2011 Not Charging. Bad diode. Aerovironment Works.
- Thread starter darelldd
- Start date
Help Support My Nissan Leaf Forum:
tn77 said:
It really is absurd. I wonder - when they've done this "fix" over the years, what do they do with the perfectly-functional OBC's? If I could buy those up for $100, replace the surface-mount diode, and resell them for $1000, I could do pretty well! Then this repair would cost the customer maybe half the price of what Nissan is charging.
Or, a cheap diode could be placed in the pilot wire...
SageBrush said:
No worries. It looked much prettier after I shrunk the transparent shrink tube (the haze goes away, and it is totally clear). I've been soldering for over 40 years. My equipment has gotten much better, but my eyesight has gone to crap...For the record, I used the clear shrink tube on purpose, so I wouldn't have to guess about the orientation of the diode if it ended up not working!
specialgreen
Well-known member
I wonder if someone could make a J1772 inline diode cable: it could be something the size/shape of a soup can, which plugs into the car's J1772
port, and then you plug the charging station into this new device. Or, it could be shaped like a 1-foot J1772 extension cable. Obviously, not ideal. But you can wire a diode into your home L2 (or sell your EVSE and buy an OpenEVSE), so you'd only need this device for public Level2 charging. And some people would prefer it to cutting and soldering their pilot.
A J1772 in-line device could also include a decent surge protector, like an Eaton SPD. This would give you a bit of protection from flaky public charge-points, which are doing their best to break, spark or melt into your charge port. Think of it as a "condom for your car."
port, and then you plug the charging station into this new device. Or, it could be shaped like a 1-foot J1772 extension cable. Obviously, not ideal. But you can wire a diode into your home L2 (or sell your EVSE and buy an OpenEVSE), so you'd only need this device for public Level2 charging. And some people would prefer it to cutting and soldering their pilot.
A J1772 in-line device could also include a decent surge protector, like an Eaton SPD. This would give you a bit of protection from flaky public charge-points, which are doing their best to break, spark or melt into your charge port. Think of it as a "condom for your car."
Interesting idea for sure. Though I find adapters to be quite a bit of trouble in use. I especially like the surge protection idea.
In the end though, if you're going to put the effort in, I think doing it once and doing it right is the better choice than having to first create this adapter (and it wouldn't be cheap or easy) and then needing to fiddle with a loose piece each time you wish to charge. And selling my four (4) perfectly-functioning EVSEs because of this? No thanks.
In the end though, if you're going to put the effort in, I think doing it once and doing it right is the better choice than having to first create this adapter (and it wouldn't be cheap or easy) and then needing to fiddle with a loose piece each time you wish to charge. And selling my four (4) perfectly-functioning EVSEs because of this? No thanks.
NiallDarwin
Well-known member
Thanks for posting all of this right through to conclusion. I'm hoping this will fix my car which has just decided (as of yesterday) to refuse to charge on my EVSE.
There may be more to it as for the previous couple of days it had been being awkward on CHADEMO chargers. It was refusing to charge with the charger screen giving an error along the lines of, "Car needs to be turned off before charging". After unplugging and re-plugging a couple of times it worked. But that's beyond the scope of this thread I think.
PS, have you figured it out?:
There may be more to it as for the previous couple of days it had been being awkward on CHADEMO chargers. It was refusing to charge with the charger screen giving an error along the lines of, "Car needs to be turned off before charging". After unplugging and re-plugging a couple of times it worked. But that's beyond the scope of this thread I think.
PS, have you figured it out?:
darelldd said:
NiallDarwin said:
Ha. You bet! You should see my beer supply these days!
Meantime, we've charged on everything without fail. Even those pesky GE stations that apparently caused the problem in the first place. And I should give a shout-out to Clipper Creek who stood by to help me all through the process. They have been informed of the problem and the solution so they can help others who come to them with the same problem I experienced. Nissan, on the other hand, wants to hear nothing about this. It isn't their deal. It isn't part of their repair process. Doesn't matter, because they have a fix that works too: Replace the entire OBC. :sigh:
NiallDarwin
Well-known member
Excellent!
I think maybe its a blessing in disguise that Nissan dealers in NZ almost won't touch the Leaf (most are parallel imported). It means we don't even consider trying to use their "service"!
I think maybe its a blessing in disguise that Nissan dealers in NZ almost won't touch the Leaf (most are parallel imported). It means we don't even consider trying to use their "service"!
Joshuac0711
Member
- Joined
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Hi, I have a similar Issue with my Nissan Leaf 2016, The car does not charge at all on L2 and L1 chargers, The charging process starts normally and after exact 2 minutes the car disconnects and shows Alarm Light and this DTC codes are present P316C, P3171, P3170 and B29C1, what can I do? can be the same diode?
Joshuac0711
Member
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SageBrush said:
The car its located on Guatemala City and here is no Leaf Dealer, the Local Dealer of Nissan does not support this car.... If I need to claim Warraty I nee to move back to USA or Mexico....
Stanton
Well-known member
Joshuac0711 said:
That sounds more like an EVSE issue, especially if a re-start/re-boot clears the codes. Have you tried more than one type/brand?
The nice thing about a failed diode is that they usually short. That means that an external diode is easy to add. A 1n4148 will work but it is fragile. The 1N4003 mentioned in this thread is a better choice mechanically. It has far better leads. It you can support it a 1N4148 will work fine.
You are dealing with a 1KHZ square wave. Any modern diode should work fine but some are sturdier than others. It is not like you are dealing with a high frequency switcher where only selected diodes work.
You are dealing with a 1KHZ square wave. Any modern diode should work fine but some are sturdier than others. It is not like you are dealing with a high frequency switcher where only selected diodes work.
in our case it looks like the good news is its not the diode as most of the time it works on other stations, but it does randomly stop from time to time due to some *other* issue. unfortunately this other issue seem to be a bit stranger... thread here:
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=25091
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=25091
Deleted member 10548
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darelldd said:
Hi Darelldd,
Its been a couple years since your post -- was splicing in the diode to your Clipper Creek charger the long term solution? Did you have to open up the charger in order to do the splicing, or did you take apart the charge handle?
thank you
-Gary
Hi Gary,
If you have a look at the second page of this thread, you'll see an image of the diode inside the Clipper Creek. Opening the charger is as easy as opening a car door, so nothing was taken apart. That proved it would work, but would only help THIS charger. So I eventually installed that same diode on the car behind the charger inlet, and it continues to work to this day.
I documented this fix pretty darn well, and will be happy to dig that all up and send it along to you if you are interested. Please drop me an email. My address is my user name on this forum at gmail. I won't be able to get to it immediately, but I'd like to help others as others helped me!
If you have a look at the second page of this thread, you'll see an image of the diode inside the Clipper Creek. Opening the charger is as easy as opening a car door, so nothing was taken apart. That proved it would work, but would only help THIS charger. So I eventually installed that same diode on the car behind the charger inlet, and it continues to work to this day.
I documented this fix pretty darn well, and will be happy to dig that all up and send it along to you if you are interested. Please drop me an email. My address is my user name on this forum at gmail. I won't be able to get to it immediately, but I'd like to help others as others helped me!
Deleted member 10548
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Thank you Darrell, found the post and the pictures on Smug Mug. If my chadmo charging is okay, will consider it. https://darelldd.smugmug.com/Automotive/Electric-Vehicle/n-7QXrQ/Chargers/Nissan-Leaf-charging/
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