Instructions for replacing the 12v battery on the Leaf (Group 51R / Optima D51R)

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dhanson865

Well-known member
Joined
May 25, 2011
Messages
1,523
Location
Tennessee
I've done a hefty bit of google searches of this forum and youtube and in general and haven't stumbled across a how to for this yet.

Personally I've replaced the 12v in a Prius which I assume was harder to do (especially the part about crawling back to the hatch, finding the manual release lever, and actually getting the hatch to open, when the car wouldn't open or operate normally) but I'll be replacing the 12v in my Leaf in the next few days and thought it'd be nice to review someone's instructions and make it easier for others to find.

* Parts needed?
* Tools needed? (I used a 10mm socket, rachet, 1/4 to 3/8 adapter, some packing paper, and my hands)
* Safety concerns?
* Step by Step?

All the threads I've seen bounce around more about deciding if you need to do it or discussing the cost of going to a Lithium ion 12v replacement but none seem to cover the basics for a beginner or semi beginner to have a check list.

Bonus points if someone can point to a video of replacing a 12v in an actual Nissan Leaf.


edit: I've added Pics with notes further down.

The Carwings activation was inactive and the time on the car was Sunday at midnight instead of the current date/time. I had to set the time on the dash.

I did lose miles/kWh on the dash. Reset back to blank so I'll have fresh data.

I did NOT lose any significant settings, radio stations, window auto up, charge timers all remained.

I did have to connect to car wings once to get the carwings reactivated but it already knew the username and pw, so I just had to menu into carwings settings and tell it to sign in. Until doing that the charge timers were disabled but they came back on as soon as I activated carwings.

edit 2:

I had 10 DTCs before I replaced the old battery. Just swapping batteries cleared 9 of 10. I was unable to clear the 10th DTC immediately. I had to drive the car to work and then Leafspy Pro was able to clear the final DTC. The first and only time I needed the pro version, all because of a dead 12v battery. I'm going to say that means you'll likely need Leafspy Pro if you don't change your battery out before you start throwing DTCs.
 
The steps are essentially the same as any other car. The only suggested differences are to remove any devices from the OBD port and give it about 15 minutes for everything to turn off, after parking the car, opening the hood, and closing the doors. Disconnect the negative terminal, then the positive, swap and tighten down the new battery, connect the positive terminal, then the negative, and test for proper operation.

The only tools that should be needed are a socket set, an open end wrench, and a flat blade screwdriver. The only additional parts that may be needed are anti-corrosion pads or gel. If everything is in good shape, and nothing has been (or gets) broken, it should be a quick and easy job.

Safety concerns are minimal, since there are no explosive vapors under the Leaf hood. Be wary of the hood support, and don't jump or drop anything if it sparks when connecting the terminals. Disconnect the negative terminal first, and reconnect it last, so there is no danger of creating a short between the positive terminal and the metal car components. Also, do something to prevent the positive cable end from making direct contact with the metal body components while swapping the battery.

When my battery finally dies, I plan to replace it with an Optima Yellow Top. If no one else has done it by then, I'll make a video of the process.
 
I posted a thread on my replacement. All you really need for tools is a 10mm extended socket....Of course, in true MyNissanLEAF style, the debate goes on for 5 pages why people don't like my battery choice. But it was the cheapest name brand battery out there, appeared to be the most reliable choice, and to me those add up to a winner...No issues with it after a year plus a few months; it just works like it is supposed to....

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=19169&
 
baustin said:
The steps are essentially the same as any other car. The only suggested differences are to remove any devices from the OBD port and give it about 15 minutes for everything to turn off, after parking the car, opening the hood, and closing the doors. Disconnect the negative terminal, then the positive, swap and tighten down the new battery, connect the positive terminal, then the negative, and test for proper operation.

The only tools that should be needed are a socket set, an open end wrench, and a flat blade screwdriver. The only additional parts that may be needed are anti-corrosion pads or gel. If everything is in good shape, and nothing has been (or gets) broken, it should be a quick and easy job.

Safety concerns are minimal, since there are no explosive vapors under the Leaf hood. Be wary of the hood support, and don't jump or drop anything if it sparks when connecting the terminals. Disconnect the negative terminal first, and reconnect it last, so there is no danger of creating a short between the positive terminal and the metal car components. Also, do something to prevent the positive cable end from making direct contact with the metal body components while swapping the battery.

When my battery finally dies, I plan to replace it with an Optima Yellow Top. If no one else has done it by then, I'll make a video of the process.

Remove devices from the OBD port? Concern about bad data, shorting the device?

15 minutes for everything to turn off? What's the concern there? Won't everything power down as soon as you pull the negative cable?

I got a an Optima Yellow Top so I'll try and take some notes and see if I can't edit up something. Then we can add video later.
 
