Charger won't charge due to button

My 120 v charger has gotten fussy. It failed to charge a couple times. I later noticed that it would flash and beep a few seconds after I plugged it in and then not charge. So then I played around with it until I figured out that it would start charging if I giggled and pulled up on the button lock.
Has anyone had this? Dig into the connector to fix it?

I assume you are talking about the stock "brick" plug-in device that Nissan supplies with the car and that button you are referring to is the handle that plugs into the car (not the part the part that plugs into the outlet.

Technically the thing you are talking about is called an Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment (EVSE) and the button you are talking about is the release button on the J1772 handle that plugs into the car. That button (in addition to serving as a locking mechanism) is connected to a wire that is associated with what is called the proximity detector. When you press it down it tells the car to tell the EVSE (via the pilot wire) to stop sending high voltage electricity to the car so that it will not spark or arc if you unplug it while the car is charging. So if the button is sticking in the down position the car will not charge. With the EVSE unplugged you can safely take that J1772 handle apart and see if you can replace the spring in it (if necessary) with a newer stronger one (likely something from a hardware store).

My friend with another EV thought to trade chargers since his older car doesn't check button status to charge. However he ran into the issue that it wouldn't release.
After working it off, I took it apart. You can't really do it without basically breaking it. It has some metal pins with some tight interference keeping the halves together. But I can see the problem is the button is a lever with molded pins which have sheared off. The spring is fine.

stoneman30 said:

After working it off, I took it apart. You can't really do it without basically breaking it. It has some metal pins with some tight interference keeping the halves together. But I can see the problem is the button is a lever with molded pins which have sheared off. The spring is fine.

Click to expand...

Then looks like you will need to replace the j1772 plug itself
https://www.jpson.com/product/j1772-plug-cable-16a-for-electric-vehicle-ev-charging_p1032.html

Prior to it being taken apart would this item have been covered under the warranty?

The car has over 40,000 miles. So out of warranty.

This is the one that broke: http://charge.yazaki-group.com/english/product/normal_outlet_new.html

stoneman30 said:

The car has over 40,000 miles. So out of warranty.

This is the one that broke: http://charge.yazaki-group.com/english/product/normal_outlet_new.html

Click to expand...

L1 EVSE (aka trickle charge cable) should be covered by the 5 year/60k EV system warranty.

cwerdna said:

L1 EVSE (aka trickle charge cable) should be covered by the 5 year/60k EV system warranty.

Click to expand...

Yep. I don't have a MY2015 booklet, but here is what my MY2011 Warranty Booklet says:

2011 LEAF Warranty Information Booklet - Page 7 said:

ELECTRIC VEHICLE (EV) SYSTEM COVERAGE
- The EV System coverage period is 60 months or
60,000 miles, whichever come first.
- This warranty covers any repairs needed to correct
defects in materials or workmanship.
- EV System Coverage applies to components
listed below under the heading EV System, supplied
by Nissan, subject to the exclusions listed
under the heading "WHAT IS NOT COVERED".
- EV SYSTEM
Motor, Inverter unit, VCM, Reduction gear,
DC/DC converter, Onboard charger, Onboard
charger connector, and Trickle charge cable.

Click to expand...

Bolding in original.

I don't think that damage to a plug that you caused will be under warrantee, just as if you went over a pothole and damaged the suspension. PS, I have seen a trick to release the "locked" charger from the car with a thin bamboo skewer...

My local Crown Nissan gave me a new part under warranty. Thanks for the tip RegGuheert and cwerdna.
I think they were ok that it was taken apart. Although I explained I took the button out so I could use it. It did work with the button removed so the switch wasn't triggered and I could still press the microswitch. The switch is there to turn it off so it doesn't arc when you pull it out.
But after figuring out it was under warranty I thought it best to get a new one free.

stoneman30 said:

The switch is there to turn it off so it doesn't arc when you pull it out.

Click to expand...

You're welcome

This just happened to my OEM EVSE for my '13 SL. The EVSE handle release button doesn't come back up so the car sees it as having the release button pressed at all times and won't charge. It should be a simple mechanical fix but the handle can't be disassembled without total breakage. I tried to use a zip tie to hold the latch in place holding the button up, but found out I can't release it that way. It's apparently replaceable under warranty but I've had the unit upgraded to 240v and won't give that up. I could replace the handle for $60, but don't really feel the need to do that either.

So, I used a piece of rubber to jam the lock side down (holding the button up and fixing the button-switch problem). And then sawed the lock tooth off so it can be removed. Looks like a successful fix, and I don't really need to lock it in my garage.

RePo said:

This just happened to my OEM EVSE for my '13 SL. The EVSE handle release button doesn't come back up so the car sees it as having the release button pressed at all times and won't charge. It should be a simple mechanical fix but the handle can't be disassembled without total breakage. I tried to use a zip tie to hold the latch in place holding the button up, but found out I can't release it that way. It's apparently replaceable under warranty but I've had the unit upgraded to 240v and won't give that up. I could replace the handle for $60, but don't really feel the need to do that either.

So, I used a piece of rubber to jam the lock side down (holding the button up and fixing the button-switch problem). And then sawed the lock tooth off so it can be removed. Looks like a successful fix, and I don't really need to lock it in my garage.

Click to expand...

The handle on these is not easily replaceable to do properly with the correct and safe terminations. Pins are machine crimped and insulated for safety. If you had your unit upgraded by evse upgrade they can fix the handle issue but now that the end is cut off it likely unsafe and now unable to be properly repaired. The disconnect button cuts power to prevent arcing and with the button compromised and the tong off it could easily cause an arc issue. The tong end is not just to lock the handle, it insures the proper button press to release the switch in the handle and open the relays, this is a key safety provision. Without the lock this safety feature is easily bypassed. You should not use the handle like this.

I ended up with a spare that had this same problem. I popped the handle open and just removed the entire grey button assembly. Works great.

SLCSlugger said:

I ended up with a spare that had this same problem. I popped the handle open and just removed the entire grey button assembly. Works great.

Click to expand...

Wish I read this posting sooner! I tried to crazy-glue the plastic bearing-hinge back in place (but re-inforced with a steel bearing, and that simply broke the button assembly in half). Then I spent hours scouring the web for replacement J1772 plugs only to find out that I didn't really need it in the first place - assuming I remember to depress the [now exposed toggle] switch before unplugging.