Tein H tech spings pn a 2015 sv

My Nissan Leaf Forum

Help Support My Nissan Leaf Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

minispeed

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 6, 2014
Messages
681
Location
Ancaster, ON
Hi all,

I took a very small gamble and ordered some tein h tech springs from nengun.com even though all the specs said they were for 2011 and 2012 leafs. The install was very easy and they fit perfectly. I took some pics of the install as a guide if anyone else wants to try it out. Took about 4hrs but could probably be done in 3 with a helper.

First step was to loosen the wheel nuts, then jack up the car and remove the wheel. Put the car on a jack stand and then position the jack under the brake rotor but don't lift it yet, have a wood block between if your jack doesn't have a pad. Then from under the hood remove the plastic cover to access the top of the strut, loosen but don't remove the three bolts, 13mm socket. In the pic I started with the socket on the angle but later switched to a smaller ratchet that fit inside. There is enough room to work without removing the big cover.



The abs sensor is attached at 2 points (1 pictured) it slides right out.


Next I removed the clip holding the brake line with a flat head screwdriver and a small hammer.


I marked the bolts so I could figure out the torque specs, these 2 were 100ftlb, same socket size as the wheel lug nuts. I held one side with an adjustable which wasn't easy. After the second I realized I could have used a tire iron.


85 ftlb for the tie rod end link.


After all those are loose you'll notice the tie rod end link is putting a load on the strut. Slowly jack it up under the rotor until there is no longer tension and you can slide out the link. Now while supporting the strut fully remove the three top screws and lift out the assembly. Using a spring compressor take the load off the top mount then loosen the large centre nut. I used an electric impact driver that does about 80ftlb I think, it's the only way to do it. You can use a wrench and key combo but it's a pain. I counted the threads at 5 deep to know how much to re torque it.

Assembly is now the reverse.

Side by side it's about 1cm shorter.


Back on the car.


The rears are a lot easier, probably more so if you jack both sides at the same time or have a helper. Remove the nut for the bottom of the shock with the wheel still on and the car on the ground. I only used a marker to know how much to tighten it, don't know the torque spec but it's not a lot. Then slowly jack the car until the bolt slides out easily.


With only one side up at a time I had to push down on the wheel and hold it down with my inner thigh wrapped around it while I pulled the spring out with my other hand. I can only wonder what it looked like.... this is where a helper would come in handy. The top rubber came off with the spring, I refit it to the teins before sliding in the new spring.

Side by side, they are about the same length.


Putting them back on also requires the wheel be pushed down. If both sides were up at the same time it may not. I found it was easier to push it in with the bottom cut end of the coil towards the back of the car then twist it till the bottom lined up correctly. Next lower the car very slowly till the bolt for the shock will slide back in.


I forgot to take a pre measure of the wheel centre to fender so the before measurments were on the passenger side are after the drivers side front was done, thus the car isn't level and it was on a driveway with a slope towards the front of the car. Front about 15.6in rear 16.25in, after all 4 done and on more level ground both about 14.8/9in.

After pics



When I first picked up the leaf and parked it beside the prius the prius looked much lower. Now they look about the same. It still looks like a stock car should loom since the leaf was way too high.

My first impressions.

Turning, at initial turn in it's not really noticiable, it still leans a bit (remember 2015has firmer springs than 11/12) but around a traffic circle it is a lot flatter and holds more speed. Traction out of a corner feels better and the car is much flatter when accelerating. The ride is a bit firmer and you feel/hear more. It feels like the whole car moves not like it's transmitting it into you or the car. It's not as noticiable an improvement as eibachs were on my optima but it's a little firmer ride than I remember that being. The true test will be the wife. I haven't told her so I'll wait and see if she complains. On the optima she never knew I did it, but she also couldn't drive stick and she lves the leaf because it's quiet and smooth. Maybe I'll drop the tires a few psi before she drives it (44 now).
 
very nice writeup. Thanks for sharing. This is something that I might be interested in doing to my '11. Looks like it lowered the car about an inch which would be perfect, and for a lot less than the coilover kits.
 
palmermd said:
very nice writeup.
+1.

