2017 A/C not working

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mbeckler83

Member
Joined
Jul 30, 2017
Messages
6
Edit/Update: Car had no refrigerant in it. They filled it and said they test for leaks and that maybe it was not filled at the factory. However it is back to not working again and actually it is now really loud when running the A/C as well. I first noticed the noise before I noticed A/C wasn't working again (We had a period of cooler weather) I can hear A/C over radio now...

Does anyone else's leaf sound this loud while running A/C? Mine definitely didn't up until about a week or two ago.
https://1drv.ms/v/s!Akkj2DwbzLc2gaUvC6L0-Nd2BVKfsg

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Hi All,
Just want to make sure I'm not missing anything before I go back into the dealership.

I picked up my 2017 Leaf SV with 12 miles on it on Friday it was a cooler day and I was by myself so I didn't' really play much with HVAC system.

The next day it was warmer and we were driving about 30 miles. I noticed the Air was not cold at all and wife/2 year old were complaining about heat.

I hit the A/C button I tried it with both Auto and taking Auto off. I even set it to 60F with auto on.

It was actually warmer then with A/C off (I think because air was not coming from outside with A/C off)

So is it possible I'm missing something when it comes to the A/C system? I read manual extensively. But I do not see that I'm doing anything wrong. When using the a/c it just is not colder and sometimes warmer then using just vent.

I saw there was recall on some A/c units but that was for 2014 S Leafs. So doesn't seem to apply to my 2017.
So I had my wife look in the manual to make sure we were not doing something wrong and we can't figure out what is going on.

Thanks!
 
Make sure you are not in ECO driving mode. Press AUTO button and set temperature to 72 degrees F or lower (60 F is lowest setting). Amber LEDs in AUTO and A/C buttons should be illuminated and car should cool down quickly. Amber LED in RECIRCULATE button may be on or off depending upon difference between outside and inside temperatures. If the vents do not blow cold air and car does not reach a comfortable temperature in a few minutes while driving at least 18 miles per hour, take it to your dealer for repair.
 
GerryAZ said:
Make sure you are not in ECO driving mode. Press AUTO button and set temperature to 72 degrees F or lower (60 F is lowest setting). Amber LEDs in AUTO and A/C buttons should be illuminated and car should cool down quickly. Amber LED in RECIRCULATE button may be on or off depending upon difference between outside and inside temperatures. If the vents do not blow cold air and car does not reach a comfortable temperature in a few minutes while driving at least 18 miles per hour, take it to your dealer for repair.

Did you get this resolved?
 
I had to drive across town today so I just did some testing using my Fluke 561 iR and thermocouple digital thermometer. Car was sitting in driveway in sun when I left home at 11:00 AM. Ambient temperature was about 98 F (from weather app). I did not write down temperatures of black leather seats and top of black dash before starting, but they were over 150 F when I thought to make the measurement. I started the car and pressed AUTO with temperature set point at 76 F. A/C came on in recirculate mode, I cracked rear windows and switched to outside air. Car was getting comfortable and discharge temperature from right center vent (above navigation screen) was 50 F after driving about 1 mile through the neighborhood. I touched the AUTO button and the system switched back to recirculate mode. I closed the rear windows and drove about a mile and discharge temperature was down to 40 F. Discharge temperature gradually raised to 50 F due to slower compressor speed while stopped at a traffic light. After merging on to freeway, discharge temperature dropped to 38 F and stayed between 38 and 42 F for the duration of my trip until I switched to outside air. Discharge temperature stabilized at 47 F with outside air intake while on the freeway. I stopped for a QC after 40.9 miles and measured the interior temperatures. The back of the unoccupied front passenger seat measured 70 F, but the top of the dash still measured 140 F. The car was off while I plugged in and activated the DCQC. I turned on the A/C after charge level climbed above 25% and left controls in AUTO with set point at 76 F. The controller selected recirculate and the discharge temperature stabilized at 44 F. The car was quite comfortable while charging, but the temperature of the top of the black dash with direct sun was 155 F by the time charging was complete.

Edited to add:
I had to stop for another DCQC on the way home after dark. Ambient temperature was 92 F and I left controls in AUTO. The discharge temperature stabilized at 42 F. Back of passenger seat was 57 F by the time charging was complete. The top of the dash was 72 F. I was happy with the A/C of my 2011 and am happy with the heat pump in my 2015 so I hope the original poster gets his 2017 fixed.
 
My 2017 SV's AC seems to work fine; however, it seems to me the AC makes a lot more noise under the hood than I remember my 2011 SL making.

When my windows are up I don't seem to hear the noise. Only if my windows are down, then I hear the AC working and making noise. Do others notice this noise also or is mine abnormal?
 
LeftieBiker said:
I drive in Eco all the time with A/C on, and the air is cold. It isn't a question of driving mode.

Agreed, i drive in ECO mode all the time too and blast the cold in the summer @ 64 degrees, works great.
 
GerryAZ said:
I agree--I think the heat pump system in my 2015 SL makes a little more noise under the hood than the A/C system in my 2011. Also, I think the radiator cooling fans make more noise.

LeftieBiker said:
I think the heatpump makes more noise than the A/C-only unit.

GerryAZ and LeftieBiker, thanks for feedback on my noise question
 
My 2016 SV heat pump can make a loud humming, almost buzzing, sound at full tilt when first starting the car if the cabin is heat soaked. In a few minutes it ramps down in speed to just maintain selected temperature, and then the majority sound is from the condenser cooling fans under the hood.

Starting the car in non-Eco mode allows maximum "full blast" cooling of the cabin for the first 30 seconds or so, but it only seems to make that decision at startup.
 
Scaramanga said:
GerryAZ said:
Make sure you are not in ECO driving mode. Press AUTO button and set temperature to 72 degrees F or lower (60 F is lowest setting). Amber LEDs in AUTO and A/C buttons should be illuminated and car should cool down quickly. Amber LED in RECIRCULATE button may be on or off depending upon difference between outside and inside temperatures. If the vents do not blow cold air and car does not reach a comfortable temperature in a few minutes while driving at least 18 miles per hour, take it to your dealer for repair.

Did you get this resolved?

I thought so but it is back to not working. The car had no coolant. They said they tested for leaks then filled it and maybe that it didn't get filled at the factory. However it is back to not working again now.
 
LeftieBiker said:
When my car is sitting with the A/C running, it sounds very much like an idling ICEV with a good exhaust system.

Mine sounds like an ICE as well now. It did not in the beginning however.
 
UPDATE...

They found the problem there was barely any Freon left they found the leak this time. It sounds like because of where the leak is they have to fully replace the condenser. Because it is a 2017 model there isn't even a part number for this part yet so they do not know how long it will take.

Ugh I'm sure I'm an outlier but super annoying for a car with 1k miles on the odometer.
 
Another update:

They replaced condenser. I was told it was all fixed go to pick it up. Take it for a test drive.. No A/C. Service person something must have happened in the 5 hours since we tested it.


I wish they would just give me another car at this point but Wisconsin Lemon law is 4 tries to fix a problem.
 
Update again: They think the o rings in new part were shot. That was until this morning.

They were going to replace just them but got Nissan involved and were told they needed to replace some big part. Of course the part is backordered so now here I sit. 14 days in shop so far. Only 16 more to go until they give me my money back or a new car.
 
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