Key Not detected issues (SOLVED.. battery not inserted correctly)

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Electryic

Active member
Joined
Jul 4, 2015
Messages
29
I researched this topic but didn't find a definitive answer, its really cold out and I am getting the "key is being discharged message", could that be due to low voltage in the dashboard?

My main key was getting this and then wouldn't be detected at all (its been really cold and I know my 12V battery needs to be replaced soon, as it only takes a few hours to fully trickle charge and I sometimes have to use my power pack jumper).

I replaced the battery in the key (Energizer 2025) and it still won't work at all, so I got my other key to see if it works and it works fine. Now I am stasrting to get the "key is being discharged" message (i.e. shows the key battery as 2/3's full) on the other key.

My question is can this have to do with the 12V battery being weak? I assumed once the Leaf is in ready to Drive the DC/DC kicks in and powers everything at least w/ 13V. Is there some reason I would still be getting key messages when the car is on (i.e. car went to "sleep" etc?)
 
It could be the 12v battery, it's always possible when you start seeing weird things happen. I might also suspect your remote batteries, it sounds like you replaced one remote with a new battery and it still doesn't work at all? I guess I'd make sure you've got the battery in correctly and if possible either check the battery with a meter or try another new unopened battery.
Do either remotes lock/unlock the vehicle with the remote button, and from more than a few feet from the car? if not again this might point to the remote battery and not vehicle battery. Your correct in thinking that if the vehicle is ON it should be charging the 12v battery in which case again it points to either a week remote battery or something not making good contact with the battery in the remote.
Do you have a 12v auto battery charger? If so you could put that directly on the battery, if your remotes still don't work correctly again it points towards your remotes.
 
jjeff said:
It could be the 12v battery, it's always possible when you start seeing weird things happen. I might also suspect your remote batteries, it sounds like you replaced one remote with a new battery and it still doesn't work at all? I guess I'd make sure you've got the battery in correctly and if possible either check the battery with a meter or try another new unopened battery.
Do either remotes lock/unlock the vehicle with the remote button, and from more than a few feet from the car? if not again this might point to the remote battery and not vehicle battery. Your correct in thinking that if the vehicle is ON it should be charging the 12v battery in which case again it points to either a week remote battery or something not making good contact with the battery in the remote.
Do you have a 12v auto battery charger? If so you could put that directly on the battery, if your remotes still don't work correctly again it points towards your remotes.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response. Yes my second key fob works fine, it unlocks everything from outside the car and works normally. The other key stopped working completely even with a brand new battery like something was reset inside with the RMDI radio signals, as if the car did something as a prevention method to disable the key.
 
Electryic said:
I replaced the battery in the key (Energizer 2025) and it still won't work at all, so I got my other key to see if it works and it works fine. Now I am stasrting to get the "key is being discharged" message (i.e. shows the key battery as 2/3's full) on the other key.
Click to expand...
It does not mean ""key is being discharged" nor does "show the key battery as 2/3's full".

From my '13 manual on page 2-24:
"3. Intelligent Key battery discharge
indicator
This indicator appears when the Intelligent Key
battery is running out of power.
If this indicator appears, replace the battery with
a new one. (See NISSAN Intelligent Key® battery
replacement in the Maintenance and do-ityourself
section.)"

I would not interpret it as 2/3rds full, but rather 2/3rds empty.

Usually, when I have to replace one IK battery, the other one happens to be low too. Manual says "Although the life of the battery varies depending on the operating conditions, the battery’s life is approximately 2 years."

And yes, weird stuff can happen when the 12 volt s low, including an inability to reliably (or at all) get into READY mode (green car w/arrows). If you attach a charged jump starter park to the positive terminal and negative wire attached to the PDM stack (on the '13+), not the negative terminal and the car more reliably goes into READY mode, then it's possible you have a low 12 volt. You can try measuring its voltage after it's sat over night w/a volt meter,

The 12 volt on my used '13 (built 5/2013, 1st in-service date near end of 6/2013, I bought it used July 2015) bit the dust in Oct 2015:
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=440106#p440106
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=440192#p440192
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=440419#p440419
 
cwerdna said:
Electryic said:
I replaced the battery in the key (Energizer 2025) and it still won't work at all, so I got my other key to see if it works and it works fine. Now I am stasrting to get the "key is being discharged" message (i.e. shows the key battery as 2/3's full) on the other key.
Click to expand...
It does not mean ""key is being discharged" nor does "show the key battery as 2/3's full".

From my '13 manual on page 2-24:
"3. Intelligent Key battery discharge
indicator
This indicator appears when the Intelligent Key
battery is running out of power.
If this indicator appears, replace the battery with
a new one. (See NISSAN Intelligent Key® battery
replacement in the Maintenance and do-ityourself
section.)"

