And by the way, TrueCar is complete horsesh*t

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LTLFTcomposite

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 23, 2010
Messages
4,780
Location
Central FL
Dealers provide low bids to get you to come in then completely disregard them. There's always some reason why the number they gave you doesn't pertain to the car in stock, or it has extra equipment like $500 pinstripes and additional junk fees.
Sure you can leave and go to another dealer but you will find the same thing at the next dealer and the next one and the next one.
 
It's just a car broker service. A car broker makes money by soliciting bids from a large number of dealers for a particular model and then passing that offer on to the buyer - with a "finder's fee" added to the price for the broker. Of course the broker has absolutely no leverage with the dealer to force the dealer to honor the details of the bid.

You will do better by contacting the internet department of all local dealers via email yourself. It's the same concept, only without a broker's fee and with the advantage that the "winning" dealer knows that if they change the price after you arrive you'll go to a different dealer.
 
Good read here:

http://carbuying.jalopnik.com/the-truth-about-truecar-savings-1559397086" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Summary: TrueCar used to be good, they provided wicked deals, but then dealerships pressured them to change their model, and now they are just a marketing wing of the dealership industry. They provide basic useful information such as invoice and MSRP- but they have censored the "dealer cost" information which originally made their site a hit.

Your best bet is to solicit bids via email (from a disposal email address) from multiple dealers, and then have the dealers that return the most relevant stock compete with each other on price. Have them include fees and accessories in their bid.
 
I tried emailing them, the ones who responded quoted prices higher than TrueCar. In the olden days they never wanted to negotiate over the phone, they always want you to come in; that same principle is just extended to emailing, texting, tweeting or whatever.
Frankly I don't see where knowing the "invoice price" is any of my business, the dealer's arrangement with the manufacturer is between them. Furthermore with additional credits and other considerations between dealers and manufacturers going on that number is meaningless anyway. It would be silly to think they aren't making a profit and I don't expect that. What I do expect is if you quote a price, disclose everything and sell it for that price. I guess that's too much to ask, and this will forever be a slimey business.
 
LTLFTcomposite said:
I tried emailing them, the ones who responded quoted prices higher than TrueCar. In the olden days they never wanted to negotiate over the phone, they always want you to come in

So? In the olden days I negotiated by postal mail. This is what I want, this is the best "out the door" (or "one check") price I've been offered. Want my business, beat it. Don't want by business, fine. I never give my phone number, if they find it and call, hang up. Or worse, if I have time to kill. There are several ways to make sure they never want to call back.

Now, same thing with email. There is a dealer out there that wants to make a sale. More to the point, there is a dealer that wants to make a sale more than all the other dealers. How many? I usually mailed about 10 or more.


LTLFTcomposite said:
What I do expect is if you quote a price, disclose everything and sell it for that price. I guess that's too much to ask, and this will forever be a slimey business.

No, not too much to ask. If they don't honor the price when you show up, walk away. (Actually, three times out of four they "found a way" to honor their price, once after I had started the car to leave.) There are always lots of other dealers.

And don't forget social media and word of mouth. Shame them. One way to get people to be honest is to let them know that the whole world is watching them. Or at least the part of the world that reads Facebook, Yelp, Angie's list, email lists you might be on, and people you eat lunch with.

And do tell people when you have a good experience. Magic Nissan in Everett, WA and Campbell Nelson Nissan in Edmonds, for example, both have treated me well. Yes, there are four closer dealers. So what? So sad that they didn't want a sale.
 
The dealer I bought from (Nalley in Atlanta) didn't ignore the Truecar bid per se, but they did tell me the Truecar price INCLUDED the $3500 NMAC financing cash back (which is horse s*** because they didn't mention it until I ASKED, otherwise they probably would have slid that right by me). I ended up paying invoice (not including the cash back), which is OK but I could have done better if I had all the time in world and was willing to walk out, go to various dealers, etc. etc.
 
What's wrong with just taking a day and walking into three dealerships? Just tell them you're taking three bids today and you're going to buy the lowest. They are all so used to getting 100 emails a day from people who never bother to show up, or even reply, that they don't take it seriously.
 
I used email to solicit lease prices. When I walked in after saying I'd be coming, the Internet Sales Manager was gone, and they didn't have the car I wanted. However, they did spend the day looking for one at the price I was quoted, and I ended up getting a very good deal on my SV. The degree of integrity the dealer possesses is a crucial factor.
 
pkulak said:
What's wrong with just taking a day and walking into three dealerships? Just tell them you're taking three bids today and you're going to buy the lowest. They are all so used to getting 100 emails a day from people who never bother to show up, or even reply, that they don't take it seriously.

