powersurge
Posts: 1427
Joined: Wed Oct 21, 2015 10:24 am
Delivery Date: 06 Dec 2014
Location: Long Island, NY

Re: How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

Thu Jul 25, 2019 4:37 am

Valdemar wrote:
Fri Jul 19, 2019 11:10 pm
LeftieBiker wrote:
Valdemar wrote:I'm at 156k miles and there's now noise seemingly coming from the gear. It started as a faint gear like clatter at low speeds a while back, but now I can hear it on the freeway when the motor sends torque to the wheels, its kind of an odd noise like a quiet ICE engine running. Gear oil never changed. I'm guessing too late now, huh? Dealer once confirmed the noise was coming from the motor/gear area.
Once you are sure it's the reduction gears, you could try an additive with extra moly, or whatever they use these days to cushion mating gear surfaces - if you can find one compatible with the recommended (fresh!) oil. The good news is you can likely find a used assembly in good shape. I don't know what the Leaf reduction/differential setup looks like: is the motor mated right to it...?
I guess it won't hurt to change it, sounds like an easy enough job. I'm at a point where a need to spend $500 on the car will be enough of a reason to send it to junkers. The dealer couldn't pinpoint the exact location of the noise, but given the nature of it I'd be very surprised if it is not the gear. I have heard noisy diffs, it is similar.
I cant believe that you currently have an electric vehicle and are willing to junk it for only a $500 repair.... I bet you that if you change the transmission fluid and put in a little bottle of "Prolong", it car will continue to run... Especially since the transmission is only a 1 speed diff....

Valdemar
Posts: 2621
Joined: Tue May 10, 2011 10:32 pm
Delivery Date: 09 Sep 2011
Location: Oak Park, CA

Re: How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

Thu Jul 25, 2019 8:58 am

Even with a used gear it looks more like a $1,000+ repair, which is about or more what the car is worth given its accident history, condition, aging 2nd battery, and mileage. I will change the oil, but I feel I did enough time in a Leaf, and a complete gearbox failure will be good enough of a reason to write it off. I may even be able to sell it to battery harvesters for some pocket cash - works for me.
'11 SL, totaled
-1CB@33k/21mo, -2CB@53k/33mo, -3CB@68k/41mo, -4CB(41.5AHr)@79k/49mo, -5CB(38.85AHr)@87.5k/54mo
-0CB(66.14AHr)@87.5k/54mo (BBB), -1CB(53.92Ahr)@140k/29mo,
51.1AHr, SOH 80%, 150k miles

9kW Solar

powersurge
Posts: 1427
Joined: Wed Oct 21, 2015 10:24 am
Delivery Date: 06 Dec 2014
Location: Long Island, NY

Re: How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

Mon Jul 29, 2019 8:16 am

You can get a transmission from a wreck... That would not be a major repair.

Valdemar
Posts: 2621
Joined: Tue May 10, 2011 10:32 pm
Delivery Date: 09 Sep 2011
Location: Oak Park, CA

Re: How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

Mon Jul 29, 2019 4:42 pm

powersurge wrote:
Mon Jul 29, 2019 8:16 am
You can get a transmission from a wreck... That would not be a major repair.
You mean like go to a place called "Pick a Part", unscrew it yourself, bring it home, and install it in your garage? This is way above the amount of effort and time I want to exert on this. Buying one from a dismantler will set me back $300-$400, and figure 5 hour labor charge to get it installed at a shop, that is if everything goes as planned. So I'll be looking at about 1k after all, maybe a bit less with some luck. And all that for what? To keep a 2-3 bar capacity loser with salvage title going? I may warm up to this idea when the time comes, but at this time junking it or donating it to charity seems like an easier way out.
'11 SL, totaled
-1CB@33k/21mo, -2CB@53k/33mo, -3CB@68k/41mo, -4CB(41.5AHr)@79k/49mo, -5CB(38.85AHr)@87.5k/54mo
-0CB(66.14AHr)@87.5k/54mo (BBB), -1CB(53.92Ahr)@140k/29mo,
51.1AHr, SOH 80%, 150k miles

