2016 SV/SL Range and Battery

I just leased a new 2016 SV. I do not see much here about the new 30 KWh battery. Anyone else have a 2016 SV/SL? What kind of range are you getting? I know it still very new but anyone seeing a degradation of the battery yet?

ebuonaccor said:

I just leased a new 2016 SV. I do not see much here about the new 30 KWh battery. Anyone else have a 2016 SV/SL? What kind of range are you getting? I know it still very new but anyone seeing a degradation of the battery yet?

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You might want to edit your thread title, as the typo gives a misleading impression of what the topic's about

I see about 25% more range, just as advertised. Seems like a LOT more, also seems like it takes longer to top off the charge.

Oops! Thanks GRA didn't see that. Fixed.

As for my RANGE I tend to see 115-120 miles on GOM when I unplug, but tend to get about 20 miles less than what the GOM guesses. usually between 95 and 100. I do live in the northeast and it has been in the 30's and 40's out so I am hoping this improves once it gets warmer.

I just came out of a 2013 SV & stepped into a 2016 SV in the middle of these cold winter months. The 2016 SV GOM shows me 115-130 miles each morning at 100% charge. I drive about 85 miles daily with 20-25 miles of range left at the end of the day.

I can certainly tell you that temperature resilience of the 2016 30Kwh battery feels vastly improved over the 2013's 24Kwh pack. My 2013 SV had difficulty handling 60 mile commutes in Nov, Dec, Jan & Feb.

The 2016's battery is easily delivering its promised 107 mile range in the coldest of the winter months. I imagine, it will be much better in summer. Temperatures here drop to as low as low 30s in my area.

mihird said:

The 2016's battery is easily delivering its promised 107 mile range in the coldest of the winter months.

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EPA ratings for mileage and range aren't promises.

Fly down the highway at 80-85 with heat blasting and I bet you can get less range out of it.

Absolutely. I drive in the usual Leaf range extending constraints.

1. Little or no cabin HVAC
2. 60-65mph freeway driving 50-55mph ascends on slopes.
3. Pre-heat cabin in the AM from house power.
4. One pedal driving as much as possible.

After 1 month of driving in winter, my Leaf is averaging 4.0 miles/KWh which does require energy efficient driving practices.

I'm averaging around 3.6 m/kwh on a 60 mi daily commute with a 1900 ft elevation change. Downhill is a breeze but uphill sucks. Haven't run it down to the lbw but once and that was an 84 mi day. Usually 60 mi leaves me with 35-40% charge so I'd guess about 95 mi ultimate range. I'm in San Diego East county so the mornings are around freezing. the cold doesn't seem to affect the battery much although running the heater and defroster costs me a kwh or so starting out. Percentage of battery power left seems more accurate than the guessometer. One thing I find surprising is that I can charge from 40% to full charge in 2 1/2 to 3 hours instead of the 6 1/2 hours the dashboard estimates.

I agree about winter performance. From what I have read about previous Leafs in the winter I was expecting a dramatic drop in range. After my 46 mile round trip commute I have about 55% left in the battery which if the math works out would give me about 100 miles of range. When I first got the car I was taking it slow on the back roads and not using the heat but now I drive my normal speed 65-70mph on the freeway with the heat on and still end my commute with 53% battery left.

Here's hoping the new batteries can take the heat better too!

Stupid question: where do you look to find the %SOC of the battery? Looked through a bunch of menus yesterday and couldn't find anything. The GOM is nearly useless.

This is our first EV and my wife gets range anxiety.

Look for the cluster of four buttons to the left of your steering wheel. The one that looks like a window (or a “square”) toggles through the displays.

Pressing the button with the dot (the period?) can reset kWh efficiency so you can get a good of idea of your m/kWh.

You can see an illustration in the owner’s manual:

https://owners.nissanusa.com/nowners/navigation/manualsGuide

I routinely get around 80+ miles on one charge in cold weather (low 30s, high 70s). Longest distance has been 103 miles. I reset the Trip B ODO to 0, reset efficiency and reset efficiency history to see what might result. For that trip, I ended with with two bars left (18% on Guess-O-Meter?) and 4.5 average m/kWh but saw as high as 5.1 m/kWh. So possibly could have gone another 18 miles terrain, speed, temperature, driving style dependent?

ebuonaccor said:

I agree about winter performance. From what I have read about previous Leafs in the winter I was expecting a dramatic drop in range. After my 46 mile round trip commute I have about 55% left in the battery which if the math works out would give me about 100 miles of range. When I first got the car I was taking it slow on the back roads and not using the heat but now I drive my normal speed 65-70mph on the freeway with the heat on and still end my commute with 53% battery left.

Here's hoping the new batteries can take the heat better too!

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I suspect you're seeing the effects of the heat pump versus the resistive heater. What have the temps been like?

Low 30's. Although I just went out today, we had a snow storm and I had to use the defroster the entire ride. Took about a 20 mile hit from the defroster. When i use the heat only the energy consumption screen show the hvac is using less the 1.5 KW (I'm guessing about 500W) but with the defroster on the hvac used up to 6 KW. I must say the defroster sucks. With the defroster on full blast the entire ride the windows were still fogged.

The default Defrost mode is for both heat and A/C to come on, and this sucks juice. Shut the A/C off, leaving the heatpump handling defrosting, and it should work well.

LeftieBiker said:

The default Defrost mode is for both heat and A/C to come on, and this sucks juice. Shut the A/C off, leaving the heatpump handling defrosting, and it should work well.

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. Lately here in Florida it's been cold and damp at night. In "auto" mode the heat pump heat comes on and Windows quickly fog up. Selecting cool with heat quickly defrosts tthe Windows.

I haven't tried defrost mode alone.

Flyct said:

LeftieBiker said:

The default Defrost mode is for both heat and A/C to come on, and this sucks juice. Shut the A/C off, leaving the heatpump handling defrosting, and it should work well.

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. Lately here in Florida it's been cold and damp at night. In "auto" mode the heat pump heat comes on and Windows quickly fog up. Selecting cool with heat quickly defrosts tthe Windows.

I haven't tried defrost mode alone.

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If it's cold and damp, then using the heater with defrost will also work well. Make sure that the Recirculate control (over which, unfortunately, you have limited control) is on Open when using heat only, and on Recirculate when using A/C.