Zencar 32a adjustable portable L2/L1 EVSE

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jjeff

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Jan 13, 2016
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Well my Zencar portable L2/L1 EVSE came yesterday and so far I have to say I really like it. I ordered it directly from Zencar in China and paid via PayPal:
$300 for the EVSE with 3 user selectable currents I specified to 13a(for a 15a circuit) 20a(for short term 20a circuit charging) and 30a(max they'd program it for with the L6-30 end I wanted) note if you chose the 14-50 end they would have programmed it for the max this unit puts out, 32a. I could chose from 6A 8A 10A 13A 16A 20A 32A so if you wanted to charge continuously on a 20a circuit I'd suggest a 16a setting instead of 20a like I did. I also wanted an 8M J1772 cable(~25') 5m is standard and a 30" input cable(I believe this is also longer than the norm but it's what I wanted).
$64 for express shipping from China, they said 8 days but mine took 3(amazing!) via FedEx after some delay getting it built during the Christmas holidays.
$16.40 PayPal Fee......
A total of $380.40 and I'm quite happy. It comes with a 12 month warranty(which I'd have to ship back to China since I am the importer, so here's hoping I never have to use it) and it's built to CE and TUV certification although not UL listed(norm for most all Chinese EVSEs).

Impressions:
Really like the charging cord, very heavy duty and stayed flexible even in 0F temps, the input cable got very stiff as they basically all do and it has a nice molded plug, again I specified L6-30 which is a nice locking 30a hot/hot/ground plug. Input cable is 5.6mm(10 gauge) and J1772 cable is 6mm(slightly thicker than 10 gauge). The actual J1772 plug is very nice and heavy duty and mates very well with my Leafs charge port(not too tight, not too lose) it's white and has a very nice rubber tethered cap very similar to the OEM Leaf EVSE. I have no doubt it will last for years, unlike my Ebusbar EVSE that broke off within days of use.
I like it's top in bottom out cable design, lets it hang from the outlet and the charging cable comes out the bottom and runs to the car. It's also nice and compact and has a LCD display screen that says:
Output set current, Output draw current and Kw, voltage, temp(in C) and total Kwh and time you've been charging(haven't really played with this yet).

This was the first time I've ordered directly from China, unless you count Amazon where some items ship directly from China but I don't really count that as Amazon is who I'm ordering from and everything went quite well. There is a bit of a disconnect with the language barrier but my sales rep was quite easy to work with and made sure I got exactly what I wanted. Her name was Dream and her direct email is:
[email protected]
or you could always start out at [email protected] as I did initially.

Selecting the current is a bit strange, when plugged in but not hooked to car you shake the EVSE quickly several times and it jumps to the next preset output current. In my case it came preset to 30a and while at first I was a bit hesitant about this method of changing the current I feel now it's just fine, avoids having external buttons which could potentially let in water. On it's totally weather proof, probably not submersible but I'd not hesitate(and will be) using it outdoors in possible rain.
Using it on my '13 Leaf I get 27.5a output current which should really be hooked to a 40a circuit for continuous use. If you only had a 30a circuit I guess you could specify maximum output current to be 24a.

While ordering directly from China might not be for everyone, for those more adventurous it can save you some good cash, at $380 I figure a similar US sold EVSE could easily cost $500 or more and probably wouldn't have some of the features this EVSE does, for sure not built exactly the way I wanted like this one was :)

Sellers website:
http://www.e-zencar.net/product/evse-32a/

Note you are ordering direct from the manufacturer so don't expect a retail type sale atmosphere and while I posted the prices I got, yours could vary, nothing is really written, you just tell them what you want and you get a quote. It sounds like you could save the PayPal fee by giving them your CC, it's just it wasn't very evident how you did that and I was willing to pay a little extra for that added insurance of using a company like PayPal. If anyone else goes this route I'd like to hear what you got and how you like it. Note the seller also sells a cheaper 16a non adjustable L1/L2 EVSE for around 1/2 the price, this thread talks about that one as ordered by another MNL member.
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=22692
 
Make sure the unit has GFCI protection. I use a 10K resistor for 12Ma and a 5K resistor for 24 Ma. It should not trip at 12Ma but it should trip at 24Ma. The EVSE is supposed to have a 20Ma GFCI.

To test on 120V connect the resistor to L1 and ground while charging. For 240V either of the L's should work. It is much more simple to put it in charging mode with an emulator. I have found an 820 ohm resistor in series with an 1N4148 will force charging. The bar on the diode goes to ground. Chris Howell sells a proper emulator on his OpenEVSE site. 820 is the wrong value but it works fine. Chris's device is cheap shipped and it tests all possible states including the diode test.

The Lear that came with my B passes. So does the Juicebox and OpenEVSE.

Chris has tested several cheap China devices and he has found that they lack GFCI and the diode protection. Hopefully yours will pass. You can test the diode test by not using the diode.
 
