Securing Nissan brick for airport or other public charging

[smkettner]

OK I have not seen this yet so here is my method:

Lay the brick behind the battery



Lay the coiled cord toward the front



Insert J connector and lay the cord snug in the front corner along the weatherstrip



Draw the extension cord same along the other side and close the hood



Side view ready to plug in



The extension cord shown I believe was #16 wire. After close to an hour the wire was fine but the connectors became very hot. It is an old cord and probably worn connectors. My #12 wire extension cord fit the slot just fine so I have to recommend the heavier cord. I have used this HD cord for 6 hours continuous with no heat issues.

[TangoKilo]

+1

[DaveinOlyWA]

great idea which makes me think that a PERMANENT storage solution might be possible under the hood. the heat generated is negligible (during winter its NON EXISTENT!) and there is no spinning thises and thats to worry about. might be a bit easier to pull from the front than from the back. no uncoiling, no mess.

very nice!

[garygid]

It would seem that the "wise" Standards Committee did not really consider vandalism a sufficiently significant issue.

So, perhaps a "next mod"(?) for charging:

1. Remove the "expensive" J1772 cord and Plug from the Brick EVSE (or see #3 below), and hard-wire the "EVSE" to the INSIDE of the LEAF's J1772 socket, using a double-pole switch to connect a suitable Proximity circuit and the Control-Pilot circuit. Then, the standard J1772 socket can still be used by other EVSEs at public charging stations.

2. Put the exrension cord on a "Retractor" spool (sufficient room behind the grill?). Then, just pull out the amount of (easily-replacable) extension cord you need to reach the 120v or 240v socket, and "lock" the spool so that more cord cannot be pulled out and cut off.
OR
Perhaps just install a male "socket" in some convenient spot (near the switch in #1, perhaps in the charging-hatch area) to plug in the outboard end of your (usually short) extension cord.

3. Instead of using the expensive modified Nissan EVSE (around $1000), use the "Open EVSE". With everything needed for this job (no J1772 Plug or cord), probably only about $150 or so.

Just ideas.
I need to look at the spaces and the charging-hatch area.

Any ideas for a good 240v-20A rated 25-foot (12 gauge + ground) retractor spool?

[abasile]

There was an interesting discussion on retractable charge cords, etc., on PluginCars.com: http://www.plugincars.com/unconvenient- ... 08206.html

[garygid]

Something like the Tangle Free Cord Retractor might work.

We might need a more (heavy duty) capacity to handle a 25-foot 12-gauge extension cord.

[91040]

I thought that the point of the EVSE in close proximity to the outlet was for safety. Now if the GFCI was in the plug of the extension cord...

[garygid]

This is no less safe than plugging in the "brick"
to the 120v "wall" socket.

To Connect:
Open hatch, pull out extension cord, plug into "shore" power, flip the "Internal/External EVSE" switch to "Internal", and close the hatch, "clamping" the extension cord.

To disconnect:
Open hatch, flip switch to "External EVSE", disconnect from shore power, retract cord, close hatch.

NOTE: If the switch is accidently left in the "Internal" position, the LEAF would sense being plugged in, and you will not be able to drive the car.

[dgpcolorado]

If using a reel or coiled cord, I'd be concerned with it getting too hot, especially on hot days (sun heating the hood). Although, I suppose, 120 Volt charging doesn't draw all that much current.

[hpage]

Great ideas! Note that weatherproof cable reels are big and expensive:

http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=8842