60A 14.4kW Premium OpenEVSE L2, Current display, RGB LCD RTC

EDIT: This one is sold but I have recieved alot of inquires about custom builds. YES I definitely take orders for anything you would like to see in your EVSE. Lead time is only 3 days. Private message me or if you have a general question you think the rest of the community can benefit from post it here.

60A 14.4kW Premium OpenEVSE L2 with built in current display & RGB LCD display w/Real Time Clock, v3 Main Board

I bought a 2013 Nissan LEAF and love it! I have a heavy electrical background and was inspired when i saw some DIY units for sale here. Work has been very slow and my employer is still weeks behind in paying the other employee and I. This has caused a severe financial hardship. It's a very stressfull time with 2 little boys. I need to support my family anyway I can and am hoping to build and sell a few EVSE's. Thanks for reading this, Now on to the fun stuff!!

I have a Premium High Power OpenEVSE for sale I built this one to be the best of the best! its running Chris's latest and greatest version 3 main board now with built in current reading right on the LCD! I used his best LCD the RGB model that changes colors for diferent status and Real Time Clock that allows you to set a delay timer great for those of us that can sign up with discounted night time electic rates. I went with a SHEILDED BMW 60A J1772 23 foot cable. It has a Dolstar 70A plug. This unit operates at 240VAC. This is mounted in a very nice PolyCase WC Series Polycarbonate Enclosure with Clear Cover - NEMA Rated for outdoor use. This unit requires a common NEMA 14-50 outlet for 50A use or can be hard wired for 60A. The cost is $521 plus $25 for UPS ground shipping in the continential USA. the premium board/LCD/2nd ct xformer and heavy J1772 Whip really add alot to the cost as you can see but make the best unit you can own!

It will charge any J1772 compliant car at up to 50A (60A Hardwired)
The EVSE current (amps) may be set in multiple steps
Memory is retained automatically.

I can now customize the firmware to whatever values you like before shipping. I chose these values to give the user flexability for various outlets found in the wild. I stop at 60A as this is what the relays and cables are rated for. This unit is constructed with 60A components except for the 14-50 plug itself. It is designed to plug into a 14-50 outlet. 48A is 80% of 60A and it is the maximum allowed for a continuous load when hardwired. I go higher on the 120v side than you normally get so if you use a RV 30A outlet you can take advantage of faster charging. in my test my LEAF could pull 2.64kilowatts (22A @ 120V)

Case Specs:
Case measures 7.63 x 4.63 x 3.09 in.
Designed to IP65 of IEC 529 and NEMA 1, 2, 4, 4x, 12 and 13 specifications
Silicone rubber gasket makes this ideal for outdoor use in a wide range of adverse conditions
Molded on surface-mounting flanges
Captive, stainless steel screws thread into brass inserts for cover on/cover off applications
UL Listed to UL508-4x specifications (File E194432)

Main Board Specs:
Open Source - Hardware (Creative Commons 3.0 BY-SA) and Firmware (GNU GPL v3)
Fully supports SAE J1772 Recommended Practice
Software adjustable pilot (8A – 80A)
4W Switch Mode Power Supply Integrated
Built in GFCI with 20ma trip point
Supports all J1772 states including “ventilation required”
Supports Diode check
Ground verification and Stuck Relay detection

Specs:
OpenEVSE v.3 board running the latest firmware
All nults/bolts/washers are STAINLESS STEEL
The base plate inside is 1/4" thick high quality plex ,no thin stuff here.
The QUAD relay bank is Potter & Brummfiled 60A per Phase
The input cable is 5ft. with the popular NEMA 14-50 plug. This is the one all the Tesla guys have installed as well as the standard at RV parks!
you can even use the plugshare app and set the filters to include NEMA 14-50 and see all of them in the country, there are a suprising number of them.
It has a monochrome black on yellow display
23ft. 60A heavy duty SHEILDED J1772 cable with a Dostar 70A plug
I used a black metal blue lighted ring Menu/Select button. with IP65 water resistance rating
Heat shrink tubing used through out.
All parts are new.

Works with the following vehicles and more!
Nissan LEAF
Toyota RAV4
Toyota Prius Plugin
Chevrolet Volt
Chevrolet Spark EV
Mitsubishi i-MiEV
BMW i3
BMW i8
Cadillac ELR
Fiat 500e
Ford C-Max Energi
Ford Fusion Energi
Ford Focus Electric
Honda Accord Plug-in Hybrid
Smart ForTwo Electric Drive
Porsche Panamera S E-hybrid
Toyota Prius Plug-in Hybrid
Volkswagen E-Golf
Kia Soul EV
Tesla Model S (with included OEM J1772 adapter)
Tesla Model X (with included OEM J1772 adapter)

It will charge any J1772 compliant car at up to 60A including home built/converted cars with a J1772 inlet installed.

here is a link to the owners manual:
https://code.google.com/p/open-evse/wiki/Users_Guide

Here is a video on me demo'ing the unit:
http://youtu.be/wCW8v51NccE" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

If you would like the unit customized with a twist lock plug for example or something other than the Nema 14-50 plug I can do that for the difference in parts.
I take custom orders for personalized builds, just shoot me a private message or post here and I will be happy to quote you a great price.

