30A Barbouri OpenEVSE with current display is sold

I have a Barbouri OpenEVSE L1 or L2 30A with current display for sale.

This unit has a Barbouri Ver 4.21 EVSE board modified for the GFCI test and current display, A blue LCD display with select button, A 30A 12V coil Potter and Brumfield relay, GFCI and Current coils, and a 12V 1.5A power supply. The input cable is a 40A GE range cable with a 14-50 plug. The output cable is an unused Yakizu 30A 15 foot J1772 cable.

This is unit and it requires a 40A circuit breaker. It is loaded with version 3.22 firmware with the Command Line Interface ((CLI). The plywood mounting plate is included.

This is sold ASIS but I guarantee it will work upon receipt. Local pickup in Anaheim near Disneyland is available.

This is $365 plus $25 for CONUS UPS Ground shipping. Payment is cash for local pickup or Paypal if I ship the EVSE.

This is temporally not available. I had a previous user came by with one where the relay has failed. I loaned him this one while I order a a relay.

This is available again. It was used to charge a Volt for a few days while I changed out the relay on the other unit. I support what I build.

Is the charging amps adjustable?

With the correct adapter will this unit work on 110 volts too?

I may occassionaly want to use a 30amp 110v RV outlet so if it will work on 110v, i will need to dial it back to about 20 charging amps.

can you add a timer feature to this unit so I can plug it in now but it won't start charging for several hours? If so, what would that add to the cost?

thanks

Sorry, this is strictly a 240V unit. It is designed for fixed use. . The current is adjustable in 2A steps from 10A to 50A. No current EV uses more than 40A except a Tesla with dual chargers.

The Mercedes B and the RAV4 EV charge at 40A bur everything else is 30A or less. My Leaf charges at 27.5A and that is all it will take regardless of a higher EVSE setting. The car takes what it needs up to the max.

I may go with a B when my lease is up but I will charge it at 32A, not 40A since I do not have the power available.

I got this mixed up with my other unit for sale. This is strictly 240V but I could change out the relay to 12V for dual voltage use. A 12V relay costs $13. I can add a real time clock board but I do not have any on hand. It is a 30A or less unit. I got in 2 12V relays yesterday so I could convert it.

This has been upgraded to a 12V relay for L1 or L2 use.

I have a couple of RTC boards coming from China but I have none on hand. To add one would increase the cost $10. I would expect then in a couple of weeks.

GlennD said:

I have a couple of RTC boards coming from China but I have none on hand. To add one would increase the cost $10. I would expect then in a couple of weeks.

Click to expand...

a couple weeks wait is not a problem. I don't see it as a "have to have" its more of a "there have been several occasions where it would be nice to charge up quicker than the factory trickle charger"

with the RTC, does that mean I could delay the charging start time? I want to be able to take advantage of the built in climate timer to warm up my car before I leave for work in the morning but it only seems to work if the car is plugged in.

30amps is plenty, I'm not looking for more and like you said the car won't take any more.
I'm more concerned with being able to turn it down if I have something else stuck in the garage and have to plug the car in under the RV port with the 110v 30amp RV plug

I'm kinda liking the functions of the juicebox premium but would rather support someone from here, on this forum, working out of his house than a business and even with the 2 upgrades (RTC & 12v relay) your price is much more attractive!

post back when you have the RTC boards

Thanks!

The built in OpenEVSE RTC basically opens a defined window for charging. The default is 5 min after midnight and 5 min before 7 AM. It can be set to any single start and stop time. I went to work at 6AM so the preheat worked fine since it was within that window. Tony Williams has a tiny window closing at 5AM so in that case preheat at 6AM would not work.

I used the timer because I wanted to charge my leaf to 80% at home and at work. Pushing the timer over-ride button allowed me to charge at work but it also disabled the 80%.

Using the EVSE timer avoided that problem. Since the current cars only charge to 100% that may no longer be a problem.

Phil Childs came by and I was charging his car at 32A, I was also charging my Leaf at 24A. The dryer and the air conditioner in my work room must have been on the same leg since I blew my 100A breaker for the first time. At least I know it works! The breaker box was hot from the sun shining on it so that may have been a factor.

I guess even turning down the power does not work if you are a power hog.

GlennD said:

The built in OpenEVSE RTC basically opens a defined window for charging. The default is 5 min after midnight and 5 min before 7 AM. It can be set to any single start and stop time. I went to work at 6AM so the preheat worked fine since it was within that window. Tony Williams has a tiny window closing at 5AM so in that case preheat at 6AM would not work.

I used the timer because I wanted to charge my leaf to 80% at home and at work. Pushing the timer over-ride button allowed me to charge at work but it also disabled the 80%.

Using the EVSE timer avoided that problem. Since the current cars only charge to 100% that may no longer be a problem.

Click to expand...

