Can you upgrade my upgraded EVSE?

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MattInAkron

Member
Joined
May 5, 2015
Messages
5
Greetings, fellow Leaf enthusiasts. I purchased a used upgraded 2013+ EVSE from another member on this site, and am totally happy with it. However, I've come to realize that the previous owner did NOT elect to upgrade to 16A L1 charging capability, and the unit tops out at 12A.

I would really like to upgrade my existing unit to be able to charge at 16A on 120V - as described on EVSEUpgrade.com. I'm willing to pay to have this work done. Unfortunately, I can not get anyone from that website to reply to my repeated emails.

Perhaps there is someone on this forum who could take my existing upgraded unit, and modify the max charging amperage on 120V from 12A ---> 16A?

Please PM me if this is something you'd be interested in doing, and what fee you would charge.

I realize there are stand-alone chargers out there that can do this for around $220 - but I'm already invested in my current upgraded EVSE and would like to find a way to make it work to meet my needs.

Thanks!
Matt
 
AFAIK it's nothing that really needs to be "upgraded" but rather you just have to pay the $20(or is it $25??) to purchase a 20a adapter cable and then EVSEUPGRADE will send you the "unlocking" sequence to let your EVSE charge at 16a @ 120v. At least I believe thats how my EVSEupgrade'd EVSE would work, if I wanted to fork over the extra money as I already have a 20a adapter cable.
 
When I had the original EVSE from my 2011 upgraded after the crash, I specifically asked for it to be upgraded to the highest currents for both 120 and 208/240 volts. I said I would sign whatever disclaimers were needed, but it still came with maximum of 12 amperes at 120 volts. It is adjustable down to 6 amperes at either voltage and goes up to 20 amperes for Level 2. I believe it is the latest upgrade version of the 2011/2012 EVSE.
 
GerryAZ said:
When I had the original EVSE from my 2011 upgraded after the crash, I specifically asked for it to be upgraded to the highest currents for both 120 and 208/240 volts. I said I would sign whatever disclaimers were needed, but it still came with maximum of 12 amperes at 120 volts. It is adjustable down to 6 amperes at either voltage and goes up to 20 amperes for Level 2. I believe it is the latest upgrade version of the 2011/2012 EVSE.

If I underestand correctly, the 2011/12 Leaf itself was only capable of 12A charging. My vehicle is 2013, and my EVSE is the 2013/14 version.

jjeff said:
AFAIK it's nothing that really needs to be "upgraded" but rather you just have to pay the $20(or is it $25??) to purchase a 20a adapter cable and then EVSEUpgrade will send you the "unlocking" sequence to let your EVSE charge at 16a @ 120v. At least I believe thats how my EVSEUpgrade'd EVSE would work, if I wanted to fork over the extra money as I already have a 20a adapter cable.

If that's all that is required, that would be amazing. Coincidentally, Mark from EVSE Upgrade replied to one of my emails on Friday and now we're in touch on the topic. He asked for pictures of my unit, hopefully to verify it came from them so he can send me whatever this unlocking sequence is.
 
My "plan B" - if my EVSE Upgrade'd unit can't be further upgraded to 16A L1 charging - is this unit I purchased which should arrive today:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077VWBCJ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would then trade/sell my upgraded unit for a stock EVSE and keep the stock Nissan EVSE at home for 12A charging and carry the 16A unit with me to work for 16A charging. This would actually be nice in a way, as I wouldn't have to constantly be unplugging/transporting/plugging-in a single EVSE. Plus, I'd have to constantly be reprogramming the charging rate on my upgraded EVSE from 16A at work down to 12A at home.
 
