New "Do-it-yourself" installation EVSE from Aerovironment

[dhanson865]

Official name is "EVSE-RS Plug-in"

http://evsolutions.avinc.com/products/at_home/plug-in_charging_station" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

or

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AHG8XVA/ref=as_li_tf_il?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00AHG8XVA&linkCode=as2&tag=evsol-20" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


Either way you just get a 6-50 wall plug in your house and you can plug the new EVSE in without modification.


- 208VAC to 240VAC
- 30A output maximum current
- 60/50Hz
- 10 pounds excluding cable
- 25' cable length
- Plug cord is 12 inches in length
- Quickly removable to take to a second home (or other frequently visited place) with a dedicated 240 Volt socket
- Comes with "Do-it-yourself" installation kit including a mounting bracket and easy-mount wall template

SPECIFICATIONS
Model EVSE-RS Plug-in
Connector SAE J1772 compliant
Car Charging Station communication protocol SAE J1772 compliant
Dimensions 12” H x 12” W x 8” D approximately
Voltage either 240 VAC split phase and neutral grounded or 208 VAC 2 phases and neutral grounded
Current output power 30 Amp Maximum
Circuit breaker rating 40 Amp. Do NOT use a Class A circuit breaker with the EVSE-RS Plug-in Charging Station
Frequency 50Hz / 60Hz
Power draw at idle Less than 5 Watts
Weight with 25 ft. cable 19.2 lbs (8.71Kg)
Temperature-Operating -22°F to +122°F (-30°C to +50°C)
Temperature-Storing & Transporting -40°F to 140°F (-40°C to +60°C)
Regulatory compliance UL and cUL listed and CSA compliant. U.S. installs, FCC part 15, subpart B. Canadian installs
must comply with the Electric Code for Canada. FCC part 15, subpart B


It isn't any cheaper than the hard wired version but if you save money on the installation it might be a cheaper way to go for some situations.

 

[EVDRIVER]

Official name is "EVSE-RS Plug-in"

http://evsolutions.avinc.com/products/at_home/plug-in_charging_station" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

or

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AHG8XVA/ref=as_li_tf_il?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00AHG8XVA&linkCode=as2&tag=evsol-20" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


Either way you just get a 6-50 wall plug in your house and you can plug the new EVSE in without modification.


- 208VAC to 240VAC
- 30A output maximum current
- 60/50Hz
- 10 pounds excluding cable
- 25' cable length
- Plug cord is 12 inches in length
- Quickly removable to take to a second home (or other frequently visited place) with a dedicated 240 Volt socket
- Comes with "Do-it-yourself" installation kit including a mounting bracket and easy-mount wall template

SPECIFICATIONS
Model EVSE-RS Plug-in
Connector SAE J1772 compliant
Car Charging Station communication protocol SAE J1772 compliant
Dimensions 12” H x 12” W x 8” D approximately
Voltage either 240 VAC split phase and neutral grounded or 208 VAC 2 phases and neutral grounded
Current output power 30 Amp Maximum
Circuit breaker rating 40 Amp. Do NOT use a Class A circuit breaker with the EVSE-RS Plug-in Charging Station
Frequency 50Hz / 60Hz
Power draw at idle Less than 5 Watts
Weight with 25 ft. cable 19.2 lbs (8.71Kg)
Temperature-Operating -22°F to +122°F (-30°C to +50°C)
Temperature-Storing & Transporting -40°F to 140°F (-40°C to +60°C)
Regulatory compliance UL and cUL listed and CSA compliant. U.S. installs, FCC part 15, subpart B. Canadian installs
must comply with the Electric Code for Canada. FCC part 15, subpart B


It isn't any cheaper than the hard wired version but if you save money on the installation it might be a cheaper way to go for some situations.

How does a plug on the end save money? If you need to install an outlet then you have the additional cost of the outlet. With the other unit the conduit simply goes in to the EVSE or a cable into a junction box. It does not cost less it actually would cost slightly more, it would cost less without the need for a plug and outlet. On the other hand the redesigned unit is now made in China so it is costing AV less, not the purchaser and it does not save time on installation it adds more components.

 

[LakeLeaf]

How does a plug on the end save money? If you need to install an outlet then you have the additional cost of the outlet. With the other unit the conduit simply goes in to the EVSE or a cable into a junction box. It does not cost less it actually would cost slightly more, it would cost less without the need for a plug and outlet. On the other hand the redesigned unit is now made in China so it is costing AV less, not the purchaser and it does not save time on installation it adds more components.

