URGENT! - Cannot charge anymore !
- Thread starter kilimats
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GeekEV
Well-known member
Those pictures show a number of alerts on the dash. Is that because the car wasn't fully on or is trying to tell you there's something wrong with your battery? Have you tried pushing the immediate charge button? The symptoms sound like perhaps you somehow set a charge timer.
Not good. Get it to the dealer. IIRC, there haven't been many reports of this behavior with the 2011. I think the 2013s many reports like this and it was traced to the on board charger (OBC). Did you recently charge with a GE Watts station? There have been some problems with that.
Reddy said:
Thanks guys !
the only GE station i can recall charging at was last year in Dec before the first occurrence at the shopping mall weeks after, here is the charger type and location http://www.plugshare.com/?location=15625" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;, doubt its related
GeekEV, no charge timer set, never used it. that app lets use force the charge if you have a time but i dont use it.
JeremyW
Well-known member
This happened to me once... it's a long shot, but try it:
Unhook the car from the charging station.
Pop the hood, unhook the 12v negative.
Remove the black plastic "shelf" piece where the hood latch is. There should be some plastic fasteners holding it down.
Unhook the J1772 cable, both the big orange cable (don't worry, it's not energized, it's just AC when charging) and the small black connector with two small wires.
Reinstall the J1772 cable, making sure everything is snug.
Reinstall the 12v negative.
Boot car.
You most likely have an HV isolation fault, which might be caused by a slightly loose J1772 cable. If this doesn't fix it, only a dealer can. :?
If you have an HV isolation fault, quick charging won't work either.
Unhook the car from the charging station.
Pop the hood, unhook the 12v negative.
Remove the black plastic "shelf" piece where the hood latch is. There should be some plastic fasteners holding it down.
Unhook the J1772 cable, both the big orange cable (don't worry, it's not energized, it's just AC when charging) and the small black connector with two small wires.
Reinstall the J1772 cable, making sure everything is snug.
Reinstall the 12v negative.
Boot car.
You most likely have an HV isolation fault, which might be caused by a slightly loose J1772 cable. If this doesn't fix it, only a dealer can. :?
If you have an HV isolation fault, quick charging won't work either.
JeremyW said:
Just did that, didnt really need to remove the plastic cover, i could access the three colored plug without taking it off, i unplugged all three (they were really tight and no dirt inside) but still same issue, charging shut off after a min ish
Are you confident the quick DC charger won't work? it uses a diff connector/wire to get to the battery
JeremyW
Well-known member
Yes, because once the car declares a hv isolation fault, the car refuses to charge or boot. It will allow driving but won't allow restart or charging (only if you reset like you've done)
lkkms2
Well-known member
What is the voltage on your 12volt battery? If too low, charge up or replace.
Edy
Well-known member
Thats happends to my Leaf many times, in my case the auxiliar 12v battery is low, i just jump start. Or charge it a little bit And problem solved. That small battery send the signals to all the computers in the car, from turn on the car and let you drive to let the car take the charge.
12.57 volts is just a bit low - not low enough to cause errors. More like the low end of the normal range.
Edy
Well-known member
Can you drive the car?
Edy
Well-known member
So, if you can drive the car, is not the battery, tried unplug and plug the orange socket under the hood again, that socket uses a special o-ring seal that holds air pressure inside. Plug it hardest you can. That's help me few times..
Edy said:
tried the circle organge cable but it barely disconnect, i got the rectangle orange unplugled though and replugged and heard the click. still no luck though...
Just dropped it at the dealer, waiting for the $1k+ labour/part repair cost....
Nubo
Well-known member
511 GIDs :shock:
The computer is confused or maybe getting crazy sensor readings. Hopefully Nissan can sort it out inexpensively.
The computer is confused or maybe getting crazy sensor readings. Hopefully Nissan can sort it out inexpensively.
Nubo
Well-known member
kilimats said:Nubo said:
Ya i thought that was oddly high, what does GID represent? only thing i understand from the leaf stat app is SOC and SOH and obsiouly tire pressure at bottom, rest is chinese to me
still waiting for stealership call back
GIDs is a representation of the energy stored in the battery. It's the number the LEAF uses internally. The highest value normally seen for a 100% charge on a new battery is 292, iirc. The number can be translated to kilowatt-hours and in your case you can see the LeafStat reporting 39 kilowatt-hours. Seeing as how these are 24 kWH battery packs, the computer's representation of the battery state is out of bounds.
