End of Lease Strategies?

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LeftieBiker said:
Dooglas said:
LeftieBiker said:
My guess - and it is only a guess, at the moment - is that the 30kwh pack, even if it does use the Lizard chemistry, suffers from heat-induced degradation more because of the more densely-packed cells.
If this speculation were true, wouldn't the effect be even more pronounced with the 40 kwh pack?

If everything were identical, yes. As I understand it, the 40kwh pack uses a slightly different chemistry. Not more heat-tolerant, but not identical. That means we have to wait and see. I think my BMS has stopped updating SOH as of December, so I get to wait for Spring...

Mine is still dropping albeit very slowly. Are you expecting a large adjustment when the weather warms? FYI; We have several days with temps in high 40's and low 50's. imm, its not cold enough for the BMS to "hibernate" but who knows, right?
 
I've got a '17 leaf S30 that i took on a 2 year lease that will be up in May. Trying to decide if I should buy it out and whether any discount could still be expected.

'17 S Trim level, 30kWh battery, still has 12bars
$11,600 Residual
paid 2k down, $159/mo ($5800 over 2 years)
NMAC Payoff quote is $12,233.36 if i were to take the vehicle now (4 months early from lease termination date).

"turn in fee" will be $395, not sure yet about any "buy out fees" as i haven't talked to a dealer yet.

What do folks think?
 
That's a very good deal, in that both the payment and the residual were low, without a huge down payment. You have to decide how much you like the car, how well it serves your needs, and how well it will serve them with, say, 20% capacity loss.
 
LeftieBiker said:
That's a very good deal, in that both the payment and the residual were low, without a huge down payment. You have to decide how much you like the car, how well it serves your needs, and how well it will serve them with, say, 20% capacity loss.
I agree, and note that 30kwh X 0.80 equals 24kwh, if and when that occurs.
 
Hello, and thanks to everyone who has contributed to this very long thread. I have ready every post and learned a lot from your contributions.

We originally leased a 2012 Leaf S for $2000 down and $220 a month - two years, 24,000 miles. That lease was then extended by NMAC for an additional year with 3 months free. This same Leaf was then returned in excellent shape and any minor scratches were waived under the $500 trade in limit. A great deal you say? I agree, but it gets better.

We then drove home with 2 replacement 2016 S w/QC 24,000 miles, 2 year lease at $99/month each. I have yet to see anyone come close to this figure, essentially free cars.

We are now at the end of the lease, and mid way through a 6 month extension. I am currently in contact with about 10 dealerships to either ground both leases and walkway, or a buy out. No NMAC incentives are to be found as of yet. As affordable as these have been they are essentially disposable electric appliances, obsolete shortly after their delivery and I will part with them as quickly as I would upgrade an iPhone.

All three cars have lived out there lives in warm climates, maintaining full bars SOH. The current pair are each QC'd about three times a month and on 110 to 100% in the remainder. Zero maintenance other than tire rotations.

Residual is approximately $11,000 each. I would consider buying them out if I can find a strong incentive from NMAC. Total cost for each is easy to add up so far: $2000 down, 24+3 months at $99 = $4700. Street value is ballpark $10,000. I need at least $6000 off the balance/residual or I will have to return them.

Additionally, most dealerships have never heard of NMAC, GPO, "a grid", or incentive programs "myleaf XX". You might as well be speaking to a salesperson at Ford they are clueless.


Hope this helps everyone see more clearly how accurate the value of these vehicles really is.

MSRP - 50% (or less)
 
There is no such thing as a 2012 Leaf S. You got either the year or model wrong on that car. As for the 2016 Leafs, you don't negotiate with NMAC anymore - just the dealerships. You have to find a salesperson who is honest enough to share with you the incentive amount that NMAC is giving the dealerships this month (or more likely in February now).
 
LeftieBiker said:
There is no such thing as a 2012 Leaf S. You got either the year or model wrong on that car. As for the 2016 Leafs, you don't negotiate with NMAC anymore - just the dealerships. You have to find a salesperson who is honest enough to share with you the incentive amount that NMAC is giving the dealerships this month (or more likely in February now).

