JuiceBox Basic Enhanced is sold

have A JuiceBox Basic 32A EVSE for sale.

This unit is enhanced with a Nick Sayer EV Sim II reading the Pilot and a Charging LED.
This unit is constructed in a heavy duty 8X8X4 inch junction box. This has a JuiceBox Basic EVSE board with a couple of added terminal blocks, a power supply board, a 12V power supply and a 50A 12V contactor. The input is by a 40A range cable with a molded 14-50 plug. The output J1772 cable is a used Rema 16 ft cable part number Rev -1 30C Type 3R.

Both L1 and L2 current is adjustable. L1 is set to 12A and L2 is set to 32A. The L2 max is 59A but the cable is only good for 32A The input cable has #8 conductors and the JJ1772 cable has #10 conductors. This unit charges my 2013 Leaf at 27A with no heating.

I purchased the main board to verify that it meets its claimed specifications and that it is safe.
From my tests it is a good no frills basic unit.

I am selling this ASIS but I guarantee it will work upon receipt. The price is $300 plus $25 for USA shipping. Local pickup in Anaheim is available. Payment is cash for local pickup or Paypal if I ship the EVSE.

It looks like they have reduced the price of the JuiceBox components so I will reduce the price to $275 plus $25 for shipping.

Interested in getting this and also new to the boards, as well as a new leaf owner. Will this charge at the 6.6kwH rate and how fast can it get to Oregon? Planning a trip in less than two weeks from Portland to San Diego.

I sent my other EVSE off to Colorado on Monday UPS and it is scheduled for Thursday delivery. Obviously you can pay for faster delivery but Ground should make it in plenty of time.

The EVSE will charge up to what the pilot is set for and up to the max of a car's charger. I tested the unit on my Leaf at 27.5A because that is all it will draw. If I still had my 2012 Leaf it would draw 16A.

Thanks for the info. I will PM you to make arrangements for purchase.

Glenn,
How do you set current? I don't see a button.

See the two yellow pots just above the label I installed? R25 sets the L1 pilot and R10 sets the L2 pilot.

Unless you set the pilot duty cycle with an oscilloscope it is pretty awkward and it would be hard to set exactly. That is why I added Nick Sayer's EV Sim II to measure the pilot.

GREAT BUY!!! Sorry I missed it! This is my first "official" post here as essentially a "guest" on this forum.

I'm in the process of getting one of these now myself, directly from EMW. I ordered the Basic product (and enclosure) with both sets of I/O cables and all available JB options. All available options raises the cost closer to $700 (including tax and shipping), but still less expensive than the majority of other well established company's L2 EVSEs out there. I believe the JB is way more versatile since it supports both L1 and L2 in the same unit. With the optional WiFi, LCD, Current Sensor and Remote, it has a lots of useful features that would rival ANY other EVSE on the market. I decided to have mine "pre-assembled" by EMW, which also adds to the total cost, but then there can be no disputes over a malfunctioning unit.

In the unit for sale here, the prior owner used his own customized (CANTEX) plastic case and did a well thought out packaging job of all internal components. EMW's basic case is aluminum, with no front panel mounted displays. It has dimensions of 11"(H) x 7"(W) x 3"(D). I'm planning to replace the aluminum cover plate with about a 1/8" thick sheet of plexiglass and mount the LCD inside the box underneath the plexiglass cover. Thus, I can monitor and operate the JB with the optional remote without a metal cover obstruction. This will look more like an "open source" EVSE, which is what it really is while being more user friendly as well.

I also purchased an optional AC Adapter Cord, a 12" NEMA 10-30P to NEMA14-50R, from EMW. Rather pricey at $49, but I couldn't find this particular item anywhere else online. It will come in handy to plug in to an old style, 240V, 30A drier outlet, while using my JB as a "portable" L2 EVSE. The standard AC input cord that comes with a JB has a NEMA 14-50P plug on one end, which is compatible with most RV Park electrical hookups, which is another "plus" for portability.

Digikey carries LCD frames. As I recall they are in the 3-4 dollar region. One I have used is prd250b-nd. If you have a 3D printer there is also some do it yourself stuff on thingiverse.com.

If I may ask, why did you sell your Juicebox? Was there anything you did not like about it?

I build up EVSE's as a hobby. I wanted to see if the JuiceBox worked as claimed. Given its super low price that is a concern. I found that it did.

Right now the parts for a basic unit are just $99. You have to add hardware, a case, and cables but it is a great deal for a very very basic unit. As supplied it does not even have a charging light.

Bare bones, without options, it is rather lacking in user friendliness. An externally viewable "charging light" and an access hole with a pop off cover for pilot adjustments would be nice. I decided to spend a little extra and opted for a fully loaded basic unit, pre-assembled by EMW, including the installation of I/O cables as well. That raises the cost, but it is still a "bargain" with all available optional features. However, I still need to replace the aluminum case cover with plexiglass to maximize user friendliness.

A completely pre-assembled (and tested) unit by the people who designed it is worth the extra cost to me, which makes the total price close to $700 OTD including CA Sales tax and shipping. That is still cheaper than buying a brand name EVSE and ending up with a lot less features.

