What do you think about these rims?

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etracing

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 7, 2012
Messages
159
Location
Summerville, SC
for our 2012 SL? Any potential issues?

AMERICAN RACING® - AR895 Dark Silver with Machined Face (17" x 7.5", +45 Offset, 5x114.3 Bolt Pattern, 72.6mm Hub

ar-ar895-dark-silver-with-machined-face_1.jpg
 
Looks good.

The stock Leaf wheels have a hub bore of 66.1mm. These have a hub bore of 72.6mm. That means that you won't have the hub supporting the wheel. It will only be supported by the lug bolts. In theory, that means that they won't be as well supported as factory wheels. The lug bolts will be "in shear" when there is stress on the wheel, and that could cause the lug to deform, leading to an off-balance wheel. I have no data on whether this is significant or minor. But these guys make it sound important:
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=91&currentpage=103" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://tires.about.com/od/understanding_wheels/a/hub-centric-vs-lug-centric-wheels.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

These people also say correct centerbore is important, but they allow that many people will have to use a spacer to fill the gap. If you have a good spacer, they make it sound like it will be as good as an OEM rim. They even say that plastic spacers will work, but I have significant doubts about plastic spacers. If you are concerned about the effect of hitting a bump and causing shear stress on the lug bolts, a plastic spacer won't help. It will deform quickly. It will only work for initial fitting.
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1686674&postcount=3" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

So if you decide to get those wheels, you probably will want quality metal spacers to fit the counterbore to your axle.

Bob
 
etracing said:
for our 2012 SL? Any potential issues?

AMERICAN RACING® - AR895 Dark Silver with Machined Face (17" x 7.5", +45 Offset, 5x114.3 Bolt Pattern, 72.6mm Hub

ar-ar895-dark-silver-with-machined-face_1.jpg

From your previous post wanting more power I would recomend some light weight 15 in wheels...
see my thread here.
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=17478
You can also get some very serious track tires in 15 in, some with a slightly smaller over all diameter. That will have the effect of lowering the final drive and increasing the lb/ft that the tire puts to the ground.

It's $180 for a 20lb wheel on tire rack, if you want to stick with 17s right now you can get the Kosei K4R 14-5lbs (7 or 8 wide) for $199. You can't really get under 12lbs in a 17 for a less than $1500 a set, and that's used. New look at over $2500. There are a couple good choices in the 13.5 to 15lb range but all over $200 a wheel.

Bob said:
Looks good.

The stock Leaf wheels have a hub bore of 66.1mm. These have a hub bore of 72.6mm. That means that you won't have the hub supporting the wheel. It will only be supported by the lug bolts. In theory, that means that they won't be as well supported as factory wheels. The lug bolts will be "in shear" when there is stress on the wheel, and that could cause the lug to deform, leading to an off-balance wheel. I have no data on whether this is significant or minor. But these guys make it sound important:
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=91&currentpage=103" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://tires.about.com/od/understanding_wheels/a/hub-centric-vs-lug-centric-wheels.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

These people also say correct centerbore is important, but they allow that many people will have to use a spacer to fill the gap. If you have a good spacer, they make it sound like it will be as good as an OEM rim. They even say that plastic spacers will work, but I have significant doubts about plastic spacers. If you are concerned about the effect of hitting a bump and causing shear stress on the lug bolts, a plastic spacer won't help. It will deform quickly. It will only work for initial fitting.
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1686674&postcount=3" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

So if you decide to get those wheels, you probably will want quality metal spacers to fit the counterbore to your axle.

Bob


Much heavier, much more powerful performance cars have done much more serious driving on hub rings. It's the industry standard and almost anyone who buys a set of dedicated track wheels will be using hub rings. I have never heard of anyone having a problem with them. A track tire will also allow many of these cars to pull over 1.0g. You'd be lucky to pull .8 in the leaf.
 
Bob said:
Looks good.

The stock Leaf wheels have a hub bore of 66.1mm. These have a hub bore of 72.6mm. That means that you won't have the hub supporting the wheel. It will only be supported by the lug bolts. In theory, that means that they won't be as well supported as factory wheels. The lug bolts will be "in shear" when there is stress on the wheel, and that could cause the lug to deform, leading to an off-balance wheel. I have no data on whether this is significant or minor. But these guys make it sound important:
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=91&currentpage=103" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://tires.about.com/od/understanding_wheels/a/hub-centric-vs-lug-centric-wheels.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

These people also say correct centerbore is important, but they allow that many people will have to use a spacer to fill the gap. If you have a good spacer, they make it sound like it will be as good as an OEM rim. They even say that plastic spacers will work, but I have significant doubts about plastic spacers. If you are concerned about the effect of hitting a bump and causing shear stress on the lug bolts, a plastic spacer won't help. It will deform quickly. It will only work for initial fitting.
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1686674&postcount=3" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

So if you decide to get those wheels, you probably will want quality metal spacers to fit the counterbore to your axle.

