30A OpenEVSE portable waterproof outdoor unit For Sale

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VegasBrad

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 12, 2014
Messages
59
Location
Las Vegas
EDIT: This one is sold but I have received a lot of inquires about custom builds. YES I definitely take orders for anything you would like to see in your EVSE. Lead time is only 3 days. Private message me or if you have a general question you think the rest of the community can benefit from post it here.

EDIT: I want to clarify this is a fully assembled & tested unit not a kit. It's ready to use out of the box! The only accessories you may want are the input cable adapters I offer such as the standard 5-15 plug to 14-50 outlet rated at 20A found here: http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=18483" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

30A OpenEVSE portable waterproof outdoor unit For Sale

I bought a 2013 Nissan LEAF and love it! I have a heavy electrical background and was inspired when i saw some DIY units for sale here. Work has been very slow and my employer is now weeks behind in paying the other employee and I. :cry: This has caused a severe financial hardship. It's a very stressful time with 2 little boys. I need to support my family anyway I can and am hoping to build and sell a few EVSE's. Thanks for reading this, Now on to the fun stuff!!

I have a High Power OpenEVSE for sale with a Yazaki 30A J1772 15 foot cable. This unit operates on Level 1 120VAC or Level 240VAC. Using optional adapters you can plug this into a standard house outlet, for 120v use, a 240v dryer outlet, etc. This is a 30A EVSE. This is mounted in a PolyCase WC Series Polycarbonate Enclosure with Clear Cover - NEMA Rated for outdoor use. This unit requires a 40A 240V circuit breaker for maximum current but can be dialed back to whatever circuit you may find via the menu, see my video demo link below.

The cost is $395 plus $25 for UPS ground shipping in the continental USA

It will charge any J1772 compliant car at up to 30A.
The EVSE may be set in multiple steps on Level 1 and 2.
Level 1: 6,8,10,12,14,16,18,20,22,24,26,28,30A
Level 2: 6,8,10,12,14,16,18,20,22,24,26,28,30A

Memory is retained for each level separately.

I can now customize the firmware to whatever values you like before shipping. I chose these values to give the user flexibility for various outlets found in the wild. I stop at 30A as this is what the relays and cables are rated for. This unit is constructed with 30A components. It is designed to plug into a 14-50 outlet protected by a 40A circuit breaker. 32A is 80% of 40A and it is the maximum allowed for a continuous load. I go higher on the 120v side than you normally get so if you use a RV 30A outlet you can take advantage of faster charging. in my test my LEAF could pull 2.64kilowatts (22A @ 120V)

Case Specs:
Case measures 6.30 x 3.15 x 3.35 in.
Designed to IP65 of IEC 529 and NEMA 1, 2, 4, 4x, 12 and 13 specifications
Silicone rubber gasket makes this ideal for outdoor use in a wide range of adverse conditions
Molded on surface-mounting flanges
Captive, stainless steel screws thread into brass inserts for cover on/cover off applications
UL Listed to UL508-4x specifications (File E194432)

Main Board Specs:
Open Source - Hardware (Creative Commons 3.0 BY-SA) and Firmware (GNU GPL v3)
Fully supports SAE J1772 Recommended Practice
Software adjustable pilot (12A – 30A)
4W Switch Mode Power Supply Integrated
Built in GFCI with 20ma trip point
Supports all J1772 states including “ventilation required”
Supports Diode check
AC L1 – L2 auto detect Current setting for each
Ground verification and Stuck Relay detection

Specs:
OpenEVSE v.2 board running newest firmware
All nuts/bolts/washers are STAINLESS STEEL
The base plate inside is 1/4" thick high quality plex ,no thin stuff here.
The relays are quality Potter & Brummfield 30A units.
The input cable is 1-foot 30A as it's a portable with the popular NEMA 14-50 plug. With an EZ pull handle! This is the one all the Tesla guys have installed as well as the standard at RV parks!
you can even use the plugshare app and set the filters to include NEMA 14-50 and see all of them in the country, there are a suprising number of them.
It has a monochrome black on yellow display
I used a silver color metal blue lighted ring Menu/Select button. with IP65 water resistance rating
Heat shrink tubing used through out.
All parts are new.