Randy said:
I posted a thread on my replacement. All you really need for tools is a 10mm extended socket....Of course, in true MyNissanLEAF style, the debate goes on for 5 pages why people don't like my battery choice. But it was the cheapest name brand battery out there, appeared to be the most reliable choice, and to me those add up to a winner...No issues with it after a year plus a few months; it just works like it is supposed to....

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=19169&

Yeah, that is why I want to write up something more standardized (vendor neutral). So someone can check a thread and and think "so oh, 10mm socket, check" without getting lost in the arguments.

I'll try and take notes on what I use and make an edit on the first post or make a new thread if needed to make it look neat. Heck maybe even edit the wiki. But I'm not looking forward to it, I just think it needs to be done.
 
I think the summative write up IS a good idea... For example to clarify that the existing cabling and 12V battery mount works fine with the upgrade to the Optima.

Slightly tangential, but not too off topic...

For what it's worth, since I've been reading the forum off and on over the years here and it saved me from a AAA call and likely tow as per below... My bet is I am driving on borrowed time on my 2011 12V battery...

I just got back from a 3 week away trip (and forgot to unplug the ODB reader for leaf spy which presented a small constant drain)... On pressing the boot up power up button, I came back to a bizarre display, reset clock, and a non operable car... Immediate suspect, dead 12V battery...

Luckily, had another nearby vehicle, powered LEAF down using the start button, applied jumper cables, and START button powered back up, and still no normal display (which I'd taken a picture of it)... Disconnected the jump and the positive to the LEAF battery and car, let it all sit for some moments, then reconnected the lead to the car, and then applied the jump and let it charge LEAF 12V battery... After waiting 5 minutes, car powered up normally. I let the LEAF sit parked for an hour in RUN mode to charge the LEAF 12V battery, and then check to see if it powered on and off normally, which it did... Not sure if I did all this right at all... But working normally for the last 3 days...

LeafSpy showed 13.6 volts shortly after power up tapering to 12.1. I suspect this is not enough to charge a discharged battery... I've ordered a CTEK de-sulfating charger, and since I've got a 2011 with an old battery, will be topping it off using the CTEK and then get it load tested at a Firestone Auto center to see if the battery does need to be recycled... Will also check the fluid levels of each cell and add distilled water if need be... The old battery has a shot at being fine (yes, being cheap but also just taking the journey).

The yellow top D51R deep cycle seems to be the best move, and with the CTEK maintainer on it every once in a while, even better (will use that on the ICE vehicle that I don't drive very often..)
 
dhanson865 said:
baustin said:
The steps are essentially the same as any other car. The only suggested differences are to remove any devices from the OBD port and give it about 15 minutes for everything to turn off, after parking the car, opening the hood, and closing the doors. Disconnect the negative terminal, then the positive, swap and tighten down the new battery, connect the positive terminal, then the negative, and test for proper operation.

The only tools that should be needed are a socket set, an open end wrench, and a flat blade screwdriver. The only additional parts that may be needed are anti-corrosion pads or gel. If everything is in good shape, and nothing has been (or gets) broken, it should be a quick and easy job.

Safety concerns are minimal, since there are no explosive vapors under the Leaf hood. Be wary of the hood support, and don't jump or drop anything if it sparks when connecting the terminals. Disconnect the negative terminal first, and reconnect it last, so there is no danger of creating a short between the positive terminal and the metal car components. Also, do something to prevent the positive cable end from making direct contact with the metal body components while swapping the battery.

When my battery finally dies, I plan to replace it with an Optima Yellow Top. If no one else has done it by then, I'll make a video of the process.

Remove devices from the OBD port? Concern about bad data, shorting the device?

15 minutes for everything to turn off? What's the concern there? Won't everything power down as soon as you pull the negative cable?

I got a an Optima Yellow Top so I'll try and take some notes and see if I can't edit up something. Then we can add video later.

Since having a device connected to the OBD port can keep some Leaf systems active, removing it is just to get things to an idle state sooner. There is also the remote possibility of a power surge, when reconnecting the battery, that could damage whatever is attached to the OBD port.

Like so many modern vehicles, turning the Leaf off does not immediately power down all systems. I don't know all the background processes that take place, and prefer to err on the side of caution. Thus, the suggestion for the 15 minute waiting period.

Everything will immediately power down when the battery cables are disconnected. The Leaf is a computerized vehicle, and I'm sure Nissan has engineered it to accommodate power-loss incidents. I have an IT background, and believe in doing an orderly shutdown, whenever possible.

Just to clarify, the Leaf uses a Group 51R battery. D51R is the Optima designation for their yellow top battery model that fits the Group 51R specification.
 
JimSouCal said:
I think the summative write up IS a good idea... For example to clarify that the existing cabling and 12V battery mount works fine with the upgrade to the Optima.