I would not interpret it as 2/3rds full, but rather 2/3rds empty.

Usually, when I have to replace one IK battery, the other one happens to be low too. Manual says "Although the life of the battery varies depending on the operating conditions, the battery’s life is approximately 2 years."

And yes, weird stuff can happen when the 12 volt s low, including an inability to reliably (or at all) get into READY mode (green car w/arrows). If you attach a charged jump starter park to the positive terminal and negative wire attached to the PDM stack (on the '13+), not the negative terminal and the car more reliably goes into READY mode, then it's possible you have a low 12 volt. You can try measuring its voltage after it's sat over night w/a volt meter,

The 12 volt on my used '13 (built 5/2013, 1st in-service date near end of 6/2013, I bought it used July 2015) bit the dust in Oct 2015:
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=440106#p440106
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=440192#p440192
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=440419#p440419
Click to expand...

I believe there are two different indicator warnings, one that shows that the key battery is running low that has the first 1/3 black and the 2nd two third sections as white, and then another indicator warning that tells you that the battery in the key is being drained, as in its being subjected to RFID waves etc. The second different warning has the first two thirds white and the third section black. It means the battery is not low but it is being drained at an improper rate due to external factors.
 
Electryic said:
I believe there are two different indicator warnings, one that shows that the key battery is running low that has the first 1/3 black and the 2nd two third sections as white, and then another indicator warning that tells you that the battery in the key is being drained, as in its being subjected to RFID waves etc. The second different warning has the first two thirds white and the third section black. It means the battery is not low but it is being drained at an improper rate due to external factors.
Click to expand...
I've never heard of the bolded warning w/such iconography. AFAIK, there's only 1: key fob battery low.

I'm looking at page 2-23 of the '13 Leaf manual titled "INDICATORS FOR OPERATION". #3 is the only one that makes sense in this context
"3. Intelligent Key battery discharge
indicator
This indicator appears when the Intelligent Key
battery is running out of power.
If this indicator appears, replace the battery with
a new one. (See NISSAN Intelligent Key® battery
replacement in the Maintenance and do-ityourself
section.)"

There's another
"4. EV system operation for discharged
Intelligent Key system indicator
This indicator appears when the Intelligent Key
battery is running out of power and when the
Intelligent Key System and vehicle are not communicating
normally.
If this indicator appears, touch the power switch
with the Intelligent Key while depressing the
brake pedal. (See NISSAN Intelligent Key® battery
discharge in the Starting and driving section.)"

That picture shows the power button and an arrow pointing left and the fob, telling you to touch the fob to the button. You'd do that when the battery is so low (or not inserted at all) or when there's so much interference that the fob and car can't communicate properly.

I can't post pics since I'm no longer a paying member.

Download the PDF of the manual (e.g. from https://owners.nissanusa.com/nowners/navigation/manualsGuide) and search for INDICATORS FOR OPERATION.
 
LeftieBiker said:
Has anyone mentioned the possibility that the replacement battery also went dead? Cheap Chinese counterfeits of brand names will often do that.
Click to expand...
I suggested that in the second post of this thread, to try another new unopened battery before trying too much more. Yes occasionally batteries are bad or get that way shortly after being made, I have a little meter button cell battery tester that tests under a load but in a case like this even if the battery tested OK I'd still probably try replacing it. I purchase 2032's(yes I use those instead of the 2025 as they last ~ 60% longer) in 4 packs and always have several spares on hand, lots of things I have use that style and no for things like that I don't purchase off the internet but rather wait for them to go on sale at a local big box home repair center for ~$5 for a 4 pack of Energizers generally around Christmas as many toys use them.
 
I've been dealing with this same issue for months. I've taken it to the dealer and I was informed to purchase a new key which I denied because it was working the day before. Keep us updated!
 
The new battery was a new Energizer 2025 set of two. I just bought this second key fob from the Nissan Dealer in July of 2015. I wonder if there is a warranty on it as it costed almost $400.
 
Electryic said:
The new battery was a new Energizer 2025 set of two. I just bought this second key fob from the Nissan Dealer in July of 2015. I wonder if there is a warranty on it as it costed almost $400.
Click to expand...
Where did the CR2025 batteries come from? A legit store or from random reseller on Amazon?

I believe Nissan replacement parts normally come w/a 12-month/12K mile warranty, at min. See https://parts.nissanusa.com/.
 
As it turns out I had inserted the battery upside down (due to having done it before and thought I'd remembered correctly)

With new batteries it seems so far that my issues are solved. Thanks for all your help!

Edit: Interestingly enough it wasn't until I replaced the battery with my other new one in the other working key to see if it was the batteries, and the working key suddenly didnt' work that it occurred to me that maybe I was doing something wrong... Anyway just posting as it might help someone else later.
 

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