MattInAkron said:
My "plan B" - if my EVSE Upgrade'd unit can't be further upgraded to 16A L1 charging - is this unit I purchased which should arrive today:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077VWBCJ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would then trade/sell my upgraded unit for a stock EVSE and keep the stock Nissan EVSE at home for 12A charging and carry the 16A unit with me to work for 16A charging. This would actually be nice in a way, as I wouldn't have to constantly be unplugging/transporting/plugging-in a single EVSE. Plus, I'd have to constantly be reprogramming the charging rate on my upgraded EVSE from 16A at work down to 12A at home.
When I had my '13 EVSE upgraded back in '14 I had it upgraded to 20a L2, and assumed L1 would be 16a. Unfortunately that was not the case and it would only go up to 12a max. I called EVSEupgrade and they said all that would be required to be able to charge at 16a 120v was to purchase their 20a 120v to L6-30 adapter cable. They said they'd then give me the sequence to unlocking the 120v to 16a. Truthfully if I had known this from the beginning I would have paid the $20?? for the cable and had it included with my returned upgraded EVSE. As it was they wanted to charge another $8.95(or whatever it was, which I thought was high for such a little cable) because the cable wasn't ordered when I had my EVSE upgraded. I explained if I had known at the time it wasn't going to go up to 16a 120v I would have ordered the cable, but no one told me and their website didn't make it clear.
I wasn't too happy with how the whole thing went down and since I already had a EVSE that went up to 16a and more @ 120v, I just dropped it. Like you?? I have the opportunity to charge at work on a rather robust 20a circuit so I wanted to take advantage of as much current as I could. In the end I ended up using a EVSE where I could set the 120v charging at 18a and never had a problem. It's a dedicated outlet and I generally only charged for an hour or two max at a time and while things get warm, they never get hot nor have I ever blown a breaker.
Don't get me wrong, I was happy with the EVSEupgrade people and their quality, I just wasn't too happy about having to pay for something I already had(a 20a 120v to 240v adapter cable) and a code I should have been given with my $300 upgrade.
Let us know how it works out, if you have the L6-30 upgrade(which it sounds like you do) I believe all they'll make you do is pay for the converter cable and shipping to you(should be less than $30). I wish you luck with your other EVSE, I have one similar and it indeed charges at 16a on both 120v and 240v but note you can't dial it down. IOW plugging it into a 15a outlet will blow your breaker, for that reason I'd not have that be my only EVSE in the car as if you need to charge somewhere you only have access to 15a, you won't be able to :(
I don't believe you said, but you do have a post '12 Leaf with the 6.6kw charger don't you? If not(a S model without the charger package) you'll be limited by your car's charger to 12a @ 120v and 16a @ 240v, no matter how large a EVSE you have :)
 
I will be following this thread to see how it works out. I would really like to upgrade the 120-volt output of my upgraded unit to the full 20 amperes since I have a 30A twist lock receptacle on my portable generator. I was disappointed when my unit would only go up to 12 amperes after I did everything I could to make it clear that I wanted maximum output when I sent it in for original upgrade.
 
You could always rebuild it with OpenEVSE parts. O[penEVSE supports up to 16A on L1. The default is 12A for compatibility. I have upgraded three units so far. Nothing in the unit is reusable so you need all new parts. This is unlike an Aeroenvirement unit I did that used the original coil and contactor, In the Nissan EVSE everything is potted in epoxy.
 
Glenn said:
You could always rebuild it with OpenEVSE parts. O[penEVSE supports up to 16A on L1......
Are you sure open EVSE maxes out on 120v? Neither my Juicebox nor 30a Chinese EVSE treats 120v any different than 240v, my Chinese EVSE can output to a maximum of 30a @ 120/240v and my Juicebox can be set up to 60?? amps, either 120 or 240v. If course most Leafs top out at 27.5a @ either 240 or 120v and the older ones top out at 16a @ 240v and 12a @ 120v. The S models without the charger package tops out at 16@ 240v but I'm not sure if they still top out at 12a @ 120v or if they also go to 16a @ 120v.....
Funny thing is my old '12 EVSEupgrade'd EVSE hooked to my '13S(with charge package) will output 20a on either 240v or 120v(not adjustable) :? EVSEupgrade offered to upgrade it again for a $100?? fee, but I thankfully declined ;)
 
Without changing the L1 table it follows the J1772 spec and it max's out at 16A. That said you can edit the max and the table for more. I tested my eGolf at its 30A max at 120V. Given its defaults it adheres to the J1772 spec but since it is open you can edit the tables.

In my short test I simply forced the L2 table. L1 or L2 is purely cosmetic and it only affects the display. The actual pilot could care less about the voltage.

L2 240V is in all cases faster. Assuming a leaf max's at 27.5A 240 at 27.5A is much faster than the same current at 120V. I know from testing my Leaf that it only wants current. It does read the pilot so 12A EVSE's work fine.

High current at 120V only makes sense it 120V is all that is available. In that case use what you have.
 
Are you sure you want to? 99% of 120V outlets are connected to 15A circuit breakers through wiring rated for 15A. 12A is a very reasonable maximum for that common situation. 15A rating is a maximum, not a suggested goal. An EVSE pulling 16A will trip circuit breakers and/or possibly overheat old wiring and outlets. Is that wise or desirable? Seems like leaving it at 12A is the smarter and more versatile play, if recharging "anywhere" is the goal. There's a reason why the upgrader makes you sign a release form for the 120V/16A mod.
 
