal timer. My goal is a happy customer so I will do whatever is necessary. Lincomatic is very accommodating.

To JeremyW, I thought about the proximity line. Since I am a hardware geek I added a 10 second NE555 timer to the line. The timer is triggered by the line in its low state through an input cap. Now when the EVSE goes active the proximity line is pulled high for 10 seconds. This does not comprise the protection and it makes the car assume the plug was just plugged in. This should make the RTC truly universal.

I assume a software guru like you would modify the firmware as long as there is enough ram available. As a firmware option user only I did it in hardware. This mod only took the NE555 and its related parts. The added benefit is the OpenEVSE firmware is stock so it is easy to install upgrades.

I have edited the descriptions to reflect the current Proximity enhancement.

With no offers I am reducing the price to $335 plus $25 for shipping.

GlennD said:

I have edited the descriptions to reflect the current Proximity enhancement.

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Thanks Glenn for doing that. I know I've forgotten to unplug before and wouldn't want anything to happen to your handiwork!

JeremyW said:

GlennD said:

I have edited the descriptions to reflect the current Proximity enhancement.

Click to expand...

Thanks Glenn for doing that. I know I've forgotten to unplug before and wouldn't want anything to happen to your handiwork!

Click to expand...

It really was a good fix. just the 555 and supporting parts. The trigger was even the right polarity. It just required a cap and pull up resistor.

I had not considered the ramifications since I have never tried to drive off with the J1772 connector still plugged in to the car (yet).

Reduced to $300 plus shipping, The only reason that I can go this low is that the J1772 cable was used on an EVSE for my Leaf and it was paid for long ago.

GlennD said:

Reduced to $300 plus shipping, The only reason that I can go this low is that the J1772 cable was used on an EVSE for my Leaf and it was paid for long ago.

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please forgive the questions but I want to be sure I know what I'm dealing with.

what is Barbouri ver 4.21 EVSE board functionally vs openevse 2.5plus board? No difference after you finish the build or some difference with more / less / different features supported?

And there is still a cable with J1772 plug still attached? Or do I need to buy one?

I'm assuming I can step down to 6a on 120v with the 14-50 to 5-15 adapter and that the questions above are purely academic in nature.

Before Chris established his store Barbouri was designing compatible PCBs. The major difference is that Chris uses an opamp that will not go to rail to rail and Barbouri uses a switch to go between +-12V. Chris modified the value of the defined 1K series resistor to 650 ohms to compensate for the fact that the op amp would not go to the full 12V.

Both use the same firmware. The Barbouri has a more complex and expensive output circuit. Chris's ver 2.5 introduced an internal current display that the Barbouri lacks. With an external meter they are equivalent.

Functionally both are equivalent but I prefer the Barbouri output circuit. Where space is a consideration you can not beat the Ver 2.5 SMD footprint. Both work great and the Barbouri board is too expensive to build unless you have most parts on hand. The ver 2 board used to be $135, now that Chris has them fabricated he has lowered the price to $75. For a new build that makes the ver 2.5 board a no brainer.

This OpenEVSE is complete. It is using the used in good condition 25 ft ITT cable I used to charge my Leaf. I replaced it with a 40A cable to charge my Mercedes B Class and used the ITT cable to build this. The cable was long ago paid for so the price is cheap.

6a is the J1772 spec minimum but some cars require at least 10A. My Mercedes came with a Lear L1 charger that defaults to 8A but it can be switched to 12A. It obviously can charge at 8A.

GlennD said:

This OpenEVSE is complete. It is using the used in good condition 25 ft ITT cable I used to charge my Leaf.

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Thanks for all the answers, PMs sent, payment sent.