9kW Solar

powersurge
Posts: 1427
Joined: Wed Oct 21, 2015 10:24 am
Delivery Date: 06 Dec 2014
Location: Long Island, NY

Re: How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

Tue Jul 30, 2019 4:05 am

Valdemar wrote:
Mon Jul 29, 2019 4:42 pm
powersurge wrote:
Mon Jul 29, 2019 8:16 am
You can get a transmission from a wreck... That would not be a major repair.
You mean like go to a place called "Pick a Part", unscrew it yourself, bring it home, and install it in your garage? This is way above the amount of effort and time I want to exert on this. Buying one from a dismantler will set me back $300-$400, and figure 5 hour labor charge to get it installed at a shop, that is if everything goes as planned. So I'll be looking at about 1k after all, maybe a bit less with some luck. And all that for what? To keep a 2-3 bar capacity loser with salvage title going? I may warm up to this idea when the time comes, but at this time junking it or donating it to charity seems like an easier way out.
Forgive me for being so optimistic towards repairing your car...

I am a man that keeps his cars for decades. I have two cars that are entering 20 years old, and others more than 12 years old. I bought them NEW, and have maintained them myself. I expect to get another 10 more years out of them.

So, when you say you have an ELECTRIC car that needs a new transmission or a battery, a $1000 repair is a mere mechanic's bill for most people's ICE vehicles. Even tires and brakes on a car will run you more than $1000. If you fix it, you will still be able to keep your electric car (a rare entity even today). After all, Having a 2-3 bar loser is not the kiss of death. If your car had structural problems like body rot, I could see dumping it, but most Leafs are still in great condition and good candidates for repair...

The problem is that most of us with Leafs are suffering from "little boy toy syndrome" (which is the "little boy" inside of us desperately wants the working item that we already have to break or be NO GOOD so that we can go out and buy the newest, upgraded toy we want). We have all done this with cars, motorcycles, bicycles, computers, electronics, and power tools... You can admit it... I also wish I could get the new Leaf E+!!

Keep in mind the high prices that the new cars are going for, and the fact that you are currently a member of that club for a very modest amount.. I am sorry, but I refuse to pay $45,000 for a new Leaf, no matter how big the battery.

I will continue to run my leaf and fix the mechanicals, just like all the ICE cars I have fixed in the past. When the time comes, I will replace the battery as cheaply as I can. Maybe even reach 150-200K miles on that car!! Darn, If I lived close to you I would buy your car myself if you dont want it!!!!

Valdemar
Posts: 2621
Joined: Tue May 10, 2011 10:32 pm
Delivery Date: 09 Sep 2011
Location: Oak Park, CA

Re: How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

Tue Jul 30, 2019 7:42 am

powersurge wrote:
Tue Jul 30, 2019 4:05 am
Valdemar wrote:
Mon Jul 29, 2019 4:42 pm
powersurge wrote:
Mon Jul 29, 2019 8:16 am
You can get a transmission from a wreck... That would not be a major repair.
You mean like go to a place called "Pick a Part", unscrew it yourself, bring it home, and install it in your garage? This is way above the amount of effort and time I want to exert on this. Buying one from a dismantler will set me back $300-$400, and figure 5 hour labor charge to get it installed at a shop, that is if everything goes as planned. So I'll be looking at about 1k after all, maybe a bit less with some luck. And all that for what? To keep a 2-3 bar capacity loser with salvage title going? I may warm up to this idea when the time comes, but at this time junking it or donating it to charity seems like an easier way out.
Forgive me for being so optimistic towards repairing your car...

I am a man that keeps his cars for decades. I have two cars that are entering 20 years old, and others more than 12 years old. I bought them NEW, and have maintained them myself. I expect to get another 10 more years out of them.

So, when you say you have an ELECTRIC car that needs a new transmission or a battery, a $1000 repair is a mere mechanic's bill for most people's ICE vehicles. Even tires and brakes on a car will run you more than $1000. If you fix it, you will still be able to keep your electric car (a rare entity even today). After all, Having a 2-3 bar loser is not the kiss of death. If your car had structural problems like body rot, I could see dumping it, but most Leafs are still in great condition and good candidates for repair...