Here is a link to the owners manual:
https://code.google.com/p/open-evse/wiki/Users_Guide

Here is a video on me demo'ing the unit:
http://youtu.be/18CjZzrDLcY" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; at 240v
http://youtu.be/p58ZRoR1dUc" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; at 120v

If you would like the unit customized with a twist lock plug for example or something other than the Nema 14-50 plug I can do that for the difference in parts.

If you would like to see it in action on your EV we can arrange that thru private message at my home. The cost is $395 plus $25 for UPS ground shipping in the continental USA.
Local pickup in Las Vegas near Smith's grocery on E Flamingo or near The Strip is available. Payment is by Paypal if shipped or cash for local pickup.

Please post any comments or questions here or PM me if you like.






LEGAL DISCLAIMER: Because of lawyers I have to add this. This EVSE is intended for use ONLY by responsible adults. Because they are hand-made, they are not UL listed - but are made from UL listed parts. 240v electricity is serious business and caution should be exercised while using any EVSE. It is a good idea to install a GFCI breaker not a standard one for any and all circuits a person can come in contact with If your buying one anyway. This EVSE has a GFCI built inside that protects from that point down line. (The J plug side of the the EVSE is safe for outdoors in all weather). BY PLACING AN ORDER WITH US, YOU ASSUME ALL RISK ASSOCIATED WITH USING THIS EVSE AND AGREE THAT WE ARE NOT LIABLE FOR ANY DAMAGE THAT MAY RESULT FROM THEIR USE.
 
It does look really cool!

Wish it was programmable down to 6A @ 110V

I already have Two EVSEs otherwise I'd buy it

GLWTS

Lasareath
 
Lasareath said:
It does look really cool!

Wish it was programmable down to 6A @ 110V

I already have Two EVSEs otherwise I'd buy it

GLWTS


Lasareath

Thanks :) always love feedback. I didn't think anyone would want to charge that low so I don't have it in the firmware. I'll go in and edit it to include 6 amps at both levels
 
You can Program that into the firmware?!

That's very cool.

The reason I like that option is if you're at a friend's house and the breaker keeps popping at 12Amps.




VegasBrad said:
Lasareath said:
It does look really cool!

Wish it was programmable down to 6A @ 110V

I already have Two EVSEs otherwise I'd buy it

GLWTS


Lasareath

Thanks :) always love feedback. I didn't think anyone would want to charge that low so I don't have it in the firmware. I'll go in and edit it to include 6 amps at both levels
 
Not saying this is the case with your product. It looks very well engineer. I am just curious. Why do so many tinkers who build EVSE blow IGBTs so often. Or to say it another way. Why is it so hard to build a EVSE above 15-25KW without blowing IGBTs?

Again this has nothing to do with your product. Just wonder how tinkers with less experience than you would get in to trouble.

Any thing you can say about this would be helpful.
 
EV4Taos said:
Not saying this is the case with your product. It looks very well engineer. I am just curious. Why do so many tinkers who build EVSE blow IGBTs so often. Or to say it another way. Why is it so hard to build a EVSE above 15-25KW without blowing IGBTs?

Again this has nothing to do with your product. Just wonder how tinkers with less experience than you would get in to trouble.

Any thing you can say about this would be helpful.
Why would an EVSE use IGBTs?
 
pchilds said:
EV4Taos said:
Not saying this is the case with your product. It looks very well engineer. I am just curious. Why do so many tinkers who build EVSE blow IGBTs so often. Or to say it another way. Why is it so hard to build a EVSE above 15-25KW without blowing IGBTs?

Again this has nothing to do with your product. Just wonder how tinkers with less experience than you would get in to trouble.

Any thing you can say about this would be helpful.
Why would an EVSE use IGBTs?
Yep that one threw me too :lol: They don't... EVSE's are just a board and relays. I think he's off topic about transistors in a on-board charger found in conversion cars.
 
EV4Taos said:
Not saying this is the case with your product. It looks very well engineer. I am just curious. Why do so many tinkers who build EVSE blow IGBTs so often. Or to say it another way. Why is it so hard to build a EVSE above 15-25KW without blowing IGBTs?

Again this has nothing to do with your product. Just wonder how tinkers with less experience than you would get in to trouble.

Any thing you can say about this would be helpful.

