Full motor cut out while driving

The car has completely cut out while driving at about 50 kph.This has happened four times now.It is a very late 2011 model,G type.
We purchased it in Japan ourself one year ago when it had done about 11,000kms .Now it is around 20,000Kms.The main EV battery has been in the range of 80% to 40% and there has been not other problems or fault lights come up.The temperature here has been about 18C or 64F so that is not too hot or cold. The dash and motor has complete cut out.The turning signal (indicators) did not work also and was rather dangerous when pulling off the road when the problem occurred.Once stopped on road side the car can be turned right back on with the start button as per normal.I have read on line that the 2012 had a recall for the push button start switch as it was binding.Has anyone experienced this kind of fault ?The button seems fine and seems not binding at all .Thank you.

I'd be booking it into the dealer right away. Warranty now expired?

DuncanCunningham said:

I'd be booking it into the dealer right away. Warranty now expired?

Click to expand...

Japanese model personal import to Australia. My guess is that there is no warranty on it.

Could the 12V battery cause the problem, shorting? Loose connections around the battery?

I would consider the 12v battery, as that has been reported to cause all kinds of problems.

Thank you all.Yes no warranty here as we purchased in Japan.I called Nissan here and they did not know of any problems or have had any.
I have just cleared the codes and waiting for the problem to happen again.Nissan said they can check the codes.Ok thank you I will check the 12V battery and change it.If there is a problem with the remote key could that shut it off ? Or once it is driving it should keep going even if the remote was for example dropped out the window. I have just found a link to a similar problem in Hawaii.I will share it here if that is ok.Number 2 on this page.
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Nissan/Leaf/2011/electrical/electrical_system.shtml#2

No problems with the remote keyfob. You can actually continue driving for miles even if your spouse has the key. Several people have reported this. However, once you shut the car off, you can't restart it without the long lost key (and hence how most people discover the problem).

EVdownunder said:

I have just cleared the codes...

Click to expand...

Do you remember what the codes were? That would help...

camasleaf said:

Could the 12V battery cause the problem, shorting? Loose connections around the battery?

Click to expand...

12 volt battery should be electrically disconnected when the car is powered on. now that does not mean the cause is not 12 volt in nature.

DaveinOlyWA said:

camasleaf said:

Could the 12V battery cause the problem, shorting? Loose connections around the battery?

Click to expand...

12 volt battery should be electrically disconnected when the car is powered on. now that does not mean the cause is not 12 volt in nature.

Click to expand...

I can't imagine why they would disconnect the 12v battery and in fact I'd argue they don't.

12v systems are usually routed from the 12v battery it acts as a buffer if the voltage is too high and is supposed to supplement if the voltage is too low.

Even if a particular system isn't fed directly from the battery the fact that the battery is in parallel with all the wiring for 12v systems mean a bad battery will soak up enough power to lower the voltage available to other systems. It definitely can cause problems with computer systems in the car and since the car is practically fly by wire that will cause problems with using the car.

dhanson865 said:

DaveinOlyWA said:

camasleaf said:

Could the 12V battery cause the problem, shorting? Loose connections around the battery?

Click to expand...

12 volt battery should be electrically disconnected when the car is powered on. now that does not mean the cause is not 12 volt in nature.

Click to expand...

I can't imagine why they would disconnect the 12v battery and in fact I'd argue they don't.

12v systems are usually routed from the 12v battery it acts as a buffer if the voltage is too high and is supposed to supplement if the voltage is too low.

Even if a particular system isn't fed directly from the battery the fact that the battery is in parallel with all the wiring for 12v systems mean a bad battery will soak up enough power to lower the voltage available to other systems. It definitely can cause problems with computer systems in the car and since the car is practically fly by wire that will cause problems with using the car.

Click to expand...

acting as a buffer does not mean the battery is active. sure it may buffer the result but it is not big enough to affect the voltage unless it somehow shorted or opened the circuit. something that would be more than transient in nature I would think

DaveinOlyWA said:

dhanson865 said:

DaveinOlyWA said:

12 volt battery should be electrically disconnected when the car is powered on. now that does not mean the cause is not 12 volt in nature.

Click to expand...

I can't imagine why they would disconnect the 12v battery and in fact I'd argue they don't.

12v systems are usually routed from the 12v battery it acts as a buffer if the voltage is too high and is supposed to supplement if the voltage is too low.

Even if a particular system isn't fed directly from the battery the fact that the battery is in parallel with all the wiring for 12v systems mean a bad battery will soak up enough power to lower the voltage available to other systems. It definitely can cause problems with computer systems in the car and since the car is practically fly by wire that will cause problems with using the car.

Click to expand...

acting as a buffer does not mean the battery is active. sure it may buffer the result but it is not big enough to affect the voltage unless it somehow shorted or opened the circuit. something that would be more than transient in nature I would think

Click to expand...

I don't think you realize how imporant the 12v battery is to a modern car. I suggest you read

http://priuschat.com/threads/weird-stuff-happening-mpgs-dropping-test-the-battery.73400/

and the equivalent threads here on MNL until you realize what a 12v battery issue can do to a fly by wire car.

Cliff notes version is a computer is only valid if it starts up with a stable voltage in the desired range. A voltage too low and it won't boot properly and adding main pack power won't fix that. The issue will remain until you turn the car off, fix the 12v battery issue, and then turn the car back on.

