Unplug Level 1 Charger?

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heathATL

Active member
Joined
Nov 6, 2014
Messages
28
Location
Atlanta
Did a search, but couldn't find the answer... If I leave my level 1 charger plugged into my home garage outlet, will it use a small amount of electricity? Should I unplug it while I'm gone?

Thanks!
 
heathATL said:
Did a search, but couldn't find the answer... If I leave my trickle charger plugged into my home garage outlet, will it use a small amount of electricity? Should I unplug it while I'm gone?

Thanks!
It will use a minuscule amount, just like everything else plugged in. If you are worried about it unplug it otherwise you will not be able to tell on your electricity bill.
 
Keep in mind that plugging and unplugging every day will place wear on the receptacle contacts. Unlike the LEAF's receptacle which is rated for tens of thousands of plug/unplug cycles, a typical household outlet is not. If you prefer to unplug every day I'd recommend installing a very high quality outlet, such as a Hospital Grade outlet.
 
Better still, if you want to unplug (there is no need to, unless you have to take the EVSE with you) install a switched outlet, with a switch rated for at least 15 amps.
 
Why unplug? It might come in handy to have the EVSE if you get out in the boonies and don't have enough battery to get home.

Why leave it plugged in? Plugging and unplugging every day may eventually wear out an electrical outlet. Better quality outlets could last longer, but common builder's grade outlets weren't intended for thousands of plug/unplug cycles.

Bob
 
yes it uses power but if you are concerned, I would look at your cable box which uses a LOT of power, then your wi-fi device, then your DVD player (some use almost as much as the cable box) then your stove, etc... but I am guessing you won't do anything about them so don't worry about it.

the wear and tear on the socket isn't really worth it. I think someone figured it was roughly 70 cents per month or so? so if you did unplug it all the time and replaced the outlet once a year, you would literally break even...
 
The Climate Control Timer interface/usability: Set the time that the heat/cooling function goes OFF and it automatically turns itself on 30 minutes earlier. So if you want to warm or cool the cabin before leaving at 7:30am, set the Climate Control Timer to 7:30. It will then go on at 7:00am and off at 7:30am. The time period is pre-set to 30 minutes. The settings allow for a climate ready time based on 10 minute intervals, so it can be set for 7:40 or 7:50, but not 7:45.
 
I was unplugging it every day. Or rather, I was unplugging the 12 gauge extension cord every day. I felt it might be using power, and also I didn't want to leave the cord powered.

I got sick of doing this, and the only outlet I could access anyway was on the ceiling of the garage (garage door opener is plugged into it) so I had a long cord running from the ceiling, out the bottom of the garage door and out to the driveway where the car is parked. I bought a Clipper Creek LS-20 (I have the 2011 with 3.3 kw charger and there was not enough capacity on the panels of my 1940's house to warrant any type of future proofing outside of using thicker wire) and had an electrician install it so that it was hanging outside, on the hose, next to the driveway.

I don't think it's particularly worse than a phone charger, XBox, cordless phone in terms of energy draw per day though, even when not connected to the car, but the light is still on it, so you know it's drawing SOME power.

I agree with the suggestion to use a switched outlet... eventually the plug will be so worn, it will fall out by itself.
 
Yeah it probably would work. But I don't think I have any extras laying around, so I'm assuming a new power strip would cost more than the minor amount of savings.
 
Vincerama said:
Would a power strip work? They typically have switched on it, so you can avoid any "phantom loads"

The power strip would degrade one of the safety features of the EVSE, which is to minimize any potential contact with live wires. This is why the outlet cord is so short. Not only would a power strip extend this, it would also expose several free live outlets to children, objects and liquids.

Also the idea of an inline switch, whether power strip or wall switch, is not without problems. You generally don't want to be using these type of switches to turn 12 amp loads on and off. Arcing can become an issue. While you may intend to only use the switch when the vehicle is not charging, that doesn't necessarily prevent someone else from doing so or you from doing it accidentally.

It's not worth it for 4 watts savings, imho. You can save orders of magnitude more power by very slight changes in driving habits.
 
Turning any electrical device off and on at the source shortens the life because of expansion and contraction of components. Regardless, it is pointless to do this with an EVSE unless you are the type that goes around the house every night and pulls every plug from the wall. In that case you have bigger issues to deal with than insignificant parasitic loads. :roll:
 
Vincerama said:
I was unplugging it every day. Or rather, I was unplugging the 12 gauge extension cord every day. I felt it might be using power, and also I didn't want to leave the cord powered.

I got sick of doing this, and the only outlet I could access anyway was on the ceiling of the garage (garage door opener is plugged into it) so I had a long cord running from the ceiling, out the bottom of the garage door and out to the driveway where the car is parked. I bought a Clipper Creek LS-20 (I have the 2011 with 3.3 kw charger and there was not enough capacity on the panels of my 1940's house to warrant any type of future proofing outside of using thicker wire) and had an electrician install it so that it was hanging outside, on the hose, next to the driveway.

I don't think it's particularly worse than a phone charger, XBox, cordless phone in terms of energy draw per day though, even when not connected to the car, but the light is still on it, so you know it's drawing SOME power.

I agree with the suggestion to use a switched outlet... eventually the plug will be so worn, it will fall out by itself.

its not but FYI; I have split the casing of my power brick for my phones from excessive use. luckily I had not pulled too hard so was able to save any connections from breaking. the charger lives (with a bit of duct tape...)
 
I've found both the L1 (OEM) and L2 (CC LCS-20) both use about 2W of power. When the car is connected and not charging, it's about 5W. I only measured 1 line of the L2 EVSE, as I didn't have an easy way to measure both legs. This means the L2 EVSE could use 4W idle, and 10W power.

Another strange thing. 121V at the outlet, charging on L1 only pulls about 10.5A. Never seen it pull more than 1300W for more than a couple seconds. Should be pulling around 1440W. Don't think it's an accuracy problem. 1800W rated hair dryer was pulling 1790-1850W.
 
It's a small amount of power b ut they all add up so it's good to unplug when your not using it.

A Kill-o-watt meter can measure it and then you can decide if it's good or bad.

By the way replacing a light with a good USA made CREE LED light bulb can save a lot more than unplugging. They are made in NC and the best quality of any LED in the world. I love USA that is the best in the world like Tesla and CREE.
 
heathATL: You could consider replacing your (duplex?) receptacle in question with a receptacle that has a single outlet together with a switch that controls power to the outlet's hot (narrow spade) slot.
 
Vincerama said:
Would a power strip work? They typically have switched on it, so you can avoid any "phantom loads"


No never use one. Long extensions are also an issue even if 12G as many fail as they are poorly made. This issue is compounded in older homes and all the connections and switches add areas of failure and resistance.
 
When I used my stock charger, I left it plugged in. Only uses 2-3 watts at rest, and better for all components that it doesn't go through all those cycles and wear. If it makes you more comfy, use a 15 amp timer that only goes on at the times you want and there is not physical wear on the outlet... Get a level 2 charger, and forget all that headache..
 
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