Thanks for the compliments, I haven't experience with non OEM chargers. EVSE's (charging station equipment) don't have IGBT's I see a bunch of talk in the charger thread about them
 
I guess I had IGBTs on my mind LOL. My head was so in the details I forgot what context I was in. =p I do know charges != EVSEs. Just have a burning desire to understand the problems with keeping IGBTs cool and isolated for some reason.
 
Your unit is outdoor only in climates like ours. In really cold areas you need to come up with some kind of internal heater. The latest version of the JuiceBox has a pair of power resistors for internal heat The LED display will get very sluggish. I think the main board will continue to function but in Southern California I have heard of snow but I have never seen it.
 
GlennD said:
Your unit is outdoor only in climates like ours. In really cold areas you need to come up with some kind of internal heater. The latest version of the JuiceBox has a pair of power resistors for internal heat The LED display will get very sluggish. I think the main board will continue to function but in Southern California I have heard of snow but I have never seen it.

hmmm, very interesting, thanks for the heads up, I didn't think of that.
 
VegasBrad said:
GlennD said:
Your unit is outdoor only in climates like ours. In really cold areas you need to come up with some kind of internal heater. The latest version of the JuiceBox has a pair of power resistors for internal heat The LED display will get very sluggish. I think the main board will continue to function but in Southern California I have heard of snow but I have never seen it.

hmmm, very interesting, thanks for the heads up, I didn't think of that.

I am planning to make a cold temperature heater with a 10K 10W resistor as soon as my 5 degree C temp sensors arrive from China. From the Amazon description they should work. I ordered a couple from Ebay but they would need to be inverted.
 
Glenn, out of curiosity from us here in Northern Colorado, what components are you concerned with regarding low temps? I know the LCD is a concern, but outside that what else do I need to look for here as we are hitting the low negatives? I'm thinking of building an outdoor unit for the side of my garage and it gets cold here.
-Alan
 
AlanSqB said:
Glenn, out of curiosity from us here in Northern Colorado, what components are you concerned with regarding low temps? I know the LCD is a concern, but outside that what else do I need to look for here as we are hitting the low negatives? I'm thinking of building an outdoor unit for the side of my garage and it gets cold here.

[Alan

I really do not know but I am planning to make a 5W heater that comes on at 5 degrees C. It is a one of those days project since I am waiting on parts.

I made an outdoor EVSE for a man in Georgia and no complaints so far. It is just that if the JuiceBox people saw the need I think it can be added for less than $20.
 
Just food for thought for you guys... instead of going with the standard LCD. why not put a OLED display in there and you won't have the sluggish response when cold so no need for a heater?

Chris/Linconmatic already has the libraries for OLED displays..

16x2 OLED at Adafruit... http://www.adafruit.com/products/82...oPd1xM2v6LFpcQE--yxsZKYhqSdll-gFLwaAkRS8P8HAQ

or spice it up!! (note, this would take a bit more work with the i2c lib)
http://www.adafruit.com/products/93...QBOsLtPjIrx6HIW5jF9mXV_Y6vM-UkahE0aAlWO8P8HAQ

Disclaimer: this was written during my first cup of coffee!
 
JasonA said:
Just food for thought for you guys... instead of going with the standard LCD. why not put a OLED display in there and you won't have the sluggish response when cold so no need for a heater?

Chris/Linconmatic already has the libraries for OLED displays..

16x2 OLED at Adafruit... http://www.adafruit.com/products/82...oPd1xM2v6LFpcQE--yxsZKYhqSdll-gFLwaAkRS8P8HAQ

or spice it up!! (note, this would take a bit more work with the i2c lib)
http://www.adafruit.com/products/93...QBOsLtPjIrx6HIW5jF9mXV_Y6vM-UkahE0aAlWO8P8HAQ

Disclaimer: this was written during my first cup of coffee!

I would say the price is the main thing. A blue OLDE at 27.95 or a blue LCD at $5 or a RGB display at $14.
 
Yep, cost would be the main factor. I upgraded my JB's 1.44" uLCD to 1.7" uOLED to have slightly more flexibility on the display. The latter cost me $60 from the distributor, Mouser Electronics. The list price from 4D Systems is $70.

Btw, the Arduino firmware controlled internal heater that comes with the latest JB H/W activates at -20C. Most digital/analog ICs rated for commercial use, have a minimum operating temperature of 0C. Industrial rated ICs have a minimum of -40C.
 
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