Thank you all.The car was first registered in Japan on March 2012.So the 12V battery could be the problem being this age.I am going to fit a new battery to make sure that is OK.The existing terminals are clean with no corrosion.The car did have one fault DTC when it was at 9,000 KMS when a dealer serviced in Japan.That code was S769 I think.Bit hard to read.Is there a list online of the DTC codes at all ?

EVdownunder said:

That code was S769 I think.Bit hard to read.Is there a list online of the DTC codes at all ?

Click to expand...

No code containing "769" in the 2011 service manual. DTC codes are 5 digits.

I remember reading somewhere a person had a loose connector at their main traction battery. But... your 12 volt battery should be easy to rule out with simple testing.

Evoforce said:

... But... your 12 volt battery should be easy to rule out with simple testing.

Click to expand...

Checking the 12V battery capacity with a tester at dealer or seller of automotive parts is the thing to do first. Often gives a quick accurate answer.

But if you read all the 12V battery threads, in some cases the capacity test has indicated the 12V battery was OK, and with further testing the 12V was determined to be bad, with something like an intermittent shorted cell.

Check carefully for a loose ground or positive connection in the 12-volt power distribution circuits. The main high-voltage DC contactor is closed and held closed by 12 volt supply. A momentary loss of 12 volt supply will drop out the contactor and drop power to to the traction motor, HVAC system, and DC-DC converter. Since the car starts after coasting to the side of the road, the 12-volt battery itself is probably OK (but still should be checked).

GerryAZ said:

Check carefully for a loose ground or positive connection in the 12-volt power distribution circuits. The main high-voltage DC contactor is closed and held closed by 12 volt supply. A momentary loss of 12 volt supply will drop out the contactor and drop power to to the traction motor, HVAC system, and DC-DC converter. Since the car starts after coasting to the side of the road, the 12-volt battery itself is probably OK (but still should be checked).

Click to expand...

That is absolutely correct and some sage advice.

Thank you.I have checked the codes tonight after driving it today.The car has not stopped at all today.It is very rare to stop but as I said has happened a few times now. Yes you guys are correct with the HVAC.There are a heap of codes under HVAC and no where else as yet.
I will list a few here: B2630,B2631,B27A0,B27A1,B27A2,B27A3,B27A4,B27A5,B27A6,B27A7,B27A8,B27A9,B2783,B2785,B2787,B2788,B2789,B278A,B278B,B278C,
B2781,B2782,B2780,B2784,B2786,B2791,B278D,B2771,B2772,B2773,B2774,B2775,B2776,B2777,B2779,B277A,B277B

After reading all the comments above and having a huge amount of codes showing in one day.I have to start with checking and replacing the 12V battery .I will take it and have the 12V tested and replace it what ever the outcome.Also we will check all the battery (12v) connections around the battery and the ground.Does anyone know where the other 12V connections maybe that are not close to the battery terminal itself that could be related.

EVdownunder said:

Thank you.I have checked the codes tonight after driving it today.The car has not stopped at all today.It is very rare to stop but as I said has happened a few times now. Yes you guys are correct with the HVAC.There are a heap of codes under HVAC and no where else as yet.
I will list a few here: B2630,B2631,B27A0,B27A1,B27A2,B27A3,B27A4,B27A5,B27A6,B27A7,B27A8,B27A9,B2783,B2785,B2787,B2788,B2789,B278A,B278B,B278C,
B2781,B2782,B2780,B2784,B2786,B2791,B278D,B2771,B2772,B2773,B2774,B2775,B2776,B2777,B2779,B277A,B277B

Click to expand...

All those are related to the Heater and Air Conditioning control system.

Could still be the 12v system, but I'm inclined towards thinking you have a problem with your Heater/AC.

B2630 SUNLOAD SENSOR
B2631 SUNLOAD SENSOR

B27A0 INTAKE DOOR MOTOR
B27A1 INTAKE DOOR MOTOR

B27A2 AIR MIX DOOR MOTOR
B27A3 AIR MIX DOOR MOTOR
B27A4 AIR MIX DOOR MOTOR
B27A5 AIR MIX DOOR MOTOR

B27A6 MODE DOOR MOTOR
B27A7 MODE DOOR MOTOR
B27A8 MODE DOOR MOTOR
B27A9 MODE DOOR MOTOR

B277A PTC ELEMENTS HEATER
B277B PTC ELEMENTS HEATER
B2771 PTC ELEMENTS HEATER
B2772 PTC ELEMENTS HEATER
B2773 PTC ELEMENTS HEATER
B2774 PTC ELEMENTS HEATER
B2775 PTC ELEMENTS HEATER
B2776 PTC ELEMENTS HEATER
B2777 PTC ELEMENTS HEATER
B2779 PTC ELEMENTS HEATER

B2780 ELECTRIC COMPRESSOR
B2781 ELECTRIC COMPRESSOR
B2782 ELECTRIC COMPRESSOR
B2783 ELECTRIC COMPRESSOR
B2784 ELECTRIC COMPRESSOR
B2785 ELECTRIC COMPRESSOR
B2786 ELECTRIC COMPRESSOR
B2787 ELECTRIC COMPRESSOR
B2788 ELECTRIC COMPRESSOR
B2789 ELECTRIC COMPRESSOR
B2791 ELECTRIC COMPRESSOR
B278A ELECTRIC COMPRESSOR
B278B ELECTRIC COMPRESSOR
B278C ELECTRIC COMPRESSOR
B278D ELECTRIC COMPRESSOR