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rcedwards

Member
Joined
Nov 8, 2015
Messages
9
Location
Edmonds, WA
Greetings:

I have acquired an EVSEUprade. I think it is a Rev3. The sticker on the back states maximum current for 120V is 16A, typically 12A, and for 240V is 24A, typically 20A.

The most I can program is 120V @ 12A and 240V @20A. Naturally, I'd like to have access to more current.

Any thoughts on what to do?


Thanks.
 
The wire on the J1772 plug is #12. This limits the current to 20A. Going above that violates the NEC spec.
 
GlennD said:
The wire on the J1772 plug is #12. This limits the current to 20A. Going above that violates the NEC spec.

The insulation on mine is rated at 105C, according to 2011 NEC Table 310.15(B)(16) ampacity of 12AWG @90C is 30A , so 24A at 105C over #12 is probably within the NEC spec.
 
I appreciate the ampacity comments. However, they do not address the question, How to program the EVSE for 120V@16A. It simply stops at 12A.

Going above 20A does spark debate. Recall that the 80% of the ampacity is for 3 hours or more. Simply charging for shorter time periods would allow for 100%. As such, I'd like to program for more than 20A for short periods, when time and place may serve.
 
rcedwards said:
Going above 20A does spark debate. Recall that the 80% of the ampacity is for 3 hours or more.

What's the insulation temperature rating? If 90C or above then 24A continuous should be acceptable per the NEC, that is if we are talking about EVSE cables.

Edit: I'd be more concerned about the J-plug, it is rated at 20A on mine, so you shouldn't exceed 20A to be within the spec.
 
I spoke with evseupgrade. Disappointing information.

Apparently the sticker on the unit applies to all units including european models.

The US models are limited to 12A@120V. Quite a shame.

They are also limited to 20A@240V. Understandable.

Looks like an openevse is in my future to get at 16A@120V charging.

Thanks for the comments.
 
rcedwards said:
I spoke with evseupgrade. Disappointing information.

Apparently the sticker on the unit applies to all units including european models.

The US models are limited to 12A@120V. Quite a shame.

They are also limited to 20A@240V. Understandable.

Looks like an openevse is in my future to get at 16A@120V charging.

Thanks for the comments.
If your only concern is 16a@120v I might suggest this EVSE, that I personally own:
http://www.amazon.com/Ebusbar-BEV-H02A10-Charger-Level-Volt/dp/B00TPSP760/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1463169749&sr=1-1&keywords=level+2+ev+charger
It outputs 16a @ either 120v or 240v, note using it at 120v requires either a converter cable or you could cut the dryer plug off and install a standard 120v plug.
I cut the dryer plug off mine and installed a NEMA L6-30p 240v 30a twist lock plug and then use converter plugs to adapt to other plugs. The problem with the installed dryer plug is they don't really make a nice portable socket for it, to convert to the other various plugs. The only socket I could find was a dryer outlet in which case you'd have to use a outlet box to mount the outlet. Not water proof and very bulky. Note only purchase the twist lock plugs/outlets from Amazon, they are 1/3 to 1/4th the price of a B&M like HD, Lowes or Menards. The open EVSE you mentioned is even more flexible than something like the Ebusbar but probably more expensive and not as much as a "finished product" IMO.
 
The OpenEVSE defaults to 12A @120V and 16A @ 240V. The 120V can be set for up to 18A and the 240V to 80A. If you have a programmer you can edit the tables and add any current setting. You can also force the L2 table for more options. The tables are just a convenience and they only affect the pilot so using the L2 table on 120V just means the display says L2.
 
I have an OpenEVSE in my car. If I know that I am on a 20A circuit I can set the EVSE to 16A. Otherwise the default 12A is safe for a 15A circuit.

If you are in a RV park with 30A 120V then you could use 24A assuming proper cabling. My EVSE has #12 cabling so I am limited to 20A assuming a larger circuit. EVSE's go by the NEC 80% rule so a 20A circuit is limited to 16A, etc.
 
The reason EVSE units are set to 12A max on 120V is because if that unit were 16A and plugged into a 15A circuit there could be serious issues. If the user is not 100% aware of the circuits health, wire size, and breaker then this becomes a safety hazard since a 5-15P will fit in a 20A outlet but a 5-20 will not go the other way. Many residential and commercial outlets marked 20A often have 15A breakers or 14G wire. This is very common in homes where outlets are replaced. Also a person either forgetting or not aware of the 16A circuit may use it on a 15A outlet. The risks of 120V charging are high and 16A should only be used on a proper know circuit as these outlets are a high failure point and not designed like other outlets. Plugs types are designed to prevent these issues that people usually forget.
 
Final update:

There are compelling reasons to want 16A@120V. This is what I was seeking. Unfortunately, the Rev3 does not provide it.