If anybody living in SF Bay Area is interested, my existing Leviton L2 (32A) EVSE will be for sale ($750) still in mint condition. It comes with 4' and 25' I/O cables respectively and includes the Leviton wall mounting kit.

I am biased since I have made more OpenEVSE units than JuiceBox's. I do plan to make another basic unit when the parts arrive.

For a basic unit you can not beat the JuiceBox price. For a full featured unit I prefer a unit based on the OpenEVSE main board.

I saw a Deluxe JuiceBox under construction. That thing is huge!

I don't believe open-EVSE can be purchased "pre-assembled", so that was a deal breaker for me.

dsinned said:

I don't believe open-EVSE can be purchased "pre-assembled", so that is a deal breaker for me.

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I truly think that if you want a preassembled UL approved unit then you should keep your Leviton unit.

When you UL approve a unit you basically freeze the design. If it is changed in any way you have to resubmit it.

This is why the OpenEVSE, JuiceBox, and Ingineer's mod will never be UL approved. In addition the JuiceBox uses Dostar quality but not UL approved cables. I have used a couple but the Chinese will never pay over 25K for approval.

GlennD said:

dsinned said:

I don't believe open-EVSE can be purchased "pre-assembled", so that is a deal breaker for me.

Click to expand...

I truly think that if you want a preassembled UL approved unit then you should keep your Leviton unit.

When you UL approve a unit you basically freeze the design. If it is changed in any way you have to resubmit it.

This is why the OpenEVSE, JuiceBox, and Ingineer's mod will never be UL approved. In addition the JuiceBox uses Dostar quality but not UL approved cables. I have used a couple but the Chinese will never pay over 25K for approval.

Click to expand...

That's not a fair implication... Many(most?) things manufactured in China or manufactured for Chinese companies are NRTL certified.

I agree though, if you aren't comfortable building a JuiceBox/OpenEVSE I think it's a bit irresponsible for someone to sell you one preassembled. They are both kits that IMO should only be used by someone willing to take on the risk of a DIY kit who hopefully has the skills to troubleshoot and properly use them.

QueenBee said:

That's not a fair implication... Many(most?) things manufactured in China or manufactured for Chinese companies are NRTL certified.

I agree though, if you aren't comfortable building a JuiceBox/OpenEVSE I think it's a bit irresponsible for someone to sell you one preassembled. They are both kits that IMO should only be used by someone willing to take on the risk of a DIY kit who hopefully has the skills to troubleshoot and properly use them.

Click to expand...

I know the ITT cables that Leviton uses have the UL RU mark on them, I have a Yazaki cable here with the RU mark. I am sure it was made somewhere in Asia. Granted Yazaki cables are more expensive. Amazon wants $169 for a 30A 20Ft one.

My existing Leviton model EVB32-5ML (7.7kW) L2 EVSE is "UL listed", so that is why I think it is worth as much as $750 to sell used, although it is still in mint condition. I paid about $1500 (new) for itl. :-(

There sure has been a lot of Open-Source/JuiceBox "bashing" on all the forums over this one issue, but nary a soul has brought up the fact that NONE of these products are FCC approved either. They have switching power supplies inside and digital electronic circuits, so why is this not also an "agency compliance" requirement as well? Am I missing something here?

Furthermore, a high voltage "DIY" kit is what I beleive makes these so risky. To save money, many people will be inclined to go the "DIY" route and probably don't really have much if any high voltage electrical wiring experience to justify the risk. I suspect, some folks will wire them into their garages without the help of a "licensed" Electrician; also to save money. And even without professional help, will anyone be filing from their cities for an electrical permit to insure everything is installed within code? Even some Electrician's may be tempted to skimp on infrastructure wiring and service panel work to save the homeowner a buck as well.

My point, "saving money" is the fastest way I know to cut corners on safety and that quite often starts with DIY projects in general. I'm just saying . . .

I, for one, think both these low cost, EVSE suppliers are well implemented designs. In the hands of a customer, it is the "assembly work" that might be questionable. Even with good quality and all UL recognized components, shoddy workmanship can compromise the safety of almost any DIY project.

I think all of the designs are safe. UL approval really depends on your situation. I do not live in Los Angeles but I have heard that the inspector has to find that UL listing to sign off on the install.

In general it is better to have a "RV" 14-50 receptical installed. Get it signed off and then do your own thing.

I concur and seem to remember that only two counties in the United States "require" UL approvals, Cook County and LA. Official (and costly) UL approval does not guarantee 100% consumer product safety; it is mostly for marketing and fire safety insurance purposes for products to have unrestricted sales in North America. Not only for consumers, but a lot of commercial sales as well. For that matter, I do not see any "RoHS" approvals, or the latest directive, RoHS-II, or CE mark on any of these products, now required for sales in the EU. I wouldn't know, but if any PCBAs have traditional Sn-Pb leads, where the Pb content of the board exceeds 1000ppm, they will not meet the EU's RoHS directive signed into law for over a decade.