The optima D51R is a drop in replacement. The foam that it's packed in fits to the mm on the OEM battery just like it does on the Optima. You'll never know the difference based on length, width, height.


Before I started I had
uzzMzpa.png


just replacing the battery with no leaf spy work cleared all but one DTC.

edit: that DTC wouldn't clear with Leafspy Pro last night, but after my normal overnight charge session (about 2 hours on 240v) and a drive to work it cleared.
 
If you leave the handle on the battery you'll want to be sure there is at least a fingers width between the positive post and the handle when you tie down the battery. I put a small brush handle there to keep them spaced while tightening things up.

I actually tightened this down the first time with the handle in the way of the red post cover and had to undo, redo it.

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That lovely bracket is what ties the battery down in place. There is a front and back to it, the edge on the right with the 90 degree angle bracket goes towards the front of the car, away from the posts.
 
pFtjMvl.jpg


Looks like the OEM battery from 2011 to me.

mfg date 10/11 per the door jamb label, I think I see a Dec 10 2011 date code on the battery.
 
Decided to change out the stock 12 volt lead acid battery that my 2014 Leaf SL came with after 3 1/2 years with the Optima Yellow Top D51R battery. Was a pretty simple and easy process taking 15-20 minutes from start to finish.

- Ensured the car was parked, shut off and unlocked for 15+ minutes before battery replacement process
- Removed the old stock battery restraints and cables with a 10mm wrench (negative first followed by positive)
- Prep the new battery with a terminal cleaning brush and cleaned the connectors on the vehicle
- Applied the corrosion fiber washers to the new Optima Yellow Top D51R battery
- Placed the new battery in the vehicle, secured the restraints and reconnected the cables (positive first then negative)
- Powered on Leaf, validated all services were working
- TCU errored out, had to turn the vehicle off and remove the fuse controlling the TCU for 10 seconds and reinsert
- Signed back into Carwings
 
I just installed an Optima yellow top D51R in my 2015. A 10 mm deep socket fits the terminal clamps and hold down bolts. I turned the car off, opened the hood, disconnected and removed the old battery, used baking soda and water to clean battery tray and surrounding area, wire brushed terminals and posts of new battery, and then installed and connected the new battery. Power was disconnected for extended time because I was in no hurry and I let the battery tray dry before installing the new battery.

The trip odometers, miles/kWh, and elapsed time displays in the dash were cleared, but the information in the navigation system was retained. Radio presets, clock, recent routes, CarWings settings, etc. were all retained. Start/end times and days for charge timers were retained, but timers were turned off. Also, the auto up function of the driver window was disabled so I had to reactivate it by fully opening the window and then fully closing it and holding the switch in the close position for several seconds after the window was fully closed.

I started the car and used LEAF Spy Pro to check for DTCs. Four codes were present which were easily cleared. I drove around a bit and then charged the car overnight. There was no need to connect an external charger.
 
LeftieBiker said:
There was no need to connect an external charger.

Did you check the 12 volt battery voltage? I don't know about Optimas, but many batteries come with less than a full charge.

Voltage was 12.599 when I put it in. After charging the car overnight, it was 12.782 so DC-DC converter is charging it without issue and I have no reason to use an external charger.
 
I agree with the above instructions!

When I had to replace the battery, I used a 10mm socket and that is all.

I disconnected the positive terminal first, then the negative.

I removed the old battery and placed the new one in it's place.

I then connected the negative terminal first, then the positive!
 
RScottyL said:
I agree with the above instructions!

When I had to replace the battery, I used a 10mm socket and that is all.

I disconnected the positive terminal first, then the negative.

I removed the old battery and placed the new one in it's place.

I then connected the negative terminal first, then the positive!

Since the negative cable is grounded to the chassis, it is much safer to disconnect it from the battery first and connect it to the battery last.
 
GerryAZ said:
RScottyL said:
...I then connected the negative terminal first, then the positive!

Since the negative cable is grounded to the chassis, it is much safer to disconnect it from the battery first and connect it to the battery last.

This is important, so in case it isn't clear why:

If the negative terminal is connected while you are messing with the positive terminal, then if you accidentally touch your wrench to anything metal, your wrench will be shorting the battery and things will get exciting quickly. :shock:

On the other hand, if the negative cable is not connected, then there is nowhere you can short the positive terminal -- unless you drop your wrench across both terminals.

(Somewhat off topic, but once I accidentally dropped a wrench while working on my Jeep. Somehow it landed where it was shorting the starter solenoid, thus engaging the starter with the transmission in first gear. Luckily the parking brake was set, but it still was able to overcome this and slowly drive itself forward, partially crushing some stuff I had stored in front of it. The point being, stupid accidents happen, so don't rely on being lucky. I should have disconnected the battery first.)
 
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