erco said:
Are you sure you want to? 99% of 120V outlets are connected to 15A circuit breakers through wiring rated for 15A. 12A is a very reasonable maximum for that common situation. 15A rating is a maximum, not a suggested goal. An EVSE pulling 16A will trip circuit breakers and/or possibly overheat old wiring and outlets. Is that wise or desirable? Seems like leaving it at 12A is the smarter and more versatile play, if recharging "anywhere" is the goal. There's a reason why the upgrader makes you sign a release form for the 120V/16A mod.
While that may be true in very old homes, most modern homes use 20a breakers and wiring. Also basically all commercial outlets are on 20a circuits. Oh and I believe your 99% is off, AFAIK all homes have been required to have 20a outlets in the kitchen area for many years, I know my home(vintage '74 with at one time AU wire :eek: ) had many 15a circuits but did have 2 20a circuits in the kitchen :)
 
jjeff said:
erco said:
Are you sure you want to? 99% of 120V outlets are connected to 15A circuit breakers through wiring rated for 15A. 12A is a very reasonable maximum for that common situation. 15A rating is a maximum, not a suggested goal. An EVSE pulling 16A will trip circuit breakers and/or possibly overheat old wiring and outlets. Is that wise or desirable? Seems like leaving it at 12A is the smarter and more versatile play, if recharging "anywhere" is the goal. There's a reason why the upgrader makes you sign a release form for the 120V/16A mod.
While that may be true in very old homes, most modern homes use 20a breakers and wiring. Also basically all commercial outlets are on 20a circuits. Oh and I believe your 99% is off, AFAIK all homes have been required to have 20a outlets in the kitchen area for many years, I know my home(vintage '74 with at one time AU wire :eek: ) had many 15a circuits but did have 2 20a circuits in the kitchen :)

You may be surprised. Most commercial outlets are on 20A breakers but can often be shared and are generally worn out and in poor shape for EV charging. There are also many times 20A outlets that are used on 15a circuits, shared and unshared. Many modern homes also have cheap outlets that are not good for EV charging. I can't tell you how many 20A circuits I see in commercial applications that are unfit for EV charging. Not to mention the many circuits with loose wiring, bad grounds and hidden outlets on the same circuit that are shared. Assuming any 20A outlet is suitable is really a bad call in general unless it's one you had installed professionally at home. Even 12A charging is suspect on many unknown outlets, in the last 15 years I have encountered far more suspect and bad outlets than good ones. Public and commercial outlets are usually high duty and rarely checked.
 
EVDRIVER said:
jjeff said:
erco said:
Are you sure you want to? 99% of 120V outlets are connected to 15A circuit breakers through wiring rated for 15A. 12A is a very reasonable maximum for that common situation. 15A rating is a maximum, not a suggested goal. An EVSE pulling 16A will trip circuit breakers and/or possibly overheat old wiring and outlets. Is that wise or desirable? Seems like leaving it at 12A is the smarter and more versatile play, if recharging "anywhere" is the goal. There's a reason why the upgrader makes you sign a release form for the 120V/16A mod.
While that may be true in very old homes, most modern homes use 20a breakers and wiring. Also basically all commercial outlets are on 20a circuits. Oh and I believe your 99% is off, AFAIK all homes have been required to have 20a outlets in the kitchen area for many years, I know my home(vintage '74 with at one time AU wire :eek: ) had many 15a circuits but did have 2 20a circuits in the kitchen :)

You may be surprised. Most commercial outlets are on 20A breakers but can often be shared and are generally worn out and in poor shape for EV charging. There are also many times 20A outlets that are used on 15a circuits, shared and unshared. Many modern homes also have cheap outlets that are not good for EV charging. I can't tell you how many 20A circuits I see in commercial applications that are unfit for EV charging. Not to mention the many circuits with loose wiring, bad grounds and hidden outlets on the same circuit that are shared. Assuming any 20A outlet is suitable is really a bad call in general unless it's one you had installed professionally at home. Even 12A charging is suspect on many unknown outlets, in the last 15 years I have encountered far more suspect and bad outlets than good ones. Public and commercial outlets are usually high duty and rarely checked.
That we agree :)
I also wouldn't really charge at more than 12a unless I knew the outlet and circuit was rated for more or I had used it in the past without issues. Even at 12a for an outlet I'd never used I'd probably unplug it(of course first the j1772 cable) after 5 or so minutes of charging and feel the prongs for any source of heat. If everything was cool I'd continue charging, if not I'd either dial it down on my EVSE or look for another outlet. Of course there could be heat other places like any splices upstream or even the breaker but I'd probably not have access to check those areas.
I regularly charge at 18a @ 120v at work for several hours at a time, the only thing that gets warm is the breaker itself but not hot and it's never tripped. The outlet is a quality(hospital grade) 20a outlet and all wiring is 12 gauge, oh and it's a dedicated outlet, that I do know.
 
If you have control of the commercial building you can inexpensively change out a worn outlet. It gets messy if the building is rented. In that case all you can do is request a repair that might not happen.

The building the city leased had a landlord but the city was responsible for complete maintenance. That allowed me to install my own L2 EVSE.
 
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