removable j1772 cable connection?

I got permission to put 220v outlet in at work (neighbor is certified electrician and agreed to do it for me)

One issue. Either way we have to put a hole in the wall. I would rather keep the charger inside (theft vandalism etc..) and simply pass the cable with the j1772 on the end through the wall

Problem is that is kinda a big hole

But the cable itself is not that big. A 1" hole would be plenty.

So. What kind of connection can I use for the 16amps I will draw so I can "cut" the cable and add a connector so I can pass it through the wall without making a huge hole.?

Would prefer to design for 60amps to future proof myself but for now and quite a few years likely I am stuck with the 3.3kW charger my 2012sv has so that is all I really need to handle.

Fit one of these under an in-use cover. Then, inside, wire it to the EVSE. Then use a J1772-to-J1772 cable. I was thinking of doing this at my house.

kubel said:

Fit one of these under an in-use cover. Then, inside, wire it to the EVSE. Then use a J1772-to-J1772 cable. I was thinking of doing this at my house.

Click to expand...

Well, if you put one of the J1772 inlets on the wall, you then you have a freak of a J1772 plug to plug cable that can't be used anyplace else. Plus, you have to cut the J1772 plug off the EVSE.

But, if you mount the J1772 plug poking through the wall, you would have a 1.75 inch hole, but now you can use this cable that will work everywhere:


http://shop.quickchargepower.com/JLONG-40-Amp-J1772-extension-cable-JL40A.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;





http://shop.quickchargepower.com/J1772-Socket-JS50A.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hmm that j1772 to j1172 is interesting. I imaging expensive however. What do they cost?

Note. No left behind connector. The plan is to cut the evse cable and then couple it back to itself again making it a whole evse again. I would decouple feed it through the wall and couple it. When I leave work I decouple and take both halves with me. So no "special" connector or wire left behind. Also means no wire or power left outside for anyone to mess with or get hurt with.

Well scratch the socket ext idea. Jesus nearly $400 I can buy another evse for that price.

I was digging that idea too.

Think banana plugs to couple two halves of the evse cable together. Or whatever is safe for this application

If someone rips it out of the wall the evse is safe and unharmed and I get another $100 j1772 cable

nerys said:

Hmm that j1772 to j1172 is interesting. I imaging expensive however. What do they cost?

Click to expand...

$299 for 20 feet. You can get it shorter for less.

It's actually completely redesigned from that picture, and now a full 40 Amp, the plug and inlet are 50 amp rated. The J1772-compatible extension cable maintains all functional and safety protocols of the J1772 charging system, including pilot and proximity signals. Also, disconnect signal works from any disconnect button inline with it.

You take it with you and leave the EVSE safely behind. It gets you charged when the inevitable happens: you encounter a blocked EV charging station; you need a little more cable to reach Uncle Joe’s Dryer outlet; or a guest blocked your home charger.

It now has a custom handle built of 6061-T6 aluminum alloy and TIG welded. It is powder coated with a special "grip" feature and is laser etched.

It uses a special 8 conductor cable assembly built to a unique specification for maximum flexibility and light weight. All power conductors are professionally crimped to military and aerospace specifications..

Many EVSEs (mostly the kits) have a cable that you attach and wire to the main box, thus eliminating this whole "problem". You just install the main unit inside, then push the J-1772 through the wall and wire it in. All you need outside is a cable minder of some sort, and a $25 holster.

What about one of these installed on exterior wall?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0021W9R68/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


Much cheaper than the other options.

nerys said:

I got permission to put 220v outlet in at work (neighbor is certified electrician and agreed to do it for me)

One issue. Either way we have to put a hole in the wall. I would rather keep the charger inside (theft vandalism etc..) and simply pass the cable with the j1772 on the end through the wall

Problem is that is kinda a big hole

But the cable itself is not that big. A 1" hole would be plenty.

So. What kind of connection can I use for the 16amps I will draw so I can "cut" the cable and add a connector so I can pass it through the wall without making a huge hole.?

Would prefer to design for 60amps to future proof myself but for now and quite a few years likely I am stuck with the 3.3kW charger my 2012sv has so that is all I really need to handle.

Click to expand...

If you have a J1772 on the oustside theft and vandalism are still issues. They can still cut off and take the J1772 to either sell it or just F with you.

Is the area really that bad? If so I would recomend a lock box to keep both the evse and J1772 inside after hours. In terms of theft if they want to get into it they will but it will eliminate easy and quick vandalism. The J1772 female outlet outside and using a J1772 male - male extension will attract the least attention.

You can also just put a 240v plug on the outside and use a turbo cord or evse upgrade, it will be the same work as you bringing a J1772 extension out everytime you plug in and will probably be the cheapest option (EVSE upgrade, not turbo cord). You can put the highest amp circuit you can, ie 60 amp or even 80 if the building will allow it and then it would work with any future EVSE.

I got the ok for a larger hole. So just going to use the cable hatch (posted above thank you)

And simply feed my cable and handle through the opening. Keeping the evse inside and more importantly the power outlet inside.

Vandalism has not proven to be a problem but you know murphy..... and since they are going out of their way to work with me on this AND not charging me for power I want to go out of my way to remove potential problems that will impact them.

Stolen cable only impacts me. Outside outlet could expose them if some kid or some punk screws with it and its live.

If my evse is outside they might get juiced stealing it or damage the building trying to remove it if I lock it to the building. Exposing them to costs of liability or building damage.

I dont want to give any possible reason for them to say this is more trouble than it is worth.

I can replace the cable and single j1772 for $99. The evse not so cheaply.

This also makes the electrical easier. Mount right next to the breaker panel like the one that is already their. Going to see if he can mount a 50amp and 30amp outlet (both) so I wont need adapters (I plan to eventually upgrade my stock evse's as well) I think the upgraded o es use a 30amp plug but the juicebox I am getting (I hope next week) has a 50amp plug.

When I was working I mounted my EVSE on the wall next to a roll up door. In good weather it was always open and even when it was closed the cable just compressed the weatherstrip slightly.

Just disconnect the cable from the EVSE (Not rocket science I assure you), and thread it through your 7/8" hole.
Put the EVSE up inside, connect it back up (only 4 or 5 connections depending on the EVSE), as as others have said, put a minder and holster up on the other side.
cost like $20.

I have this arrangement, and I put 3/4" green convoluted tubing around the cable, and hung it on a water hose reel.
Looks like a hose.

(Really looks like a hose at 3')