If you would like to see it in action on your EV we can arrange that thru private message at my home. Local pickup in Las Vegas near Smith's grocery on E Flamingo or near The Strip is available. Payment is by Paypal if shipped or cash for local pickup.

Please post any comments or questions here or PM me if you like. Slide show of pics:
http://s762.photobucket.com/user/civic09/slideshow/60A%20Home%20EVSE" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The pics:









LEGAL DISCLAIMER: Because of lawyers I have to add this. This EVSE is intended for use ONLY by responsible adults. Because they are hand-made, they are not UL listed - but are made from UL listed parts. 240v electricity is serious business and caution should be exercised while using any EVSE. For safety's sake, do not use this EVSE outdoors in inclement weather unless it is a model that specifically says Outdoor or Waterproof. You should always install a GFCI breaker not a standard one for any and all circuits a person can come in contact with This EVSE has a GFCI built inside that protects from that point down line. (The J plug side of the the EVSE is safe for outdoors in all weather). BY PLACING AN ORDER WITH US, YOU ASSUME ALL RISK ASSOCIATED WITH USING THIS EVSE AND AGREE THAT WE ARE NOT LIABLE FOR ANY DAMAGE THAT MAY RESULT FROM THEIR USE.

You should rethink your max current rating. The NEMA 14-50 is 50A max, and, as you say - should be derated to 80%.

srl99 said:

You should rethink your max current rating. The NEMA 14-50 is 50A max, and, as you say - should be derated to 80%.

Click to expand...

Good Point, I should clarify the unit should be hardwired to go to the max of 60A, the relays & J1772 "whip" are good for 60A but the 14-50 input plug is 50A.

I had reservations about this build thinking it that it was using 2 30A SPST relays for a so called 60A EVSE. But vegasbrad has clarified that there are 4 30A relays, splitting line 1 and 2 of a 240V circuit. This is a clever build akeen to what Tesla has done with it's EVSEs. With this information, this build looks gorgeous!

Eholmes, please look closer, there are 4 relays, the L1 and L2 are split into two 30A relays each, just as the quick charge power j1772 cable and tesla uses multi lines for current path. I also state it's a relay bank but I understand the confusion with the tight package, thanks for bringing this to light, I want everyone to feel confident in my builds. I'll revise to clarify.
As for the continuous rating I cover that too in the listing. 80% derate after 3 hrs per NEC. I will edit multiple spots to clarify that too.

VegasBrad said:

Eholmes, please look closer, there are clearly 4 relays, the L1 and L2 are split into two 30A relays each, just as the quick charge power j1772 cable and tesla uses multi lines for current path. I also state it's a relay bank but I understand the confusion with the tight package, thanks for bringing this to light, I want everyone to feel confident in my builds. I'll revise to clarify.
As for the continuous rating I cover that too in the listing. 80% debate after 3 hrs per NEC. I will edit multiple spots to clarify that too.

Click to expand...

Hi Brad, Thanks for the clarification - makes sense now! I'll edit my original post to reflect. Also, I agree with comments about using higher current if not continuous (I've done it not infrequently!).

Very welcome! Thanks for the kind words!

VegasBrad said:

eHelmholtz said:

vegasbrad,
I have refrained from commenting thus far but you've put your ad up on several forums including the Volt and RAV4EV forums and it seems a bit misleading. Let me say that this looks to be a good build but I have reservations. The photos show an EVSE built using what looks to be two 30A SPST relays with quick connect terminals. If so, you can set the firmware to 60A but this EVSE really ought not be used above 24A. Of course, the Volt only pulls 15-16A and the LEAF pulls 27-30A no matter what the EVSE is set to so unsuspecting people with these cars would likely be none the wiser but it is disingenuous to claim that its a 60A EVSE, not to mention dubious to set a current limit above hardware specs.

Click to expand...

Eholmes, please look closer, there are clearly 4 relays, the L1 and L2 are split into two 30A relays each, just as the quick charge power j1772 cable and tesla uses multi lines for current path. I also state it's a relay bank but I understand the confusion with the tight package, thanks for bringing this to light, I want everyone to feel confident in my builds. I'll revise to clarify.
As for the continuous rating I cover that too in the listing. 80% debate after 3 hrs per NEC. I will edit multiple spots to clarify that too.

Click to expand...

