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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 7:32 pm 
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Location: San Diego, CA
Delivery Date: 04 Jan 2011
Leaf Number: 0191
Tonight while "Trickle" charging my LEAF at L1, I inserted a "Kill-a-watt" device to measure the current.

It moves around a bit at first as the handshaking occurs, but once the dust settles, it read about 11.5 amps steady-state.

Since my EVSE inspection went well on Friday, I'm hoping that my 2nd meter will be installed in a few days and I can fire up the L2 charging....

RedRandy


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 8:30 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 23, 2010 6:44 pm
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Location: Oceanside, Ca.
Delivery Date: 08 Jan 2011
Leaf Number: 0175
Randy wrote:
Tonight while "Trickle" charging my LEAF at L1, I inserted a "Kill-a-watt" device to measure the current.

It moves around a bit at first as the handshaking occurs, but once the dust settles, it read about 11.5 amps steady-state.

Since my EVSE inspection went well on Friday, I'm hoping that my 2nd meter will be installed in a few days and I can fire up the L2 charging....

RedRandy


Can you guesstimate how many miles you're gaining per hour of L1 charging?

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 8:37 pm 
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Location: San Diego, CA
Delivery Date: 04 Jan 2011
Leaf Number: 0191
I guess I haven't measured it that precisely, but I thought it was around 5 miles of additional range per hour of L1 charging...

Another data point is that when I press the power button on the Kill-a-watt it reads about 1300 watts, give or take.

With 100% efficiency, and assuming that 4.3 miles per kwh is an average that I see a lot on my car, then one hour of L1 charging would be 1.3 kwh.

1 hour of charging would equate to 5.5 miles at 100% efficiency (4.3 x 1.3). So maybe 5 miles is not so far out of line....


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 9:42 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2010 9:53 pm
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Location: Morgan Hill, CA, south of San Jose
Delivery Date: 02 May 2011
Leaf Number: 1537
1300 watts at 11.5 amps is only 113 volts, unless some RMS nonsense is going on. Is your voltage really that low?

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 09, 2011 9:44 pm 
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Location: San Diego, CA
Delivery Date: 04 Jan 2011
Leaf Number: 0191
The Kill-o-watt reads 118 volts unloaded and 114 volts when it is drawing the L1 juice....


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 12:51 pm 
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Location: Laguna Hills, Orange Co, CA
Delivery Date: 29 Mar 2011
Leaf Number: 000855
4 volts loss through house wiring (and possibly "poor" connections) when drawing 11.5 amps?

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 3:36 pm 
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Location: Morgan Hill, CA, south of San Jose
Delivery Date: 02 May 2011
Leaf Number: 1537
Yes, I hope you don't have undersized wiring somewhere. You may want to watch out for a 45w "heater" in your walls.

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End of April 2013: Traded my 2011 SL for a 2013 S with charge pkg.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 4:15 pm 
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Location: San Diego, CA
Delivery Date: 04 Jan 2011
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I'll do some checking, but it is a 20amp GFCI circuit in the garage with a short run to the main panel.

I have an external voltmeter that I'll test with to verify.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 4:37 pm 
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Location: San Diego
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Randy wrote:
I'll do some checking, but it is a 20amp GFCI circuit in the garage with a short run to the main panel.

I have an external voltmeter that I'll test with to verify.

Might be interesting to measure the voltage on a separate circuit (but the same leg of your 240V feed) to see if the voltage sag is detectable there, too. I wouldn't expect a 12GA / 20A circuit to sag under 12A of load... Have a rough estimate of the length of your run?

For example, a 20ft run of 12GA with 12A of load on it should only see a voltage drop of about 1V.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 5:04 pm 
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garygid wrote:
4 volts loss through house wiring (and possibly "poor" connections) when drawing 11.5 amps?



Not every house has a 120V even at the panel. I see some with 130! and some at 113 or so.

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