Math says 2013 S at earliest but more likely a 2014 S due to terms of the deal . 2 year lease with extension to 2016 MY definitely not 2012...
 
HornsKeith said:
So is it confirmed that all the gross payoff amount discounts are totally gone? Our 2015 SV lease is up next month, so that'd be lousy timing if so. At that point, it'll be a binary choice of either buying the car for the residual plus the usual fees or just turning it in. Hmmmm....

Keith

It took a while, but I did finally get around to discussing with a local dealer about this. He had to call the helpline to get a clear answer on the GPO discounts, but the answer looks to be that October 2018 was the last month of the discount.

So currently the options are contract residual or nothing (ie, turn it in).

Having said that, I think we're still going to buy out our 2015 SV for $10,760 plus the usual fees. It only has about 21k miles on it and is in fairly good shape, and my wife can likely get at least another year or two of decent use out of it.

Keith
 
Here's the best offer I can find in soCal for the current market. This would be for a 2019 S w/ the quick charge package, and floor mats and bumper protector (whatever)

MSRP $33,125
Lease Cash incentive $10,000
Leaf Loyalty incentive $1,000
24 mos, 12k mis/yr
$3750 due at signing
Mo pmt $246/mo (includes 7.75% sales tax)

Grounding a 2016 S Leaf in the process which will also nullify the disposition fee and minor charges for dings found during the inspection.

Apparently with a new VIN I can apply for another SCE EV rebate of $1000.
 
This deal mentioned above comes to $400 a month for a 150 mile EV. That sounds really high but I have obviously not looked at the market in quite some time. Wouldn't one be better off buying a Tesla Model 3 standard range at slightly more (in the range of $500 per month) and that would be a purchase and not a lease?
 
coupedncal said:
This deal mentioned above comes to $400 a month for a 150 mile EV. That sounds really high but I have obviously not looked at the market in quite some time. Wouldn't one be better off buying a Tesla Model 3 standard range at slightly more (in the range of $500 per month) and that would be a purchase and not a lease?

The Tesla would be a better investment...unless it turns out to be Buggy, in which case you are stuck with it, or with taking a bath on selling it. Leases usually cost more, but are safer. So decide what your highest priority is: financial safety or price.
 
coupedncal said:
This deal mentioned above comes to $400 a month for a 150 mile EV. That sounds really high but I have obviously not looked at the market in quite some time. Wouldn't one be better off buying a Tesla Model 3 standard range at slightly more (in the range of $500 per month) and that would be a purchase and not a lease?
Definitely.
And you get a vastly better charging network.

LEAF is penny wise and pound foolish
 
I'm not sure that buying 2/3 the car for 2/3 the price is such a poor decision. Buying a Model 3 for local driving and a short commute would be both penny and pound foolish.
 
Depending on ones driving needs a 0.75-1.0 vehicle + a 0.25-0.75 vehicle = 2.0 vehicles...sum is often greater than its parts. Find the combo that gets the best value for one’s needs. One size does not fit all. YMMV...
 
LeftieBiker said:
I'm not sure that buying 2/3 the car for 2/3 the price is such a poor decision. Buying a Model 3 for local driving and a short commute would be both penny and pound foolish.

Agreed. No matter what I say or how I say it, people won't agree due to their common or uncommon personal need. The desire for a 300 mile car will not satisfy any but a few. Several years ago, I voted for a 150 mile car and we got it. At the time, it was a split vote. Of the split, its my guess the that the people who wanted more would not be happy with 200 miles (their goal) or even 300 miles.

There is simply a need to replace the existing gasser option with a no compromise EV option. Same convenience, same price but with all the inherent advantages that EVs have. That is a pipe dream. Not in the technological challenge of attaining that dream; its the money it will cost to provide that dream.

TBT; My LEAF is more like a 80% car with a "highly" acceptable 15% option and that 15% option is public charging. I know there are a lot of you that simply don't have public charging or don't want to, or whatever other reason you can conjure but I find it not that unreasonable, getting more reliable and more convenient every day.

