Simple spare mod for a 2013 S lease

I really wanted to carry a spare 24/7 in my new 2013 S+QC, before our driving season ramps up, and we start doing some 1-2 QC hop road trips. As a lease, I didn't want to do the tuck under thing, nor did I want to cut the rear mat, etc.

--I wanted the smallest spare possible, to minimize cargo loss and weight, and I wanted to match my 16" steel wheels (I have the S with stock ecopias).

I went with a Jeep Compact Spare, in 125/90/16, cheap on fleabay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261548371679?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

which I think is cheaper/smaller/lighter than the Altima spare. I only plan to use it on the rear (will rotate tires if I get a front flat).

As warned on the forum, it does rub the rear caliper, so I got a thin spacer:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BW8VT4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
which works fine (I mounted it and test drove the spare for a couple miles, testing acceleration and hard braking). If I had to do it over, I might try to find a non-'universal' spacer. FYI, I still have 5 full rotations on the lug nuts (ok for strength).

--for mounting, I bought a 6' nylon tie down strap (breaking strength 600 lbs) and cut it in half. I looped one half through the rim and under the tie-down anchor used for the stock L1 EVSE, pulled it tight and tied a knot in it. The tire can still slide around sideways an 1" or so, and lift slightly, but it is not going to decapitate anyone in an accident.

--the little backpack for the L1 EVSE always bugged me. I placed the spare 'bowl up', and used the extra space within to hold a 50' 16/3 conductor extension cord (rated 13A) and the L1 EVSE, and tied both to the wheel using the other 3' of nylon strapping. I consider the EVSE and new cord to be 'emergency only', and not for routine use.

--Then I put a 18" circle of corrugated cardboard on top for support, and put a 24" spare cover over the whole shooting match:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002F66I8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

So, I now have a 5" thick, 24" diameter spare lying flat and tied down in the rear, with a nice black cover that matches the black cargo mat. And I lost the little backpack that was there (while still carrying the EVSE).

--I also bought a 1.5 ton jack from HarborFright. I fabb'ed a pouch for it from 1/8" packing foam sheet and lots of grey duct tape in 10 minutes, and stowed it in the left fender compartment.

What did I forget guys??

woodgeek said:

What did I forget guys??

Click to expand...

Pictures! I want to see how it looks stored in the car!

Got it.

Surprisingly small:

tucked in the corner nicely, and can't slide around.

Pulling back the cover, cardboard lid:


EVSE and cord inside spare:


All in all, I figure minus 1.3 cu ft of storage, more like 1.1 if you subtract the EVSE backpack space saved, and +40lbs.

Showing the height:

Not very tall, well below the rear gate, and rear seat base:

woodgeek said:

What did I forget guys??

Click to expand...

Lug wrench?

Volt3939 said:

Lug wrench?

Click to expand...

Comes included with the vehicle (in the fender storage) along with the v nice 12V air pump and bottle of dreaded goo.

I might have the leave the goo home now to 'save weight'. :lol:

Nice job, I like it.

I'm not sure that you have it anchored well enough. You have one end of the strap tied to the EVSE bag tie-down, and one end tied to the rim, correct? I'm assuming the strap runs vertically only, not horizontally? IIRC, the EVSE bag anchor is towards the front, so what is stopping the spare from flipping up in the rear? If nothing, the acceleration from a bad front end crash may well be able to snap that strap. Once a heavy object starts accelerating, it can accumulate a huge amount of energy, quickly.


That's why I used a bolt straight up through the rubber floor plug, with doubled strap steel holding it under the floor on the bottom, pulling the spare down 'into' the floor. I figured that with no movement allowed, and thus no acceleration relative to the car, the bolt didn't have to be huge to hold the spare in place in a crash...

BTW, my SV is also leased. I think that all I'll have to do to 'restore' the car is remove the spare and bolt, plug the hole in the floor plug with black silicone, and repair the tiny hole in the floor mat with black epoxy. Maybe I'll have to buy a new floor plug. Or make one.

I like the way you anchored your spare.

Actually, the strap is not a single vertical, really a loop running through the edge of the steel rim, the hub hole and under the anchor hook. So the 'radius' it occupies goes directly over the anchor, if that makes sense. The evse is tied to the spare with a separate loop.

The loop is tight enough that I can lift the tire <0.5" and 10° from the horizontal. Thinking about the angles (and the two strap legs) I think it would take a >500lb vertical load to break the loop, but the anchor would prob fail before that.

In most collisions the horizontal loads are bigger, however. Relevant to that, the tire is pressed firmly against three vertical 'walls' on its sides, front right, right and rear, that would take lateral loads in a collision. I just don't see those structural contact points failing to the point that the tire can pass completely through them (unlike the seat back higher up). IMO my strap is just to the keep the tire engaged on those three points, rather than sliding over or rotating above them, and to provide some lateral restraint if those partially collapsed.

IN other words, I feel it is really tucked in there snug, and it would take a lot of upward acceleration to break the anchor and pop it out of there. Not roll over upward acceleration (a couple g's), but vertical acceleration enough to collapse the roof at which point we would have other problems.