With this, it's a lot easier to separate the installation from the installer. When bundled together, as was done originally, there was often pretty outrageous installation costs. Now it looks easier to have a local electrician put in an outlet - which they should require no extra knowledge to do - and just plug the unit in. And of course easier to install outlets at the vacation house too and take it with you.

 

[MikeD]

Some thoughts [I'm not an electrician -- but I care about safety]:

1) In User Guide: "Circuit breaker rating 40 Amp. Do NOT use a Class A circuit breaker [GFCI type that trips at ~5ma leakage] with the EVSE-RS Plug-in Charging Station."

I think they say this because some kind of interference would result or maybe it would create nuisance trips(?), but it would be nice to have been able to protect the outlet user with a 2-pole 40 amp GFCI (see (4) below).

2) In Technical Data Sheet: "EVSE-RS PI and other plug-in EV charging stations are not currently approved [MAY mean change is being considered] by UL for outdoor charging [I take this to mean only the receptacle/plug/station is to be mounted indoors, and not necessarily the charging cable]".

I would think that at a minimum any change in the future would require a) the outdoor outlet itself is GFCI protected, b) the plug/receptacle is watertight, c) the station is watertight, d) use of an extension cord is prohibited (and made difficult to casually use).

3) In User Guide: "Use Charging Station ONLY with a dedicated [meaning nothing else on circuit, I think] Receptacle. DO NOT tamper with Charging Station power cord [like changing plug type to 10-30 or 14-30 dryer type]. DO NOT use an extension cord."

I think the 6-50 plug was selected deliberately so that one could not use the usual dryer outlet or a commonly available extension cord with it. The 6-50 plug/receptacle should also be more robust than 30 amp ones. Interestingly, my Blink EVSE came with an optional 6-50 plug (not used), but unlike the AeroVironment it is not designed to be easily movable.

4) In User Guide: "In order to avoid shock hazard from exposed power conductors, turn off the circuit breaker for the dedicated 6-50 power outlet at the power distribution panel before plugging or un-plugging the charging dock."

If there is the possibility that you may be moving your EVSE occasionally in the future, it might be more convenient and safer to install a disconnect switch near the outlet. Besides being closer to the station, you won't be tempted to take a riskier shortcut and not turn off the circuit breaker. Also when the EVSE is not plugged in, the disconnected switch (I think they can be made child-resistant) ensures the 240v outlet is not electrically hot. Disconnect switches are also designed to be used much more often than are circuit breakers.

In summation, you want to make sure you are using a safe charging circuit, especially so if that circuit is not directly wired to your EVSE.

 

[dhanson865]

Official name is "EVSE-RS Plug-in"


It isn't any cheaper than the hard wired version but if you save money on the installation it might be a cheaper way to go for some situations.

How does a plug on the end save money? If you need to install an outlet then you have the additional cost of the outlet. With the other unit the conduit simply goes in to the EVSE or a cable into a junction box. It does not cost less it actually would cost slightly more, it would cost less without the need for a plug and outlet. On the other hand the redesigned unit is now made in China so it is costing AV less, not the purchaser and it does not save time on installation it adds more components.

How is it more expensive for a dealer tech to install an air filter than for you to do it yourself? They charge you more.

The same general work has to be done either way but people have an attitude of wanting to charge you more for the same work depending on who you ask to do it, how you ask them to do it, and why you ask them to do it.

Scenario 1:

I need a hardwired EVSE so I call an electrician and say install this thing on the wall. The electrician how knows

1. I can't do the work myself so he or someone like him has power over me
2. The use of the plug as in how important it is to me (it isn't just so I can plug in my christmas lights though the high amp higher volt different plug curcuit is a dead give away). It pegs it specifically to an electric car which many consider to be an expesive luxury item not just some cheapo clothes dryer that might cost 1/10th the cost of the car


Secneario 2:

I need a wall jack and/or new curcuit for a plug in EVSE so I call an electrician and say give me a plug of this type on a curcuit of that type. The electrician now knows

1. I have specific requests that he can put in writing with no ambiguity so his liability is less. He'll assume that I know more about what I'm doing and give me a straight up cost without jacking me around or he'll doubt my knowledge and ask more questions maybe revealing his nature and allowing me to avoid using him if need be.
2. If I choose I don't have to tell him what the plug will be used for and his lack of information reduces his perceived leverage over me in negotiating price for his services.