I think Nissan's choice of providing multiple battery options is the "only" way to do business. Adding custom charging options should be next. I should be able to program the SOC I want to wake up to the next day without the timer gymnastics I am going thru now.
 
Hoping better lease options are available next month. As others have said, NMAC was getting hosed on prior leases and since capped the minimum residual.

Right now the best I can get the local Nissan dealer down to for a 2019 40kWh Leaf SV is $5k more for down payment + total lease payments compared to what it cost us for our soon to expire 3 year 30kWh 2016 Leaf SV lease.
 
I just went through the acquisition process and did not see any leasing deal that made any sense to me financially. So, just broke my own rule #1 for getting a Leaf... lease it, don’t buy it. Basically decided to take the roughly 1/3 off in incentives & tax credits combined, roll the sales tax basis from my trade-in, and finance the remainder with my local bank. Fortunately my trade was worth a little more than the Federal tax credit so will eventually net out OK after filling next January and likely not too up-side-down in the loan.

As for hedging battery degradation, likely still have a usable car for my needs even if I loose 1/3 capacity. Likely blow though the 100k mile warranty in 5-6 years. If it gets that bad, safe to assume I’m already having ugly discussions with Nissan.

Just add that the Leaf specialist at the dealership has his own lease on a 30KWh Leaf expiring soon. He leaning toward buying his off rather than getting a new lease because the lease deals are not very good.
 
rogersleaf said:
I just went through the acquisition process and did not see any leasing deal that made any sense to me financially. So, just broke my own rule #1 for getting a Leaf... lease it, don’t buy it. Basically decided to take the roughly 1/3 off in incentives & tax credits combined, roll the sales tax basis from my trade-in, and finance the remainder with my local bank. Fortunately my trade was worth a little more than the Federal tax credit so will eventually net out OK after filling next January and likely not too up-side-down in the loan.

As for hedging battery degradation, likely still have a usable car for my needs even if I loose 1/3 capacity. Likely blow though the 100k mile warranty in 5-6 years. If it gets that bad, safe to assume I’m already having ugly discussions with Nissan.

Just add that the Leaf specialist at the dealership has his own lease on a 30KWh Leaf expiring soon. He leaning toward buying his off rather than getting a new lease because the lease deals are not very good.

Its all about timing. Lease deals change monthly for a reason. My current one is definitely more expensive than my 30 kwh lease but then its a $9600 residual which isn't too bad. All in with taxes, etc. etc. etc. I can own it for under $23,000. I find it hard to throw stones at that.
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
rogersleaf said:
I just went through the acquisition process and did not see any leasing deal that made any sense to me financially. So, just broke my own rule #1 for getting a Leaf... lease it, don’t buy it. Basically decided to take the roughly 1/3 off in incentives & tax credits combined, roll the sales tax basis from my trade-in, and finance the remainder with my local bank. Fortunately my trade was worth a little more than the Federal tax credit so will eventually net out OK after filling next January and likely not too up-side-down in the loan.

As for hedging battery degradation, likely still have a usable car for my needs even if I loose 1/3 capacity. Likely blow though the 100k mile warranty in 5-6 years. If it gets that bad, safe to assume I’m already having ugly discussions with Nissan.

Just add that the Leaf specialist at the dealership has his own lease on a 30KWh Leaf expiring soon. He leaning toward buying his off rather than getting a new lease because the lease deals are not very good.

Its all about timing. Lease deals change monthly for a reason. My current one is definitely more expensive than my 30 kwh lease but then its a $9600 residual which isn't too bad. All in with taxes, etc. etc. etc. I can own it for under $23,000. I find it hard to throw stones at that.
That’s about where I wanted to see on a lease. Mine netted out to @ $25,000 before sales tax. That is an SL with tech pkg. and premium paint with a few small add ons. The key factor in Ohio is that must purchase to get the utility company rebate (currently $3500) and another ~$3000 discount from a fleet pricing that is tied to the utility rebate program. Figured this is likely my last chance to take advantage of the $7500 Federal tax credit so why not...
 
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