Battery health of this used 2011 Leaf

I'm looking at buying this used 2011 Leaf with 31K miles. Based on this photo of the driver display, can you tell anything about the battery health? From my limited knowledge, it looks like it can take another 2 hours of charge at 240V, giving it a total range of 50 miles? Is the range estimation based on recent driving habits?

https://i.imgur.com/gEFhVCG.jpg

It's a 7 bar car. http://www.electricvehiclewiki.com/wiki/battery-d1/ under Battery Capacity Behavior has a table of how much each capacity bar supposedly represents. Forget the silly number on the right, aka the guess-o-meter (GOM).

Why would you want to buy it? How much? Where did the car reside before per Carfax/Autocheck? Build month?

Can you update your location info via your user name in the upper right > User Control Panel > Profile tab? That way, we don't need to ask in future posts/threads or do sleuthing to deduce it.

What are your daily driving needs in terms of miles? How much city vs. highway? Will you have the ability to charge at your work/destinations?

If you look at the large "bars" that indicate state of charge on the right side of the photo, you will see much smaller bars separated slightly from the large ones. These are the "Capacity bars." A new Leaf will display 12 of these bars. As the battery pack loses capacity, the little bars start to vanish, from the top down. (The charge bars will still go up to 12, because the car will still be charging to whatever capacity it has.) The car shown has 7 capacity bars left, which is...bad.

Cwerdna slipped ahead of me.

I'm going to post a link to my used Leaf buying guide. It should help you.

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=26662&p=538030

You can do far better than this 7 bar car, with roughly a 35 mile range...without heat.

Thanks for the replies. The car was first sold in Oregon and recently moved to California. Traded in to a GM dealer and being resold. I'm going to pass on it.

The fact that it resided mainly in Oregon is yet another testament to the terrible longevity of the 2011 through 3/2013 version of the Leaf battery. You practically have to keep them refrigerated to preserve them. Please read the buying guide linked above before looking at more used Leafs.

fr10 said:

Thanks for the replies. The car was first sold in Oregon and recently moved to California. Traded in to a GM dealer and being resold. I'm going to pass on it.

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If you're still Leaf shopping, please answer the below:
What are your daily driving needs in terms of miles? How much city vs. highway? Will you have the ability to charge at your work/destinations?

Also, approximately where in CA are you? Can you update your profile to reflect that? How long would you plan to the keep the car?

If the OP just reads the buying guide that should cover it. Or just answers questions here and takes our answers to heart...but the guide is a better tool for avoiding bad deals.

I have a 2012 with almost the exact same mileage and still have 11 bars. That's not good. I wouldn't buy it unless it was really cheap and had a very short commute and also lived close to all my daily activities.

Yeah, but we never found out about the price... etc....

I would buy it for $3k...

powersurge said:

Yeah, but we never found out about the price... etc....

I would buy it for $3k...

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Yeah exactly! I'd buy it for 3k too, but only if I could use it. Currently I could but a 7 bar car is not for everyone. Up here in Minnesota, you'd be lucky to get 20 miles on a full charge with a 7 bar car on some January days. The 2011-2012 leaf is not a great car for extreme cold (like 30-50 below zero F).

dex8425 said:

powersurge said:

Yeah, but we never found out about the price... etc....

I would buy it for $3k...

Click to expand...

Yeah exactly! I'd buy it for 3k too, but only if I could use it. Currently I could but a 7 bar car is not for everyone. Up here in Minnesota, you'd be lucky to get 20 miles on a full charge with a 7 bar car on some January days. The 2011-2012 leaf is not a great car for extreme cold (like 30-50 below zero F).

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Agree and what makes it worse is the '11s and 12s use a glycol(liquid) based heater where they didn't insulate the liquid lines from the outside cold! The post '12 Leafs either used a air based heater(like a space heater) on the S model Leafs(which I have) and actually heat quite quickly and don't have to waste heat heating cold glycol, and of course the post '12 non S model Leafs use a heatpump heater that is more efficient(at warmer than single digit temps). What I'm not sure about is if the heatpump Leafs need to heat some kind of glycol loop when in sub zero temps?? if so in those temps the S model Leafs may be more efficient in sub zero temps......I'm guessing L.B. might know and if they do use a liquid loop, hopefully they are now insulated, improving efficiency.

What I'm not sure about is if the heatpump Leafs need to heat some kind of glycol loop when in sub zero temps?? if so in those temps the S model Leafs may be more efficient in sub zero temps......I'm guessing L.B. might know and if they do use a liquid loop, hopefully they are now insulated, improving efficiency.

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Heatpump-equipped Leafs also have a PTC heater, and use that along with the heat pump, even at warmer temps.