You can say that a smart electrician will have a good idea whats up the second he shows up and may even figure it out on the phone but I'd say the seperation of the device from the sole purpose of the curcuit gives me and the average joe more confidence to speak to the electrician on a more even footing.

Going one step further if down the road you get another EV and want to use another EVSE you no longer have to call the electrician to have the hardwired EVSE1 removed and get the hardwired EVSE2 installed. You just unplug EVSE1 and plug in EVSE2. It means you pay once for the curcuit/outlet and don't pay every time you switch devices. Presumably the wiring in the wall and the curcuit breaker will well outlive the first EVSE you install. And Presumably your wiring / breaker are sufficient for that replacement EVSE that you get X years down the road.

It also means if you sell your house but not your car you can move the EVSE from your old home to your new home without leaving it as a permanent fixture that the new owner may not want or need. It becomes a more flexible asset that can be sold or retained at will without calling an electrician to remove it and reinstall it should you choose to sell it or transfer it to a new location.

In short to me the plug on the end of the cord means freedom and control of down the road costs and I assume the short term cost will be less/even/slightly higher but not greatly different barring someone trying to take advantage of you.

 

[smkettner]

AV wanted ~1,100 labor to screw mine to the wall and "plug it in" +permit, +evse

Already permitted 40a circuit was installed by home builder. Self install (Schneider) saved a bunch.

 

[dhanson865]

Make no mistake I'm not implying that all electricians are out to take advantage of their customers but consider why they might want to charge more for installing a hardwired EVSE vs an outlet

A. Taking advantage of the situation as mentioned above.

B. Maybe just padding the bill as a means of insurance if the customer doesn't explain their needs or situation clearly. Some people don't react well to price changes during a job so some will quote with some padding to make it less likely to have to adjust the bill. Give them specific needs and they might lower the padding as they have more confidence in the accuracy of the job request.

C. Maybe padding the bill as a means of insurance vs time and effort to drag the correct needs out of you. If you are a bad customer and don't have a good idea what you need done and are looking at multiple hard wired EVSEs the work needed could vary. With plugged in EVSEs you could presume even a bad customer is more likely to read the required curcuit/outlet specs off especially if a couple of common EVSEs had the same curcuit/outlet requirements. You might call me optimistic on that one but I'm also thinking of local codes that might guide the electrician if someone asks for a specific wall plug type vs the what may be vagaries of varying hardwired EVSEs. In short I think it takes some of the thinking out of the process for the electrician and makes their job easier even if it adds the cost of an outlet.

D. They may be asked to do the mounting of the EVSE to the wall or might assume you wanted them to do that part of the work and include that labor in the quote. If you can do the non electrical work yourself you reduce the charge labor portion. In some locations a hardwired device might have to be installed by a licenced electrician but a plugged in device might not have any requirements on who hangs it or plugs it in. Having the option to do this yourself can reduce the cost of the overall job and I would think the majorty of customers would consider that option even even they don't always take advantage of the opportunity.

I'm sure there are other factors I haven't remembered to discuss here. I'm not saying it will allways be cheaper or always be more expesive either way. I'm saying the fact that it is different allows for the price to be different. Due to markup/padding the difference in cost could be overshadowed, absorbed, or passed on.

 

[TonyWilliams]

This would be nice to take with you on trips to RV parks. Only 10 pounds, and a full 30 amps for those (w/ optional 6.6kW) 2013 LEAFs, and even Rav4, Tesla, etc, that use over 30 amps.

I would mount a NEMA 14-50 in my garage, and put a 14-50 plug on the cord. That's what RV parks take. or build a 6-50 to 14-50. Even Tesla "recommend(s) working with our partner SolarCity or a licensed electrician to install your High Power Wall Connector or NEMA 14-50 outlet before your Model S arrives."

It comes with a AC Plug NEMA 6-50.

 

[EVDRIVER]

AV wanted ~1,100 labor to screw mine to the wall and "plug it in" +permit, +evse

Already permitted 40a circuit was installed by home builder. Self install (Schneider) saved a bunch.