The problem is that most of us with Leafs are suffering from "little boy toy syndrome" (which is the "little boy" inside of us desperately wants the working item that we already have to break or be NO GOOD so that we can go out and buy the newest, upgraded toy we want). We have all done this with cars, motorcycles, bicycles, computers, electronics, and power tools... You can admit it... I also wish I could get the new Leaf E+!!

Keep in mind the high prices that the new cars are going for, and the fact that you are currently a member of that club for a very modest amount.. I am sorry, but I refuse to pay $45,000 for a new Leaf, no matter how big the battery.

I will continue to run my leaf and fix the mechanicals, just like all the ICE cars I have fixed in the past. When the time comes, I will replace the battery as cheaply as I can. Maybe even reach 150-200K miles on that car!! Darn, If I lived close to you I would buy your car myself if you dont want it!!!!
No, I get it. My other 2 cars that are older than 10 years now and I have no plans to replace them any time soon. For me to keep a car going I need to have an "emotional" connection with it. I can tolerate the Leaf but that's about it. I will probably feel a relief when it is gone, but it won't happen until I squeeze every last bit out of it before it requires a significant investment, like a new gear box, which btw may not happen for another couple of years anyway. As for losing 3 bars, I've been there. Yes you can deal with it but I don't want to go through this again and there's simply no way a I'm paying 8-9k for a new pack.
'11 SL, totaled
-1CB@33k/21mo, -2CB@53k/33mo, -3CB@68k/41mo, -4CB(41.5AHr)@79k/49mo, -5CB(38.85AHr)@87.5k/54mo
-0CB(66.14AHr)@87.5k/54mo (BBB), -1CB(53.92Ahr)@140k/29mo,
51.1AHr, SOH 80%, 150k miles

9kW Solar

Oilpan4
Gold Member
Posts: 722
Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2019 10:51 pm
Delivery Date: 10 May 2018
Leaf Number: 004270

Re: How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

Wed Sep 11, 2019 1:37 pm

I changed my leafs oil at 68,000 miles.
I would recommend changing it before then.
The oil was pretty dark and the magnets were fairly covered with iron sluge.
50k is probably about when it should be changed.
2011 white SL leaf with 2014 batt.
Chargers: Panasonic brick moded for 240v, duosida 16a 240v and a 10kw setec portable CHAdeMO
Location: 88103

powersurge
Posts: 1427
Joined: Wed Oct 21, 2015 10:24 am
Delivery Date: 06 Dec 2014
Location: Long Island, NY

Re: How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

Thu Sep 12, 2019 6:40 am

Oilpan4 wrote:
Wed Sep 11, 2019 1:37 pm
I changed my leafs oil at 68,000 miles.
I would recommend changing it before then.
The oil was pretty dark and the magnets were fairly covered with iron sluge.
50k is probably about when it should be changed.
Yup, this is a maintenance item that I do not mind.... Actually changing the transmission fluid gives me something to do on the Leaf. I have been having deep feelings of guilt in the five years of ownership because I did not have to fix anything....

Well... I had to change the front driver's ABS wheel speed sensor, which really ticked me off, as I have NEVER had to do this on ANY of my cars over the years!!

Oilpan4
Gold Member
Posts: 722
Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2019 10:51 pm
Delivery Date: 10 May 2018
Leaf Number: 004270

Re: How To: Reduction Gear Oil Change

Thu Sep 12, 2019 8:19 am

Putting 2 new tires on, sucked out, refilled brake fluid and blead the brakes, running over a tractor trailer tire tread at night which damaged the under side a little and changing the transaxle oil are the only maintenance I have done in 2 years.
I will probably need 2 more fresh Michellin energy saver A/S tires before this winter.

The ecopia tires lasted from 2010 to 2018 and 2019. If they had been properly rotated and the alignment checked by the last guy a set of those tires would have lasted about 60k to 65k miles and over 8 years.

Don't miss changing motor oil every few months at all.
I don't think people realize how much owning an ice car sucks.
2011 white SL leaf with 2014 batt.
Chargers: Panasonic brick moded for 240v, duosida 16a 240v and a 10kw setec portable CHAdeMO
Location: 88103

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