Bob


Hey Bob.

Thank you for the great info. The rims come with support spacers that I will pay particular attention to when they arrive.

I will report back my findings if we get these rims.

Ed
 
minispeed said:
etracing said:
for our 2012 SL? Any potential issues?

AMERICAN RACING® - AR895 Dark Silver with Machined Face (17" x 7.5", +45 Offset, 5x114.3 Bolt Pattern, 72.6mm Hub

ar-ar895-dark-silver-with-machined-face_1.jpg

From your previous post wanting more power I would recomend some light weight 15 in wheels...
see my thread here.
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=17478
You can also get some very serious track tires in 15 in, some with a slightly smaller over all diameter. That will have the effect of lowering the final drive and increasing the lb/ft that the tire puts to the ground.

It's $180 for a 20lb wheel on tire rack, if you want to stick with 17s right now you can get the Kosei K4R 14-5lbs (7 or 8 wide) for $199. You can't really get under 12lbs in a 17 for a less than $1500 a set, and that's used. New look at over $2500. There are a couple good choices in the 13.5 to 15lb range but all over $200 a wheel.

Much heavier, much more powerful performance cars have done much more serious driving on hub rings. It's the industry standard and almost anyone who buys a set of dedicated track wheels will be using hub rings. I have never heard of anyone having a problem with them. A track tire will also allow many of these cars to pull over 1.0g. You'd be lucky to pull .8 in the leaf.

Thank you for the info.

like in most Motorsports, it cost money to go lighter....
I will be taking a look a both the tire and rim weight to get an idea what direction to go in. I am hoping that a smaller tire and larger rim (I may totally off on this) may offset or get close to the original weight of the stock setup. The 16 inch tires are just too small for the look we are wanting. Nothing extreme, just a more "racy" look. :)

We needed new tires for the bracket racing anyway and the old set will give me plenty of spares for the 2012 Blue leaf we have.

Ed
 
etracing said:
minispeed said:
etracing said:
for our 2012 SL? Any potential issues?

AMERICAN RACING® - AR895 Dark Silver with Machined Face (17" x 7.5", +45 Offset, 5x114.3 Bolt Pattern, 72.6mm Hub

ar-ar895-dark-silver-with-machined-face_1.jpg

From your previous post wanting more power I would recomend some light weight 15 in wheels...
see my thread here.
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=17478
You can also get some very serious track tires in 15 in, some with a slightly smaller over all diameter. That will have the effect of lowering the final drive and increasing the lb/ft that the tire puts to the ground.

It's $180 for a 20lb wheel on tire rack, if you want to stick with 17s right now you can get the Kosei K4R 14-5lbs (7 or 8 wide) for $199. You can't really get under 12lbs in a 17 for a less than $1500 a set, and that's used. New look at over $2500. There are a couple good choices in the 13.5 to 15lb range but all over $200 a wheel.

Much heavier, much more powerful performance cars have done much more serious driving on hub rings. It's the industry standard and almost anyone who buys a set of dedicated track wheels will be using hub rings. I have never heard of anyone having a problem with them. A track tire will also allow many of these cars to pull over 1.0g. You'd be lucky to pull .8 in the leaf.

Thank you for the info.

like in most Motorsports, it cost money to go lighter....
I will be taking a look a both the tire and rim weight to get an idea what direction to go in. I am hoping that a smaller tire and larger rim (I may totally off on this) may offset or get close to the original weight of the stock setup. The 16 inch tires are just too small for the look we are wanting. Nothing extreme, just a more "racy" look. :)

We needed new tires for the bracket racing anyway and the old set will give me plenty of spares for the 2012 Blue leaf we have.

Ed

The larger rim also carries the majority of it's weight, and the weight of the tire bead futher to the outside needing more torque to spin it. A 20lb 17 in rim will take more power to move than a 20lb 16 in rim. The 17 in tire will also probably weigh more than the 16 and then also be further out. A 15 rim that drops down to 12.5-13 lbs (and is CHEAP! rota slip stream $500 a set) will give you more usefull power than a 12lb expensive Volk TE37 17in would. Also a smaller cheaper soft compound tire will give you a lot better grip and allow you to get more heat into the tread quicker than a large 17.

I can't fault you for liking the way it looks, it depends on your priorities in racing, winning or promotion.


What type of racing are you doing?
 
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