You could have bought an AV unit and done the same and there would not be $1,000 labor. If anyone hires a reputable electrician (not an EV Project person) and requests an outlet VS hard wiring, the only time/cost difference is screwing the unit on the wall. If you can mount it, which you must do with an outlet then an electrician can do this at the same or lower cost because the labor is THE SAME. All of this fear mongering over cost and savings is based on artificial inflated prices quoted by EV project gougers. The marketing of a plug-in wall mounted EVSE is just that, marketing. Cutting off the cord does not suddenly make it far more expensive to install unless one has limited experience with household electricity and is easily convinced by cheap marketing. I can't believe we have a thread discussing a plug on the end of a wire vs no plug and the artificial disparities of cost. These threads crack me up.

I also laugh at those that mount AV units to boards and call them "portable". There is a reason portable units are not only smaller but also designed to withstand shock, etc. One is for stationary use and one is not, however a portable unit will not be compromised when stationary.

 

[smkettner]

I may have bought the AV unit separate except AV would not apply the $100 fee paid to get an estimate toward just the evse. Only good toward the full install.
Still have a bad taste from the whole thing. AV can make good anytime and refund the $100 sucker fee.

 

[EVDRIVER]

I may have bought the AV unit separate except AV would not apply the $100 fee paid to get an estimate toward just the evse. Only good toward the full install.
Still have a bad taste from the whole thing. AV can make good anytime and refund the $100 sucker fee.

Got my $100 back as soon as they did not lower the bid after seeing I pre-wired.

 

[EVDRIVER]

If you can screw an AV unit to the wall you can stuff a bare wire in a junction box and twist some wire nuts and put on the cover plate. It is the same as an outlet box. Compete marketing nonsense and it works! Anyone that can hang one of those AV units on the wall PROPERLY could also put a plug end on a bare cord of ANY EVSE and then what do you know, "do it yourself EVSE" :lol: I hear there is a horn mod that is "do it yourself" because the wires all have plugs on them. :roll: I hope the AV unit comes with a level and a self-adhesive backing, perhaps one of those kind that releases off sheetrock when done. I bet this thread goes on and on and on like so many other silly topics here.

 

[davewill]

One nice thing about having a plug is that it doubles as a cutoff, which some jurisdictions require to be nearby the EVSE.

 

[SalisburySam]

I want to move my Nissan contractor-installed AeroVironment hard-wired L2 charging station from my current home to a new home. I do have a 40-amp cut-off circuit breaker a couple of feet from the unit, as well as another cut-off breaker outside for this dedicated circuit so I think I can remove the AV without frying it or me.

In the new home, I will have a licensed electrician install the line and breakers. Are there any precautions or suggestions anyone may have to removing the unit itself and reinstalling it?

All ideas welcome, thanks!

 

[davewill]

...Are there any precautions or suggestions anyone may have to removing the unit itself and reinstalling it? ...

You will want to turn off the breaker in the panel, not just the cutoffs. Unless your AV plugs in, you will want to terminate the wiring inside a box. Use morettes (those twisty things you use to connect wires) to cap off the ends of the wire, but you can't just leave the capped wires hanging on the wall. Post a picture and we can be more specific.

If your AV plugs in, you can just unplug it and be done.

 

[SalisburySam]

Post a picture and we can be more specific.

If your AV plugs in, you can just unplug it and be done.

Thanks Dave. Unfortunately, the AV unit is hardwired, not a plug-in. Here are two pics, inside the garage, and outside by the meter:

 

[davewill]

... Unfortunately, the AV unit is hardwired, not a plug-in. Here are two pics, inside the garage, and outside by the meter:

OK, the real electricians around here may have a better solution, but I would do the following (all on the inside of the garage):

• 1. Turn off the breaker for this circuit in the service panel.
  2. Dismount the AV unit and disconnect the wires from the AV.
  3. Disconnect and remove the wires that went to the AV from the switch inside the cutoff box.
  4. Remove the short piece of conduit that goes back to the cutoff switch.
  5. Put a proper plug (available at the hardware store) into the hole left by the removed conduit.

That should do it. If anyone wants to use the circuit in the future, all they have to do is run conduit and wire from the cutoff switch to whatever sort of equipment or outlet they want.

 

[SalisburySam]

Thanks Dave, I would not have thought about the wires or conduit from the cutoff box to the AV unit. My original thought was to replace the AV unit with a junction box for the loose wires. I like your approach much better, and it affords greater convenience for the next person's use.