I was going to point that out but figured you would answer that question better. So I have a few questions. What happens when one of the 4 relays fails? Does Tesla actually use four relays? So how are you splitting the input and output wires?

The OpenEVSE includes several safety checks, one is a relay check which works really well. Many years ago I did professional car audio installation for nearly a decade. I installed hundreds of relays from potter & brummfield and never had a single failure, not one. I have used these same model p&b relays that i use in my EVSE builds in many projects before and never a failure. I have much confidence in them.
To clarify Telsa & quickchargepower.com use multiple blacks(hot) and reds (L2/neutral) in their cables which are tied together at the ends, thats what I meant. As far as relays Tesla uses a 30A and runs 40A thru it from what everyone who has cracked one of the UMD's open says.
The split is simple, L1 to both left bank relays, L2 to both right bank relays, then combine each on the output(s) respectivly. The Red is pretty easy to see in the pic, but the black is hard, I use a lot of name brand quality heat shrink in my build.

VegasBrad said:

The split is simple, L1 to both left bank relays, L2 to both right bank relays, then combine each on the output(s) respectively. The Red is pretty easy to see in the pic, but the black is hard, I use a lot of name brand quality heat shrink in my build.

Click to expand...

To make it clear:
L1 = voltage line 1
L2 = voltage line 2

My first thought was 120V (L1 charging) on one set of relays and 240V (L2 charging) on the other set.

Yeah, I'm too technical L1 meaning phase 1 120v from the panel. typically Black, L2 meaning phase2 120v from the panel typically Red which is 180 degrees out of phase with L1, this is how we get 240v in this country. BUT the evse and our cars are clever and will automatically take 120v if the red cable is connected to neutral instead. being as L1 and L2 are synonimous with level 1 and level 2 charging i'll refer to phases as line1 and line2 in the future.

The yellow 1/4 in push on connectors are rated at 25A. Since the EVSE never switches with power then two relays per side (30A rated) are good for 50A. The max current limited by the push on connectors.

Personally, I would have used a big contactor but this works since both relays per side will be pulled in before the car contactor. There might be arcing under error conditions but we never want to see an error.

No commercial car draws more than 40A except a dual charger Tesla.

GlennD said:

The yellow 1/4 in push on connectors are rated at 25A. Since the EVSE never switches with power then two relays per side (30A rated) are good for 50A. The max current limited by the push on connectors.

Personally, I would have used a big contactor but this works since both relays per side will be pulled in before the car contactor. There might be arcing under error conditions but we never want to see an error.

No commercial car draws more than 40A except a dual charger Tesla.

Click to expand...

Glenn,
That's good to know. Chris sells yellow 1/4 in push on connectors in his 30A kits and they are made for 10ga. So I believed they are good for 30A. The female spades I use are expensive fully insulated 3M brand ones I got awhile back, the metal is thicker and has no slots in them like the half insulated ones that are common. I just found the data sheet for them: 3M FDI10-250Q wouldn't you know it, every rating BUT amps. UL listed, 600v, 221deg. F, but no amp rating.

I went to Grainger and they wanted $180 and up for a contactor which i think is crazy. Many people have complained about contactor buzz when i did my research so i stayed with relays.
How has your experience with contactors been? wouldn't you need 2 to make the EVSE dual voltage?

VegasBrad said:

The OpenEVSE includes several safety checks, one is a relay check which works really well. Many years ago I did professional car audio installation for nearly a decade. I installed hundreds of relays from potter & brummfield and never had a single failure, not one. I have used these same model p&b relays that i use in my EVSE builds in many projects before and never a failure. I have much confidence in them.
To clarify Telsa & quickchargepower.com use multiple blacks(hot) and reds (L2/neutral) in their cables which are tied together at the ends, thats what I meant. As far as relays Tesla uses a 30A and runs 40A thru it from what everyone who has cracked one of the UMD's open says.
The split is simple, L1 to both left bank relays, L2 to both right bank relays, then combine each on the output(s) respectivly. The Red is pretty easy to see in the pic, but the black is hard, I use a lot of name brand quality heat shrink in my build.

Click to expand...

I guarantee you relays fail... The OpenEVSE will detect a relay which fails closed but not one that fails open. If this happens with your dual relay setup the EVSE will continue to function. I presume you are using the thick cordsets which have one single wire so the only point which will not have the proper rating is at the relay. So if one was running it at 50 or 60 amps the connections at the relay or the relay itself would overheat and eventually fail. I would presume that the enclosure would ensure this did not pose a fire hazard.

Since you aren't at all doing what Tesla or Quick Charge Power are doing I don't think it's relevant what they do. How are you actually splitting the wires though? Are you attaching two smaller wires to the larger wire or are you just splitting the strands of the wiring and hoping that you dividing the strands as close to half and half as possible?

