Problems starting my 2014 Leaf

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Chipsmith

New member
Joined
Oct 12, 2017
Messages
4
I've had my Leaf for just over 2 years and loved it until three days ago. I got in and tried to start it and it wouldn't go into gear. I didn't hear the sounds it makes when starting up, though the dash lit up. It looked like every warning light on the dash was lit up. I shut it down and tried to reboot and that worked on the 5th try. I thought this was just a one-off until this morning when the same thing happened. This time I tried 10 times, finally shutting down and connecting to the charger, thinking that might make it reset. That worked. Anyone experienced anything like this ?
 
It is likely a very low 12 volt battery. Charge it up with an external charger and try again. Do you leave the car plugged in but not charging a lot?
 
Lots of strange things happen when the 12 volt battery is deteriorating. Try charging it with a separate charger or get a new one.

If that is not the problem, then I suppose the next step would be to get LeafSpy Pro app for your phone and an inexpensive blue-tooth adapter. With that you can read and clear the DTC codes the computer is issuing.
 
Yep on the replies.

Try measuring the voltage of the 12 volt after the car has sat overnight or when it's in this state w/the car turned totally off. I suspect it's low or has major voltage sag once you put a load on it.
 
As others have already stated, most likely just a failed 12-volt battery. Both my 2011 and 2015 acted the way you describe when the original 12-volt batteries failed. I believe repeated attempts to boot the car gets a little current from the DC-DC converter into the failed battery each time. If the battery voltage gets high enough, then all of the modules and associated CAN Bus communications work ok and the car boots successfully.

For those who may have this happen in the future, a booster battery is the easiest way to get going again. If you don't have a booster battery, you won't hurt anything by trying to boot the car several times. If you get a successful boot into READY mode, don't turn the car off until you get to a place where you can deal with a failed 12-volt battery.
 
The old trick of running the headlights on high for 30 seconds (then turning them off before attempting a start) may also work in Winter. It warms the cells. A booster battery is the best bet though. You can make a cheap one from a UPS type battery, but make sure the clamps and wiring are heavy enough to handle about 15 amps, even from a small (~10AH) battery.
 
LeftieBiker said:
The old trick of running the headlights on high for 30 seconds (then turning them off before attempting a start) may also work in Winter. It warms the cells.
I've never heard of that trick before. I personally would rather not do that as it might flatten the battery even more.
 
That might work if the battery was in good condition and well charged, just really cold. It would not help if the battery was weak or defective. Since the LEAF does not take any more current to boot up than the high beam headlights, there would be no benefit.
 
GerryAZ said:
That might work if the battery was in good condition and well charged, just really cold. It would not help if the battery was weak or defective. Since the LEAF does not take any more current to boot up than the high beam headlights, there would be no benefit.

Maybe. Maybe running a simple resistance load on a cold, low battery can revive it enough for it to start by warming it, where just trying to start the car wouldn't. I don't know, never having tried it.
 
Well, i went down to one Auto Zone to have the battery tested and the idiot there said, "we can't test it" ... down the road to another Autozone and a guy tested it with the same tool. He said the battery was working at about 60%. They sold batteries that were compatible, but they would not install it. They said it was tricky and complicated and wouldn't do it . Why can't i just pull the old battery out and replace it ? What's the scary part ?
 
Chipsmith said:
Well, i went down to one Auto Zone to have the battery tested and the idiot there said, "we can't test it" ... down the road to another Autozone and a guy tested it with the same tool. He said the battery was working at about 60%. They sold batteries that were compatible, but they would not install it. They said it was tricky and complicated and wouldn't do it . Why can't i just pull the old battery out and replace it ? What's the scary part ?

As long as the replacement is the right size and terminal orientation (the spec is group 51R), removal/installation is nothing out of the ordinary.
 
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