How do I mount this?

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kubel

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Feb 13, 2012
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1,609
Location
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I own a brick ranch with a basement. I'm planning on installing this on the back of my house:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-50-Amp-Temporary-RV-Power-Outlet-U054P/100193650" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I'm confident I can get the wiring right, but I'm more concerned about proper installation. What's the proper way to run wire through brick? How do you surface mount something like this to a brick wall?
 
Except don't use 'romex'. Use outdoor-rated cable. It's usually also rated for direct burial, where code allows. Indoor cable will generally work in on-the-wall applications, but it isn't supposed to be used and it isn't the safest, either. Using conduit over the cable is also a good idea.
 
I would consult with that wwhitney guy, but I seem to recall if you're feeding the wire out the back of the box there is supposed to be a nipple that extends into the wall to protect against shearing like if one of the tapcon breaks.
 
Put #8 AWG copper wires into liquid tite conduit and use the liquidtite connectors, Do not use Romex or burial cable, do it like a commercial installation or residential as if you lived in Chicago or NYC - period. These wires will pull twice the load of an air-conditioner at 6.6 kw!! Heavier the wire the less capacitance loss ($$ in your pocket).

Tapcon masonry bolts 1/4" by 1-1/4" length or longer into brick, coupled with 1/4 stainless washers - at least 3 drill points per device: Hammer drill is nice but a regular drill works pretty good as well, just cool off the bit every 5 seconds with ice water.

A. Safety switch
B The "Charger"
C. Cable holder bracket.
D. Conduit hold downs as required by code.

Conclusion: No wires are in the brick once it comes out for the first time - all outside except for the main wires coming from the service in your basement. Mine is the same waterproof conduit as well trough the brick and this you will need a 1/2 chuck hammer drill and large masonry bit to make a hole big enough to feed the conduit.
 
LTLFTcomposite said:
I would consult with that wwhitney guy, but I seem to recall if you're feeding the wire out the back of the box there is supposed to be a nipple that extends into the wall to protect against shearing like if one of the tapcon breaks.
Click to expand...

I haven't heard of that requirement and haven't been required to do it.

There is no problem with running romex through the wall into the receptacles junction box so no need to run conduit/etc unless it's commercial or Chicago/NYC/etc. like rexki mentioned and you can't use romex at all.

Tapcon or some other similar masonry screws/mollies will do the trick.
 
I would have a pull handle shut-off switch within 3 feet or closer to the charger!!, likely code, if not then you are kidding yourselves not putting them in!! AC units require shut-off and they are only the pull half of the average L2 charger. Most 60 amp switch boxes cannot be back-fed on their conductor service feeds, they must exit the two bottom service feeds. To ensure water tightness - Romex cannot do it unless you feed them through water proof conduit?? With Romex at 1.2 -0 - 1.40 per foot, why not get the better serviceable stuff with separate pull-able wires and water resistant conduit and connectors on the outside of the house?

No crazy calking every year around the boxes to keep the water out of your exterior house walls and potentially causing a fire.

I can promise you that the Tesla supercharger stations and any commercial charging station does not have Romex and water leaking catastrophic connections and service boxes - Your House and family deserve the same protection!! The lower price difference is not worth it!! I did mine for $182 myself.

Done and sleeping much better at night.
 
rexki said:
I would have a pull handle shut-off switch within 3 feet or closer to the charger!!, likely code, if not then you are kidding yourselves not putting them in!! AC units require shut-off and they are only the pull half of the average L2 charger. Most 60 amp switch boxes cannot be back-fed on their conductor service feeds, they must exit the two bottom service feeds. To ensure water tightness - Romex cannot do it unless you feed them through water proof conduit?? With Romex at 1.2 -0 - 1.40 per foot, why not get the better serviceable stuff with separate pull-able wires and water resistant conduit and connectors on the outside of the house?

No crazy calking every year around the boxes to keep the water out of your exterior house walls and potentially causing a fire.

I can promise you that the Tesla supercharger stations and any commercial charging station does not have Romex and water leaking catastrophic connections and service boxes - Your House and family deserve the same protection!! The lower price difference is not worth it!! I did mine for $182 myself.

Done and sleeping much better at night.
Click to expand...

Did you click on what the OP is installing? They are installing a receptacle. Code definitely doesn't require a receptacle to have a disconnect. There is one reason to install one though. The plugs can be difficult to plug and unplug and if you were to accidentally get you fingers behind the plug while it was partitially plugged in you coild get shocked. Having a disconnect near by would allow you to flip it before handling the plug but code definitely doesn't require it. Your comparison to AC is not accurate as AC requires a disconnect so that you can disconnect the hardwired equipment to work on it. If the OP was installing a hardwired EVSE then this would be a good comparison.

Please provide a disconnect which can not be back fed? I see no reason why they would have this limit and definitely disagree that most do not allow it. Romex can not be put in any conduit in a wet location even if it's "water proof" conduit. Since the OP is not using conduit romex is fine.

As for caulking. Regardless caulking is needed to keep water out of the house.
 
QueenBee said:
Having a disconnect near by would allow you to flip it before handling the plug but code definitely doesn't require it. Your comparison to AC is not accurate as AC requires a disconnect so that you can disconnect the hardwired equipment to work on it. If the OP was installing a hardwired EVSE then this would be a good comparison.

Please provide a disconnect which can not be back fed? I see no reason why they would have this limit and definitely disagree that most do not allow it. Romex can not be put in any conduit in a wet location even if it's "water proof" conduit. Since the OP is not using conduit romex is fine.

As for caulking. Regardless caulking is needed to keep water out of the house.
Click to expand...

Shutoff / disconnect = Seimans 2 pole 240V non fuseable safety switch - Instructions said only bottom exterior service.
- http://www.amazon.com/SIEMENS-LNF222R-240-Volt-Non-Fused-Outdoor/dp/B006205AB6%3FSubscriptionId%3DAKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q%26tag%3Dduckduckgo-d-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB006205AB6" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I chose this one because of the handle and 10,000 movements of the handle before failure.

Calking of the last two boxes is not required for my installation since there is no wires running through any holes in the house.
 
rexki said:
Shutoff / disconnect = Seimans 2 pole 240V non fuseable safety switch - Instructions said only bottom exterior service.
- http://www.amazon.com/SIEMENS-LNF222R-240-Volt-Non-Fused-Outdoor/dp/B006205AB6%3FSubscriptionId%3DAKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q%26tag%3Dduckduckgo-d-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB006205AB6" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I chose this one because of the handle and 10,000 movements of the handle before failure.

Calking of the last two boxes is not required for my installation since there is no wires running through any holes in the house.
Click to expand...

How'd the wires get back in the house?

That's a very strange bit to add to the manual. I couldn't quickly find any manuals for safety disconnects. Maybe you can post the manual for yours? I found this this one:
http://pdf.wholesalesolar.com/Disconnect-pdf-folder/BIRDHOUSE_MANUAL.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; which says "Knockouts in the chassis support backside or bottom cable entry." and is intended to always be installed outside and page 11 shows an installation of using the rear knockouts.

Virtually every single meter base installed on the exterior of homes is installed using the rear knockouts.

My PV production meter, PV safety disconnect, heat pump disconnect, and heat pump service receptacle were all wired from the rear and the inspected.
 

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