That all sounds good to me.

my average day is only 45-50 miles so I don't have to charge at work and I am trying to guess how long to charge (overnight at home) to stay under the 80% even though I'm told its not as big an issue with the 2015's as it was in the earlier years.

droolingpiston said:

GlennD said:

The built in OpenEVSE RTC basically opens a defined window for charging. The default is 5 min after midnight and 5 min before 7 AM. It can be set to any single start and stop time. I went to work at 6AM so the preheat worked fine since it was within that window. Tony Williams has a tiny window closing at 5AM so in that case preheat at 6AM would not work.

I used the timer because I wanted to charge my leaf to 80% at home and at work. Pushing the timer over-ride button allowed me to charge at work but it also disabled the 80%.

Using the EVSE timer avoided that problem. Since the current cars only charge to 100% that may no longer be a problem.

Click to expand...

That all sounds good to me.

my average day is only 45-50 miles so I don't have to charge at work and I am trying to guess how long to charge (overnight at home) to stay under the 80% even though I'm told its not as big an issue with the 2015's as it was in the earlier years.

Click to expand...

I think that trying to maintain 80% would result in a lot of work. Basically you would have to keep track of the energy used and set a window to replace that. Allegedly the 2015 battery does not mind charging to 100%.

My old mileage was 19.5 miles to work so I did not have to charge there however I got permission to charge there. That essentially cut my energy expense in half. I paid to go to work and the city paid for me to go home.

I think that trying to maintain 80% would result in a lot of work. Basically you would have to keep track of the energy used and set a window to replace that. Allegedly the 2015 battery does not mind charging to 100%.

My old mileage was 19.5 miles to work so I did not have to charge there however I got permission to charge there. That essentially cut my energy expense in half. I paid to go to work and the city paid for me to go home.[/quote]

You are being generous splitting it half on you and half on them. I would have done most/all my charging at work if I could.
Using the dashboard guess-o-meter for hours it will take to charge to 100%, I usually just subtract 2 hours from that and it gets me close to the goal.

Now that i'm using a 15amp rated, 24hr timer with the factory trickle charger, I acutally subtract 3hrs from the guess-o-meter time to charge to 100%. I let it charge from as soon as I get home to the minus 3hrs time then have it come back on 1hr before leaving so the climate timer will work just before leaving.

I gave up my OpenEVSE board when there was a delay getting boards. I charged for a week with the supplied L1 charger. It worked but it was so SLOW! OHS Park was faster at suppling a board than Chris"s well deserved vacation so I switched to a Barbouri board. Same thing thing only slightly different.

My co-workers also said that I should have let the city pay for all my charging but I wanted to be fair. I sent an email to my supervisor for permission to charge. It must have been forwarded all over the city since I finally got permission from the Office of Sustainability. They paid for a TED to monitor it so they could get green stars.

I have now been retired slightly over a year and I just changed my car insurance to less than 7500 miles annually. I typically charge twice a week.

Hi Glenn
Please PM me to discuss offline. I tried to PM you but the message stayed in the outbox. Thank you.

I received your PM.

I currently do not have any RTC modules on hand. I do have a RGB display with RTC. I can substitute this for $25. This makes the total $390 with a color display and a real time clock.

I can include a L1 to 14-50R adapter for $20.

Well, I got in the DS1307s and the 32Khz crystals so I populated the display from the top. It is working well with the real time clock. My total cost was around $7 so I am selling the OpenEVSE modified for L1 and L2 plus the real time clock for $372.50 plus $25 for shipping. Local pickup in Anaheim is available.

Since I got in the real time chips I can sub a color RGB display with RTC for $20 extra. I had one that was waiting for a chip.

If you are local and you would like to look at it just PM me and I will get back to you with my address and phone number.

The stand alone boards have still not shown up but it does not matter since Chris designed the display boards with room for the RTC.

viethoc said:

Hi Glenn
Please PM me to discuss offline. I tried to PM you but the message stayed in the outbox. Thank you.

Click to expand...

In this system the message stays in the outbox until the recipient reads it. I have to wait until I log on to read it. At that time it will be removed from your out box.

I have sent messages that are received almost immediately. I would guess that they use a smartphone. I use the old fashioned way of checking several times a day.

Very cool that you have the clock and dual voltage in and working !

Can this unit show the car's state of charge?

Does this unit have the ability to show or record the total kWh transferred this charging session?

Have you looked into adding a wi-fi board to the charger assembly? So a guy can check on things from his home computer with out going back out to the garage.

droolingpiston said:

Very cool that you have the clock and dual voltage in and working !

Can this unit show the car's state of charge?

Does this unit have the ability to show or record the total kWh transferred this charging session?

Have you looked into adding a wi-fi board to the charger assembly? So a guy can check on things from his home computer with out going back out to the garage.

Click to expand...

As far as I know no EVSE can show the state of charge or the total power transferred. The only thing the EVSE knows is when charging is requested.

Carwings can show the state of charge if you have it available.

I only build EVSE's that interest me so sorry, I have no interest in wifi. If you disable the RTC Lincomatic's WAPI is available on the serial port.

If you want to keep track of the energy used than adding a refurbished power meter as suggested in another thread is a good idea. If you search there is a thread with photos of the installation. The meters are inexpensive on Ebay.