Can you measure the center of hub to fender lip with the car parked on a flat surface so we can get an idea of actual drop?

Edit: saw you did post that data, quoting in case others missed it.
Front about 15.6in rear 16.25in, after all 4 done and on more level ground both about 14.8/9in

My only concern with doing the same upgrade is that the stock shocks already seem a bit underdamped as it is on the '11-12 LEAF (not as stiff as on the '13+ LEAF), so it may get a bit bouncy. But it does look like the height that the car should have come from the factory. Maybe need to find some '13+ struts/shock pull-offs, too.
 
I installed my Tein springs (thanks Jeremy!) last night and this morning. Thanks for the write up, made it easier.

Bought an electric impact gun and sockets from Harbor Freight, made it a lot easier to get the big top hat nut off and work the spring compressor compared to the last time I did a spring swap. Also had to buy a swiver socket adapter to get the top hat bolts off.

The rear shock nut/bolts were super tight on mine, needed some extra leverage to get it off.

After taking the car for a test drive and cleaning up, I read the directions (better late than never!) and noticed that they suggest taking an inch (25mm) - did you do that? Not cutting them shorter will limit bump travel a bit.

Initial test drive reveals that the ride is firmer, but not harsh by any means. It definitely follows the road better and feels less detached. Pretty good improvement. The fender gaps look normal now, too. I measured 14 3/4" F and 14.5" R from fender lip to hub. Didn't get a chance to really test the handling yet, though, but not expecting much with nearly bald stock tires. Only real drawback is that you do have to be more careful over large bumps, but that's to be expected.
 
MechanicDan said:
Any impact to kW/m? I do a lot of high speed driving(I work night shift) and looking to improve the aero to improve range.
I don't believe that the difference would be much, but I too would be interested in hearing if anyone did any measurements to see if there was a change.
 
MechanicDan said:
Any impact to kW/m? I do a lot of high speed driving(I work night shift) and looking to improve the aero to improve range.

I do the same and since getting them I have driven faster. I'm getting about the same.

I really didn't have the car long before I got it, and in the first few weeks did a few drives to push the range as much as possible. I was around 7.4 km/kwhr for 3 weeks. Since getting the springs I've been at 7.2km/hwhr but I have only done highway drives to work and have gone a lot faster. I do find it's easier to top out the gague at 10km/kwhr when driving light at highway speeds now.

There have been a few times where I find the ride bouncy and I think if you want to enjoy the highway trip then the original springs are better (on a 2015 at least).
 
drees said:
After taking the car for a test drive and cleaning up, I read the directions (better late than never!) and noticed that they suggest taking an inch (25mm) - did you do that? Not cutting them shorter will limit bump travel a bit.


I didn't cut them and I haven't hit the bump stops yet.
 
minispeed said:
There have been a few times where I find the ride bouncy and I think if you want to enjoy the highway trip then the original springs are better (on a 2015 at least).
The ride is definitely smoother on the stock springs. After almost a week of driving, I find It can be harsh on larger bumps. Cornering is a lot flatter, though, which inspires a lot more confidence, as long as the road surface is decent.

minispeed said:
drees said:
After taking the car for a test drive and cleaning up, I read the directions (better late than never!) and noticed that they suggest taking an inch (25mm) - did you do that? Not cutting them shorter will limit bump travel a bit.
I didn't cut them and I haven't hit the bump stops yet.
You can be certain that you are using the bump stops regularly.

Modern bump stops are very progressive elastomer springs designed to prevent harsh bottoming out on large bumps - you are not likely to feel them engage except as showing up as a sharp increase in spring rate. In many vehicles, the bump stop will be nearly engaged at stock ride height, so nearly any compression of the suspension will engage the bump stop.