GlennD said:
The EVSE is supposed to have a 20Ma GFCI.
I'm curious, do you have a reference for the 20ma specification? I know the NEC requires a "Personnel Protection System" to mitigate the risk of shock, and specifically avoids calling for a Class A GFCI (5ma trip). Does the UL standard for EVSEs call for a 20ma ground fault trip threshold?

Also BTW, the NEC requires the "Personnel Protection System" of a cord and plug connected EVSE to be within 12 inches of the plug. That is why the input cord on EVSEs is so short; technically an 18 inches input cord is an NEC violation.

Cheers, Wayne
 
I have no official documentation. Chris Howell discusses it on the OpenEVSE site. Most L1 EVSE's will work with a normal 5Ma GFCI outlet. 20Ma seems high to me but that is the spec.

Over the years Chris has put out a lot of good information. Most of it was moved to his site when Google shut down the original site. Just use the links on the top.

Obviously I like OpenEVSE but I have also made two JuiceBox's. OpenEVSE has evolved into a very safe product. It has always had the diode check built in. GFCI was added and Nick Sayer devised a way to test it so you know it is working. The advantage of OpenEVSE is that the code is public. Many have added features to it and the copyright page reflects that. Lincomatic (Sam) has integrated everything into the main code and you can comment out anything that you do not want.
 
I realize a very short input cable is required. That is a feature I ignore since a longer cord makes more sense to me.
 
I am actually shopping around for a combo L1-L2 unit.
http://mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=23202

Liked the WiFi of this juicebox model 40 amp model
https://emotorwerks.com/store-juicebox-ev-charging-stations/202-juicebox-pro-40-smart-40-amp-evse-with-24-foot-cable/category_pathway-23?atid=18

The whole point of the EVSE is **safely** sending Line Voltage AC to the car. As others mention, as I understand it, the GFI would be important to ensure line voltage is being sent to electrify the frame of the car with AC, or to the person plugging it in in very wet conditions, etc.

UL listing isn't critical to me, but safety is, so I would be curious if the unit has the GFI safety trip...
 
JimSouCal said:
I am actually shopping around for a combo L1-L2 unit. ....
UL listing isn't critical to me, but safety is, so I would be curious if the unit has the GFI safety trip...
If it's easy enough I can test mine, I probably have several different values of resistors around but no real modern diodes. I also see no easy way of running a resistor from L1 or L2 to ground(after the EVSE) while the EVSE is charging. I also have no break out type box for the J1772 connector and have little interest in purchasing something new, but if I can test it with what I've got, no problem :)
 
jjeff said:
JimSouCal said:
I am actually shopping around for a combo L1-L2 unit. ....
UL listing isn't critical to me, but safety is, so I would be curious if the unit has the GFI safety trip...
If it's easy enough I can test mine, I probably have several different values of resistors around but no real modern diodes. I also see no easy way of running a resistor from L1 or L2 to ground(after the EVSE) while the EVSE is charging. I also have no break out type box for the J1772 connector and have little interest in purchasing something new, but if I can test it with what I've got, no problem :)
Maybe you can just ask your sales rep and see what they say... They could also add such a description on their web site... I also have done business with Chinese tech companies...mostly successful... Appreciate you sharing your find regardless. That said, you seem like the kind of fellow who'd want to know the safety implementation as well....
 
JimSouCal said:
jjeff said:
JimSouCal said:
I am actually shopping around for a combo L1-L2 unit. ....
UL listing isn't critical to me, but safety is, so I would be curious if the unit has the GFI safety trip...
If it's easy enough I can test mine, I probably have several different values of resistors around but no real modern diodes. I also see no easy way of running a resistor from L1 or L2 to ground(after the EVSE) while the EVSE is charging. I also have no break out type box for the J1772 connector and have little interest in purchasing something new, but if I can test it with what I've got, no problem :)
Maybe you can just ask your sales rep and see what they say... They could also add such a description on their web site... I also have done business with Chinese tech companies...mostly successful... Appreciate you sharing your find regardless. That said, you seem like the kind of fellow who'd want to know the safety implementation as well....
I'll email them tonight and see what they have to say. For reference I'll ask them "Does this EVSE have GFCI and Diode protection?" does that sound about right? I agree, it would be nice to know.....

Interesting, just looking at their website now and I see something I hadn't noticed before, it says:
"All of our products come with CE, TUV and UL certification"
The UL thing is new to me, I don't remember seeing that before, I'll have to look again at the EVSE(which isn't available right now) I sure don't remember seeing a UL sticker on it :? In the past I remember other companies saying their EVSEs are made to UL specs but they haven't actually paid the fee or went through the paperwork to actually be UL listed......interesting.

Update: I see a large CE on the EVSE but no UL listed anywhere.....
 
Per Zencar:
"1. The GFCI can be installed in the EVSE, but many customers feedback it will affect the normal using of the EVSE. So normal GFCI do not have GFCI;

2. There is diode protection in our EVSE;

3. Normal cable is TUV. The UL cables can be customized, but it's only suit for 16A, because 32A UL cable is too thick to fit the box."