I'll repeat this as I do every few months. Never *go* to a dealer to negotiate a price. Only once in a blue moon will you get a good price that way. Dealers are experts at negotiation - it's what they do all day long. They know that when you are in their showroom you aren't anywhere else, you've already made a time commitment, and you'd love to just close the deal and drive off. Therefore you've already given away 90% of your negotiating leverage.

First figure out in advance exactly what you want. Trim level, options, model year, etc. If you have flexibility on color or specific options figure out a way to explain that in one or two sentences.

Then compose an email and send it to the internet sales department of every Nissan dealer within 200 miles. If you are in a low population density area with few dealers widen the range of your search (the LEAF can be shipped via truck for less money than you will likely save using this method). Tell them that you are ready to close the deal now and give them both your phone and email. The reason for the latter is that some dealers will respond better with email, some with phone, and you want to maximize the number of bids you get.

The next steps depend upon the kinds of responses you get. Market conditions are always changing. Sometimes a vehicle is in low supply so you get a bunch of bids at or over MSRP. At the other extreme the manufacturer may have huge incentives on the car so dealers are bidding low just to get them off of the lot. Different dealers are dealing with different market conditions at different times. For example, Dealer A may have been told that they have to sell 3 LEAFs by end of month or have their Titan supply cut by 1/3. If you catch that dealer with only 2 LEAFs sold and the last day of the month you may get a great offer- but if in the middle of negotiation someone else buys a LEAF from him he'll suddenly stop moving on price and may even withdraw the offer. Because dealer situations vary the ONLY way you can get a sense of market conditions is to get bids from lots of local dealers. Note: while not a hard-and-fast rule the more desperate dealers will tend to use phone - especially if they really believe you'll close the deal NOW.

As you get bids you can tell dealers "well, the best I have now is below yours at $XXXX". Some dealers will just drop out at that point - they aren't desperate to sell and don't want a bidding war. Others may offer to match or beat the price.

When you get an agreement verbally you are not done. First, ask them to send you a scanned copy of the purchase/lease contract. If you don't have this you are likely going to have them try to add dealer packs for extra money after you arrive. Then be prepared to walk if they change the terms after you are there.

If you have a trade-in you have unnecessarily complicated the deal and will make it much harder to get a good price. Understand that dealers, no matter what they say in mail advertisements, are not desperate for your trade-in and will only pay you wholesale for it. If you think they paid more then they made it back on the selling price of the car you bought/leased. Therefore, if you need to sell and you don't want to go through the time and effort to sell it yourself to a private party, go to a few places that offer to buy wholesale and sell it for the best price (I gather CarMax now does this). Although the best price you can get for a used car is via a sale to a private party the effort involved can be substantial - especially if you have to give test drives, accompany the car to a mechanic for evaluation, and go with the buyer to the DMV or the bank to sign the transfer paperwork. Sometimes selling wholesale is the smartest thing to do.
 
cgaydos said:
First, ask them to send you a scanned copy of the purchase/lease contract. If you don't have this you are likely going to have them try to add dealer packs for extra money after you arrive.

I've never done this.

cgaydos said:
Then be prepared to walk if they change the terms after you are there.

Oh yea, baby, the shoes are on.
 
I have to give some credit to Oneil Nissan in warminster pa.

I don't think they were the most knowledgeable on EV's by any stretch but they really wanted to get me into one (and did)

I was under a heavy cost burden. I needed my total to be $400 a month. since insurance was $90 extra to insure the leaf that meant $310 for the car. I called the insurance company on the spot and got a quote so they knew I was serious. meet my price and I am sold.

we got to $350 (which I later got down to $301 refinancing a month later once I got my dad's judgments and crap off my credit!!)

2012 SV 4802 miles 88.9% battery $17,000 $18k with tax.

and it was not black of silver. I told them no deal if its black or silver (red) :)

I had never purchased a new car before so it was a rather surreal experience to walk out of a dealership with $18,000 in new car without handing over a single dollar. Very strange.

fixed the credit and a month later refinanced via the CU at 4% $301 a month. nice. Free car. 100% free. over $200 LESS than I was spending in gasoline.

E usage is so small I see no "difference" in the electric bill over "noise" (I get a lot of charging at my two jobs neither of which charges me for the E)

4 months. 8000 miles :)
 
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