Fortunately, I had an old Rev2 hanging around. I just tested it. It always provides 16A for both 120V and 240V. This what I'll put in the trunk of my car.

Yes, I am more than fully aware of the risks. Wire gauge, insulation temperature rating, etc, etc, etc. I'm an engineer with licenses and certifications up the wazoo. This discussion has devolved into misinterpretations of the NEC.
 
rcedwards said:
Final update:

There are compelling reasons to want 16A@120V. This is what I was seeking. Unfortunately, the Rev3 does not provide it.

Fortunately, I had an old Rev2 hanging around. I just tested it. It always provides 16A for both 120V and 240V. This what I'll put in the trunk of my car.

Yes, I am more than fully aware of the risks. Wire gauge, insulation temperature rating, etc, etc, etc. I'm an engineer with licenses and certifications up the wazoo. This discussion has devolved into misinterpretations of the NEC.


Are you using a 2011-12 LEAF upgrade on a later model car? Does your "Rev2" have solid LED indictors and that do not flash? You should never use a 2011-12 upgraded cord on a later model year car if the LEDs on the cable do not blink. Blinking LEDs indicate the newer firmware for all LEAF models.
 
Not that it may matter, but I just spoke with one of the guys at eMotorWerks about this issue. I've ordered one of their JuiceCords because of the portability and flexibility combination. I often have the opportunity to plug into 20-amp 120v outlets and that extra 4 amps would be nice to have:

Hey, quick question: can your EVSEs be set to draw 16 amps on 120 volts?

Our EVSE's (any JuiceBox or JuiceCord or Juice<whatever> model) can be set to any distinct amperage value (1A granularity) between 0 and EVSE limit.

Can you really pull 100% as long as it's for under 3 hours? My E Tron would fill up completely in under 3 hours if drawing 20 amps.
 
pkulak said:
Not that it may matter, but I just spoke with one of the guys at eMotorWerks about this issue. I've ordered one of their JuiceCords because of the portability and flexibility combination. I often have the opportunity to plug into 20-amp 120v outlets and that extra 4 amps would be nice to have:

Hey, quick question: can your EVSEs be set to draw 16 amps on 120 volts?

Our EVSE's (any JuiceBox or JuiceCord or Juice<whatever> model) can be set to any distinct amperage value (1A granularity) between 0 and EVSE limit.

Can you really pull 100% as long as it's for under 3 hours? My E Tron would fill up completely in under 3 hours if drawing 20 amps.
I regularly pull 19a(what I set my EVSE to) for 1-3 hrs and while the breaker does get warm and the plugs also get "warm" nothing really gets hot and I've never had anything trip. Note make sure you have nothing else(at least anything that draws more than 100 watts) on the circuit since your already running at pretty much max. I guess the first few times I'd check the breaker(put the back of your finger against it) and all plugs for heat, warm is OK but I'd be concerned about anything hot.
What Juicebox did you get, as it the new very portable one? I've been eying it up and in hindsight I probably would have gotten it over my much larger Juicebox unit but at this point I just don't need anymore EVSEs :lol:
Note warmth=lost efficiency so if you don't really need the extra amperage your really better off dialing it down but for a quick charge on a outlet/circuit you know is good, I wouldn't be too worried.
Note 19a just happens to be what my '12 old EVSEupgraded EVSE puts out when hooked up to my '13 Leaf with the 6.6kwh charger, 19a @240v and also at 120v, my upgraded '13 only goes up to 20a @240v, 120v is limited to 12a I believe(I never really use it on 120v because of this).
 
jjeff said:
I regularly pull 19a(what I set my EVSE to) for 1-3 hrs and while the breaker does get warm and the plugs also get "warm" nothing really gets hot and I've never had anything trip. Note make sure you have nothing else(at least anything that draws more than 100 watts) on the circuit since your already running at pretty much max. I guess the first few times I'd check the breaker(put the back of your finger against it) and all plugs for heat, warm is OK but I'd be concerned about anything hot.
What Juicebox did you get, as it the new very portable one? I've been eying it up and in hindsight I probably would have gotten it over my much larger Juicebox unit but at this point I just don't need anymore EVSEs :lol:
Note warmth=lost efficiency so if you don't really need the extra amperage your really better off dialing it down but for a quick charge on a outlet/circuit you know is good, I wouldn't be too worried.
Note 19a just happens to be what my '12 old EVSEupgraded EVSE puts out when hooked up to my '13 Leaf with the 6.6kwh charger, 19a @240v and also at 120v, my upgraded '13 only goes up to 20a @240v, 120v is limited to 12a I believe(I never really use it on 120v because of this).

Ah, okay, thanks!

Yeah, it's their new portable one. Just looked too damn cool for me not to buy. I need a portable EVSE (the one that comes with the E Tron is comically large and has about 6 feet of reach).
 
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