QueenBee said:

I guarantee you relays fail... The OpenEVSE will detect a relay which fails closed but not one that fails open. If this happens with your dual relay setup the EVSE will continue to function. I presume you are using the thick cordsets which have one single wire so the only point which will not have the proper rating is at the relay. So if one was running it at 50 or 60 amps the connections at the relay or the relay itself would overheat and eventually fail. I would presume that the enclosure would ensure this did not pose a fire hazard.

Click to expand...

Interesting. Would it be possible to program OpenEVSE with some kind of maximum charging time before shutoff? Or would that make a difference?

VegasBrad said:

GlennD said:

The yellow 1/4 in push on connectors are rated at 25A. Since the EVSE never switches with power then two relays per side (30A rated) are good for 50A. The max current limited by the push on connectors.

Personally, I would have used a big contactor but this works since both relays per side will be pulled in before the car contactor. There might be arcing under error conditions but we never want to see an error.

No commercial car draws more than 40A except a dual charger Tesla.

Click to expand...

Glenn,
That's good to know. Chris sells yellow 1/4 in push on connectors in his 30A kits and they are made for 10ga. So I believed they are good for 30A. The female spades I use are expensive fully insulated 3M brand ones I got awhile back, the metal is thicker and has no slots in them like the half insulated ones that are common. I just found the data sheet for them: 3M FDI10-250Q wouldn't you know it, every rating BUT amps. UL listed, 600v, 221deg. F, but no amp rating.

I went to Grainger and they wanted $180 and up for a contactor which i think is crazy. Many people have complained about contactor buzz when i did my research so i stayed with relays.
How has your experience with contactors been? wouldn't you need 2 to make the EVSE dual voltage?

Click to expand...

Yes he does but he limits his 30A kit to 24A (80% of 30A) so the connectors are within spec.

GlennD said:

VegasBrad said:

GlennD said:

The yellow 1/4 in push on connectors are rated at 25A. Since the EVSE never switches with power then two relays per side (30A rated) are good for 50A. The max current limited by the push on connectors.

Personally, I would have used a big contactor but this works since both relays per side will be pulled in before the car contactor. There might be arcing under error conditions but we never want to see an error.

No commercial car draws more than 40A except a dual charger Tesla.

Click to expand...

Glenn,
That's good to know. Chris sells yellow 1/4 in push on connectors in his 30A kits and they are made for 10ga. So I believed they are good for 30A. The female spades I use are expensive fully insulated 3M brand ones I got awhile back, the metal is thicker and has no slots in them like the half insulated ones that are common. I just found the data sheet for them: 3M FDI10-250Q wouldn't you know it, every rating BUT amps. UL listed, 600v, 221deg. F, but no amp rating.

I went to Grainger and they wanted $180 and up for a contactor which i think is crazy. Many people have complained about contactor buzz when i did my research so i stayed with relays.
How has your experience with contactors been? wouldn't you need 2 to make the EVSE dual voltage?

Click to expand...

Yes he does but he limits his 30A kit to 24A (80% of 30A) so the connectors are within spec.

Click to expand...

When I downloaded his pre-compiled hex from the 30A kit page it's current selections in the menu go all the way up to 80A I see the fuses are rated at 30A

Chris covers the whole J1772 spec. You are supposed to use what matches your EVSE. The table is plain text and on my EVSE's I edit the table from 10A to 50A in 2A steps. If I construct a 30A unit I set the current to 24A.

Obviously there is a safety in that even if I tell my EVSE to be at 80A my Leaf will only draw is max of 27.5A.

The J1772 specification has two parts. First the EVSE says what its available current is via the pilot duty cycle. The car charger says for instance, I see I have 30A available. That means a Volt can charge at its max of 16A. The rest of the current is ignored.

It cracks me up that people want a very high power EVSE to make their car charge faster. The car always takes what it needs subject to the available current. A RAV4 EV will take all 40A of a 40A EVSE but everyone else will take what they need. If fact that same RAV4 EV wuold charge at 30A on a 30A EVSE. It would respect the available current.

Glenn, I get that to, I also get the "is that too much amps for my car, will it be bad if i set it higher" question alot When I build a 30A unit I edit out the values above 30 too. Then I set the default current to 24A. When you said Chris limits his kit to 24A how does he limit it?

Here is something I've always wondered. Can the pilot signal indicating the current the EVSE is capable of outputting be a dynamic value? Say for instance, If you have a 100 amp service in your house, and the load on the panel climbs to a value where the panel is near it's capacity while a car is charging at 27 amps... could the EVSE sense the total load on the service panel and reduce it's pilot signal value in real time causing the charger in the car to draw less current to prevent an overload? I built a load shed system for a place I owned once (google "john's load shed") but a system like I just mentioned would be a lot more elegant.