I see the sense of anchoring a spare well, and I get why Nissan anchors the 5 lb EVSE (although my dealer didn't). In actual use we frequently have loose stuff back there like backpacks, suitcases, groceries, that we never secure. I would be more worried about canned goods flying around in a dynamic accident than the spare with this tie down.

True enough. If I get the chance to pick up a smaller donut spare, I'm going to. The Altima spare is too big.

In truth, I got the jeep spare because it looked like a closer diameter match for the ecopias on the S than the Altima spare.

It's a whopping 1 cm thinner, 125 mm versus 135 mm. I'd keep what you have now.

There is an actual Leaf spare, on an alloy rim IIRC, because they gave the car a spare for countries that require them. I'd like one of those...

Nice setup, but in my opinion, your 16 awg extension cord, especially at 50' long, is a little weak. You should be using a 14 awg at least, or even 12 awg.

I'd agree with you 100% if I were intending to use it with any frequency, or indoors. The NEC, UL and the packaging say its good to 13A, nearly 20% above the L1 EVSE. That is good enough for me, since I'm using it 'never' and only outdoors.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extension_cord" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

woodgeek said:

I'd agree with you 100% if I were intending to use it with any frequency, or indoors. The NEC, UL and the packaging say its good to 13A, nearly 20% above the L1 EVSE. That is good enough for me, since I'm using it 'never' and only outdoors.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extension_cord" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Click to expand...

The Nissan EVSE provides 12 amps, IIRC. I agree that you need a 14 gauge extension even for casual or emergency use. What if it's hot out instead of cold when you need it...?

As a newb, I'll take your word on the 12A....I had thought it was 1.3 kW input.

I really don't want to be argumentative....but there is already a safety factor built into the NEC code and UL listing for use at 13A. This is a cord set and rating that applies for outdoor use across the US. To me that suggests it can be used at the rated capacity in sunlight in the summer in Texas (there is no outdoor temp derating in the code, or regional variance).

Digging into the code a little...there is a derating for lengths over 50'. This is presumably NOT related to heating of the cord or plugs (which would not increase with length), but due to voltage drop. The fact that I am AT 50' means that I am at the maximum NEC recommended voltage drop at 13A. If I thought the EVSE or the OBC was finicky about input voltage, I would upsize the cord. But I expect both to be fairly tolerant of voltage droop (including accepting voltages below that 'guaranteed' by following NEC recommendations).

It's like the donut spare...rated for only 50 miles at 50 mph maximum. Should I only go 30 miles and 30 mph, or should I trust the rating? Should I only carry a full-size rim and stock tire? Nope. For emergency use, I will use it to the rating. During the zombie apocalypse...I would even use it a tad beyond if it meant keeping my brains. :lol:

I think extensions cords are dangerous and should be respected more than they are, but the major danger is wear: e.g. material breakdown in long use at high temps, metal fatigue at the stress points, cracked insulation from repeated crushing, etc. If I wanted to use a cord at 13A on a daily or weekly basis for years, I would want a 14/3 or heavier cord to give me additional safety factor against such wear and damage.

I am seeing the cord as an 'emergency use' item like the donut, that I can run near its rating, as long as it is in mint condition. If I find myself using it more than never, I will indeed upsize it. If I was getting 3 flats a year, I would carry a full size spare wheel.

More....

I also dug up an 'automotive tool kit' someone gave me many years ago (my Dad?), that has a socket set, screwdriver, pliers and crescent wrench, in a little book-sized pouch....into the fender it goes. It also has a spark plug gapping tool, don't expect to need THAT.

I should put a handful of papertowels in a ziplock in there too.....never go anywhere without a towel.

I picked up a decent LED flashlight with good throw, a magnetic base and adjustable head. Into the glovebox. Might be useful for reading house numbers in the dark, or fumbling under the hood if the 12V battery is conked out in the dark.

Along those lines.... I already had two orphaned 6V alkaline lantern batteries from another project. I have stowed them with some alligator clip leads in the glovebox as well (in a bag in case they leak). Obviously, in a 'jumpstart' situation they cannot be left connected, lest the DC-DC converter try to charge them, but I **think** they would suffice to get the system 'booted up' and running on traction battery power. A small SLA battery would be preferable (no danger of charging on a 12v system), but I have always found them to be unreliable, and the self-discharge would require me to recharge them a couple times a year (?). A commercial jumpstarter would prob be the most reliable and safest, but also spendy, big and heavy.

Can't foresee every problem....but I think I am getting ready to stop.

The issue with thinner extension cords and charging is the length of time they are connected to the factory EVSE, not their ability to carry the power at all. If you aren't going to use the cord for more than an hour or two to charge in an emergency, use it. I wouldn't leave it charging that way overnight in Summer, though. Now that I think about it, check and make sure the prongs aren't undersized enough to create a loose fit.

you don't think the cord would reach a constant temp in much less than an hour?

woodgeek said:

you don't think the cord would reach a constant temp in much less than an hour?

Click to expand...

Generally, yes. In hot weather, not necessarily.