2012 Leaf won't turn on - Have DTC codes

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Newporttom

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 4, 2011
Messages
115
Location
Saint Johns, FL
Replacement battery pack with 35,000 miles on it. No lost bars yet. 12v battery might be 18 months old. Have one of the modified EVES that allows you to do 240.

Got home with 9 miles left and LBW. Plugged it in. Paid no attention to whether charging lights came on. Leaf Spy with newer ELM device was on all night I think.

Today car won't start. No indications of charge bars (had one when I got home). Car acts like it's on but shows 0 bars of charge. Car beeps when you plug in EVSE but no lights come on (even for a second).

DTS codes
P317 00C0 EV/HEV Restart Inhibition EVC-310
PA0AA6 00C6 EV/Hev Hybrid Batt Volt Sys Isolation EVC-157

U1266 0208 Multi AV TCU Conn AV-92
U1232 0108 Multi AV St ANgle Sen Calib AV-88

Didn't see anything quite like this when searching. Car reads as being in Neutral but not sure if it really is.
 
Sounds like you've got LeafSpy already. With the Pro version, you can reset all the DTCs.

Have you tried resetting the DTCs, powering off the car, then charging the 12V battery using a battery charger.

If you don't have a battery charger and want to rule out the 12V battery as a root cause, you could clear the DTCs, power off the car, hookup jumper cables to another car that's running, then power on the LEAF and hopefully it will go into run mode. If it does, then the 12V battery is the problem.
 
Is there a button sequence to check the 12v battery too? I may look that up. On the other hand, the wife (it's her car), wanted to see the new 2018. We just got back and have appt tomorrow. We were going to wait for 2019 + version but.....
 
Newporttom said:
Replacement battery pack with 35,000 miles on it. No lost bars yet. 12v battery might be 18 months old. Have one of the modified EVES that allows you to do 240.

Got home with 9 miles left and LBW. Plugged it in. Paid no attention to whether charging lights came on. Leaf Spy with newer ELM device was on all night I think.

Today car won't start. No indications of charge bars (had one when I got home). Car acts like it's on but shows 0 bars of charge. Car beeps when you plug in EVSE but no lights come on (even for a second).

DTS codes
P317 00C0 EV/HEV Restart Inhibition EVC-310
PA0AA6 00C6 EV/Hev Hybrid Batt Volt Sys Isolation EVC-157

U1266 0208 Multi AV TCU Conn AV-92
U1232 0108 Multi AV St ANgle Sen Calib AV-88

Didn't see anything quite like this when searching. Car reads as being in Neutral but not sure if it really is.

U1266 0208 Multi AV TCU Conn AV-92
This code means that the TCU (Carwings) unit was disabled. I'm guessing you still have the old 2G TCU, didn't pay for the upgraded 3G model. If so, congratulations--the dealer did the service properly (I had 3 dealers attempt and fail this). ;) You can ignore this code, it has nothing to do with your problem and this code is not a problem as long as you don't use Carwings.


U1232 0108 Multi AV St ANgle Sen Calib AV-88
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?t=16777

This code appears to have been related to the steering wheel angle calibration sensor. If you turn the wheel left and right, it should clear the error condition. This is also linked to 12V battery issues. See here:
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?t=16777


P317 00C0 EV/HEV Restart Inhibition EVC-310
PA0AA6 00C6 EV/Hev Hybrid Batt Volt Sys Isolation EVC-157


Do you have typos in these codes? I see on another page them described as follows
P31E7 000B EV/HEV Restart Inhibition EVC-310
P0AA6 0008 EV/HEV Hybrid Batt Volt Sys Isolation EVC-157
(http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?t=26179)

These indicate one of two things:
1) Your 12V battery is low or dead and causing the car to misdiagnose things. This is supported by the U1232 error as well. OR
2) Your main traction battery has gone bad, one of the cells has failed.


This is what you should do:
1) Put a standard car battery charger on the 12V battery under the hood, as alozzy suggested. Let it charge until the 12V battery is charged. You can use any 12V car battery charger like you would have for a gas-powered vehicle.
2) Clear the codes with LeafSpy Pro
3) Try to turn the car on and start it. If it starts, recheck codes with LeafSpy and verify that none are present, other than the TCU Conn. If the Angle Sen code is still present, turn the steering wheel right and left, re-clear and check codes
4) If the car still will not start, schedule a dealer repair visit. Your main traction (high voltage) battery has detected a fault and shut off. This should be covered by the 8 year 100k mile warranty. While they may just repair the one failing cell, you will most likely get a new battery (and factory fresh, 2012 range). Celebrate!


What I would NOT do is: Trade in the car at the dealership as a non-running vehicle to avoid the hassle. You have a very good shot of having a brand new battery from Nissan which will make the car more valuable.

Hope your wife loves her new Leaf, whenever she does get it!
 
Newporttom said:
Is there a button sequence to check the 12v battery too? I may look that up. On the other hand, the wife (it's her car), wanted to see the new 2018. We just got back and have appt tomorrow. We were going to wait for 2019 + version but.....

No, there's no button or function in the car to check the 12V battery. You need to get an external car battery charger and use that to check the charge level and charge the 12V battery if it's not charged.

Sometimes, but not always, Leafs with low voltage 12V batteries will throw a specific code indicating this. Yours does not have this code, but it could still be the problem.
 
I appreciate your reply. We did buy a new one. I had been teetering on the brink, and the wife got a raise Friday.... I had already received a replacement battery and got 34 months and over 39,000 miles on the Lizard version, and had not lost a bar yet,

But I have almost 88,000 miles on it. We were ready for an upgrade.

Just for curiosity.. do you have to remove the battery to do that charge?
 
Newporttom said:
I appreciate your reply. We did buy a new one. I had been teetering on the brink, and the wife got a raise Friday.... I had already received a replacement battery and got 34 months and over 39,000 miles on the Lizard version, and had not lost a bar yet,

But I have almost 88,000 miles on it. We were ready for an upgrade.

Just for curiosity.. do you have to remove the battery to do that charge?


Nope. Just make sure the Leaf is off, as there's a possibility that if the DC-DC converter is engaged, it could damage it. If you're super paranoid, you could disconnect the red terminal, but I haven't and nobody that I'm aware of has reported any problems. 12V batteries go bad over time, and the Leaf is notorious for either draining and/or killing them, as they don't like to stay discharged for long periods of time.

Here's a video on it, in case your new Leaf ever needs it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b95hA1t7eo8

It's extremely easy. I hope you enjoy your new Leaf and didn't eat your shirt on the existing one, if you traded it in.
 
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