Shortening the stock bump stops when installing aftermarket springs is very typical - it is expected that you will want a bit more bump travel before the bump stop engages with the lower ride height.

In certain conditions I am confident that shortening the bump stops would help reduce some of the ride harshness on larger bumps, primarily quick humps which the stock springs would absorb with little fanfare, but with the lowering springs you feel the car really respond to the. If the outside wheel is loaded up in a corner and you hit a bump you can also feel that it is quite a bit harsher than one might expect.

I will very likely disassemble the struts again to shorten the stock bump stop. Some of the larger bumps I frequently encounter are a bit annoying with the Tein springs.
 
drees said:
...

I will very likely disassemble the struts again to shorten the stock bump stop. Some of the larger bumps I frequently encounter are a bit annoying with the Tein springs.

Looking forward to your followup review. Thanks for the updates.
 
I tried driving at a pace more similar to when I first got the car. Previously using all highway my best to get to work was using 42% of the battery. Today I used just 40%. I forgot to reset the km/kwhr gague though.
 
Drees review is interesting. :) I'm glad I sold them since I would not have a good time on the roads around here (plus my lease is up next September).
 
I just finished installing my Tein lowering springs on my 2011 Leaf SL. It dropped the car a full inch. The ride is firmer,which I like. Too early to tell what effect,if any on efficiency. I got them for $268.46,including tax and shipping.
 
Thanks for the write-up minispeed, your photos are very helpful.

The Teins have listed spring rates of 3.1 kg/mm front, 5.3 kg/mm rear. It seems unusual to have rates so much higher at the back of the car. Does anyone know what the stock spring rates are for 11/12 or 13/14/15 Leafs?
 
I don't know what the stock rates are, but the rear rates are higher because the motion ratio (how much the spring compresses for a given amount of wheel movement) for the rear suspension is much lower than the motion ratio for the front suspension.
 
Makes sense, thanks. It's worth noting that the other aftermarket suspensions that forum members have installed on their Leafs (BC Racing, Blitz, Megan, etc) have had higher front spring rates than rear rates. Makes me wish I had a Leaf, a lift, and a stack of springs to experiment with!
 
Super6 said:
Do you have a part number for the springs?

same question asked in a different post, reposting for the benefit of anyone doing a future search

Super6 said:
Do you have a part# for the springs and would you recommend them?


SKK32-G1B00
http://www.nengun.com/tein/h-tech-springs" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


I recommend them but they aren't perfect. They are very pricey for springs that you can source locally, about 1.5-2x the cost to get them out to you. Coil overs that you can get here are a decent price compared to other coil overs.

If the car is used I would recommend coil overs as the stiffer spring will wear a half worn shock much quicker, if it's new and you just want the look to save some money these are good.

http://www.meganracing.com/product_detail.asp?prodid=1615&catid=31" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


If I plan on keeping my car 8+ years I'll get coil overs when stock shocks get weak.
 
I ended up taking off my H-tech springs off my '11 this weekend.

The roads I daily drive on are too rough and suspension is in to the stiff part of the bump stops a lot. With 3-4 adults in the car you have to be even more careful.

When putting the stock springs back on, I took a closer look at the bump stops. The rear bump stops will only compress about an inch or so (tested using jack under the suspension). The front bump stops on the other hand are very progressive - the first inch you can easily compress with your fingers and the rate rises progressively more until you get to full compression.

The right height is only about 1 1/8" lower than stock with the H-techs, so I'm surprised that there isn't enough bump travel on the stock suspension setup.

A quick test drive back on the stock springs showed that the ride is back to normal. There is more lean around corners, but cornering limits don't seem to be appreciably lower. If anything, the more supple suspension allows for more confidence given the condition of the roads I normally drive on and certainly nice to not have to dodge certain bumps in the road and to be able to take other bumps without slowing down to avoid getting into the bump stops. 1" of ride height makes a big difference!
 
Back
Top