AutoHaulersinc
Well-known member
So unfortunately the only options for trailer wiring on my 15 involve running a lead from the battery - difficult, but doable.
After spending about an hour determining if I was going to go thru the firewall or under the vehicle, I found that thru the firewall was my only option.
On the driver side there is a rubber boot that allows access thru the firewall, I very carefully poked a hole thru the upper part of it. The boot has an inner and outer wall so you need to poke thru 2 barriers. They are thin and I used a probe style electrical tester. Keep in mind there are other wires running thru the middle of the boot which is why I went thru the upper part - be careful not to poke or damage any of the other wires. There are 2 black electrical brain/boxes which are easily un-clipped that make access to the boot area easier. Feed your wire thru and make sure it is pointing down on the other side (the inside of the vehicle side) - fish enough in so that it drops down and then then check the inside of the vehicle, just left of the brake pedal. The kit from Curt cam with a good gauge wire which made the fishing easier.
I then fished it down from the inside and to the left and behind the left kick panel. and then to the rear on the vehicle, hiding it under the plastic panels on the floor.
The rest of the kit is relatively simple, there are some T connectors for the left and right tail light connectors which require you to remove the rear interior plastic panels....underneath the rear flooring there is a round black rubber grommet that I sliced slightly to hold/isolate the lead for the lights going back to the hitch area. Instead of dropping the rear pan I just used a fishwire from the hitch to the hole in the floor where the grommet is...
all in all the job took me about an hour and a half...
After spending about an hour determining if I was going to go thru the firewall or under the vehicle, I found that thru the firewall was my only option.
On the driver side there is a rubber boot that allows access thru the firewall, I very carefully poked a hole thru the upper part of it. The boot has an inner and outer wall so you need to poke thru 2 barriers. They are thin and I used a probe style electrical tester. Keep in mind there are other wires running thru the middle of the boot which is why I went thru the upper part - be careful not to poke or damage any of the other wires. There are 2 black electrical brain/boxes which are easily un-clipped that make access to the boot area easier. Feed your wire thru and make sure it is pointing down on the other side (the inside of the vehicle side) - fish enough in so that it drops down and then then check the inside of the vehicle, just left of the brake pedal. The kit from Curt cam with a good gauge wire which made the fishing easier.
I then fished it down from the inside and to the left and behind the left kick panel. and then to the rear on the vehicle, hiding it under the plastic panels on the floor.
The rest of the kit is relatively simple, there are some T connectors for the left and right tail light connectors which require you to remove the rear interior plastic panels....underneath the rear flooring there is a round black rubber grommet that I sliced slightly to hold/isolate the lead for the lights going back to the hitch area. Instead of dropping the rear pan I just used a fishwire from the hitch to the hole in the floor where the grommet is...
all in all the job took me about an hour and a half...