So it sounds like GFCI is optional but it's been known to cause charging issues so it's not the norm, unless specified. Not sure if it's the same but I have GFI outlets in our basement and for the most part they are a PIA, occasionally tripping without a cause sometimes just by flipping a light switch. I wouldn't want my EVSE tripping out inadvertently in the middle of the night if I needed the charge to get to work.
Not sure what to make of the UL statement but maybe because this EVSE can go to 32a(although I had mine limited to 30a) UL listing would require the more expensive and bulky 8 gauge wire to be UL listed? Note the included cable is slightly thicker than 10 gauge but is metric, maybe UL doesn't recognize metric sizing and therefore call it 10 gauge, only capable of 30a??
Regardless I'm fine with the EVSE, it's working just great for me but I'd understand others feeling differently and for those there is something like Clipper Creek or other brands almost twice the price and less versatile than this EVSE :)
But it does sound like if GFCI is important to you, the mfg. can add it and it does have diode protection, sounds like adding UL would be more problematic because of the amperage of this EVSE. Of course if you wanted a slightly longer input cord than the norm(I wanted 30") that would also forgo UL listing as it won't allow more than a measly 12".
 
From the front of the J1772 looking into it.


0 L1 0 L2

o o pilot

0 Ground

It sounds like their GFCI implemetion has problems GFCI is a powerful safety device. I know the widely favored Clipper Creek passes.

I place the unit into charge using an emulator. I then test the GFCI with test resistors.

Since the pilot is a 1KHZ square wave most any diode will w2ill work.
 
Interesting... My inclination is to have the GFI on the unit for portable use where unforeseen situations of water and AC could be encountered... My factual knowledge is limited..so might await the comment of another... Thanks again for sharing...

jjeff said:
Per Zencar:
"1. The GFCI can be installed in the EVSE, but many customers feedback it will affect the normal using of the EVSE. So normal GFCI do not have GFCI;

2. There is diode protection in our EVSE;

3. Normal cable is TUV. The UL cables can be customized, but it's only suit for 16A, because 32A UL cable is too thick to fit the box."

So it sounds like GFCI is optional but it's been known to cause charging issues so it's not the norm, unless specified. Not sure if it's the same but I have GFI outlets in our basement and for the most part they are a PIA, occasionally tripping without a cause sometimes just by flipping a light switch. I wouldn't want my EVSE tripping out inadvertently in the middle of the night if I needed the charge to get to work.
Not sure what to make of the UL statement but maybe because this EVSE can go to 32a(although I had mine limited to 30a) UL listing would require the more expensive and bulky 8 gauge wire to be UL listed? Note the included cable is slightly thicker than 10 gauge but is metric, maybe UL doesn't recognize metric sizing and therefore call it 10 gauge, only capable of 30a??
Regardless I'm fine with the EVSE, it's working just great for me but I'd understand others feeling differently and for those there is something like Clipper Creek or other brands almost twice the price and less versatile than this EVSE :)
But it does sound like if GFCI is important to you, the mfg. can add it and it does have diode protection, sounds like adding UL would be more problematic because of the amperage of this EVSE. Of course if you wanted a slightly longer input cord than the norm(I wanted 30") that would also forgo UL listing as it won't allow more than a measly 12".
 
The GFCI is just another layer of protection. The first OpenEVSE units lacked it and they worked fine. It is in the spec and I have junked all of my earlier non GFCI units.
 
jjeff said:
. . . I have GFI outlets in our basement and for the most part they are a PIA, occasionally tripping without a cause sometimes just by flipping a light switch. . . .

Just FYI I have encountered GFCI units that were defective out of the box, and others that have gradually gone bad, such that they gave all these nuisance trips. Replacing the GFCI solved those problems for me.
 
GlennD said:
. . .
I place the unit into charge using an emulator. I then test the GFCI with test resistors.

Since the pilot is a 1KHZ square wave most any diode will w2ill work.

I understand GFCIs and testing with resistors, but what is all this about diodes?
 
tgeliot said:
jjeff said:
. . . I have GFI outlets in our basement and for the most part they are a PIA, occasionally tripping without a cause sometimes just by flipping a light switch. . . .

Just FYI I have encountered GFCI units that were defective out of the box, and others that have gradually gone bad, such that they gave all these nuisance trips. Replacing the GFCI solved those problems for me.
Very true. I have replaced a couple GFCI outlets and things have gotten better, but I still get the occasional nuisance trip :x I have learned though to never put a light switch on a GFCI circuit, my guess is the switch(which controls mostly florescent lighting) might be arching, causing the outlets to trip.
 
jjeff said:
my guess is the switch(which controls mostly florescent lighting) might be arching, causing the outlets to trip.
My understanding is that it is an inductive effect from starting the fluorescent lighting. Newer GFCIs may be more resistant to the issue, or sometimes switching brands helps.

Cheers, Wayne
 
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