Code question with adding a pigtail to hardwired EVSE

[Deleted member 12643]

hi folks,

having an electrician install a new 240 Volt receptacle and 40A breaker in my garage for the EVSE, and had a question about the Bosch Power Max EL-51253 (although this could apply to any EVSE that doesn't come prewired with a plug).

The Bosch Power Max specifies hard wiring it, but as far as NEC code is concerned, is wiring a 40A range cord to it so that I can plug/unplug the EVSE be considered ok? A 14-50 dryer cord like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LYLP7I" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; or this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YURAW" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I am pulling permits for the 240 volt receptacle installation so I want to make sure that what I plan on doing is going to pass inspection.

thanks!

 

[Bob]

DISCLAIMER: I am not an electrician, so this is just casual observations, not professional guidance. Your electrician should be able to give you better advice. Also, your town/city will have a building or electrical inspector that is trained in this subject and paid by your taxes to give you this advice.

But with that disclaimer:

The National Electrical Code is huge and expensive. NEC Article 625 covers EV Charging Equipment. I found this part of the NEC rev 2008 on the web free by using google and searching for "National Electric Code Article 625". The first link from google worked for me and was a scan of that part of the NEC, made public by the Puget Sound Regional Council. From this article, Paragraph 625.13 says:

"Electric vehicle supply equipment rated at 125 volts, single phase, 15 or 20 amperes or part of a system...shall be permitted to be cord-and-plug-connected. All other electric vehicle supply equipment shall be permanently connected and fastened in place."

BUT

There is also an article on the web describing an upcoming 2014 update to article 625, courtesy of phev.ucdavis.edu I found it with the same search. It says:

"Electric vehicle supply equipment that is rated 250 volts maximum and complies with all of the following:
(1) It is intended for connection to a non-locking, 2-pole, 3-wire and 3 pole, 4-wire grounding type, receptacle outlet rated no more than 50 amperes."

So it seems that outlets are now allowed or will be allowed when revision 2014 comes out. I don't know if 2014 is out yet.

Again, please check with an electrician and/or building inspector for a professional review. Be safe. And don't sue me.

Bob

hi folks,

having an electrician install a new 240 Volt receptacle and 40A breaker in my garage for the EVSE, and had a question about the Bosch Power Max EL-51253 (although this could apply to any EVSE that doesn't come prewired with a plug).

The Bosch Power Max specifies hard wiring it, but as far as NEC code is concerned, is wiring a 40A range cord to it so that I can plug/unplug the EVSE be considered ok? A 14-50 dryer cord like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LYLP7I" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; or this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YURAW" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I am pulling permits for the 240 volt receptacle installation so I want to make sure that what I plan on doing is going to pass inspection.

thanks!

 

[wwhitney]

The Bosch Power Max specifies hard wiring it, but as far as NEC code is concerned, is wiring a 40A range cord to it so that I can plug/unplug the EVSE be considered ok?

The NEC says you should follows the equipment instructions (article 110, maybe 110.26?), so if the Bosch calls for hardwiring, you should hard wire it. That said, there isn't really any electrical problem with using a cord and plug. Since the EVSE doesn't require a neutral, the proper cord and plug is the NEMA 6-50. Do not install a 14-50 receptacle without a neutral conductor, other equipment plugged into it could be damaged by the missing neutral.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[smkettner]

Why have a plug/outlet? I would prefer a continuous wire from breaker to EVSE whenever possible.

 

[davewill]

Why have a plug/outlet? I would prefer a continuous wire from breaker to EVSE whenever possible.

It creates a local cutoff. Without a plug, most installs require a dedicated local cutoff switch...so you won't have a continuous wire from the breaker anyway. Also, if you have a portable EVSE, it can be plugged into the outlet as a backup in the case of a failure of the permanent one, or in other situations, like the time my garage was blocked by landscape construction materials and I had to use my EVSE Upgrade and an extension cord to charge for a week.

It also makes install/replacement of the EVSE a DIY job instead of necessarily needing an electrician. The electrician installs the outlet, and the homeowner then hangs the EVSE on the wall and plugs it in. That said, my EVSE came with a plug, and other EVSEs (like the Levitons) can be ordered with them, and I'd prefer to go with a plug from the factory. But there's nothing dangerous about adding one.

 

[essaunders]

I'm considering taking my hardwired Schneider and plutting a plug on it. My reasoning is I'd like a little flexibility on where the EVSE is located. I'd put an outlet where my EVSE is now plus a new one on the other corner of my garage. I could, once or twice a year, move my EVSE if needed. My circuit is a 40A so I'd likely put in a 6-50 or 14-50, dependent on neutral.

I have a whole second series of issues related to how to implement my two outlet plan (switched vs parallell) plus my desire to add a real meter, but that's a story for later. (unless anyone has a 40Amp 3 position switch they can suggest...)

 

[wwhitney]

It creates a local cutoff. Without a plug, most installs require a dedicated local cutoff switch...so you won't have a continuous wire from the breaker anyway.

Per 2011 NEC 625.23, a local disconnecting means is only required for an EVSE over 60 amps or over 150V to ground. 240V residential circuits are 120V to ground, so that part doesn't apply.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[Deleted member 12643]

thanks Bob. I found the same through google and read through the 2008 section 625 and the changes in 2014. I guess I need to confirm with my city inspector (Fremont, CA) what year NEC they follow and just ask him straight up if adding a pigtail is ok.

DISCLAIMER: I am not an electrician, so this is just casual observations, not professional guidance. Your electrician should be able to give you better advice. Also, your town/city will have a building or electrical inspector that is trained in this subject and paid by your taxes to give you this advice.

But with that disclaimer:

The National Electrical Code is huge and expensive. NEC Article 625 covers EV Charging Equipment. I found this part of the NEC rev 2008 on the web free by using google and searching for "National Electric Code Article 625". The first link from google worked for me and was a scan of that part of the NEC, made public by the Puget Sound Regional Council. From this article, Paragraph 625.13 says:

"Electric vehicle supply equipment rated at 125 volts, single phase, 15 or 20 amperes or part of a system...shall be permitted to be cord-and-plug-connected. All other electric vehicle supply equipment shall be permanently connected and fastened in place."

BUT

There is also an article on the web describing an upcoming 2014 update to article 625, courtesy of phev.ucdavis.edu I found it with the same search. It says:

"Electric vehicle supply equipment that is rated 250 volts maximum and complies with all of the following:
(1) It is intended for connection to a non-locking, 2-pole, 3-wire and 3 pole, 4-wire grounding type, receptacle outlet rated no more than 50 amperes."

So it seems that outlets are now allowed or will be allowed when revision 2014 comes out. I don't know if 2014 is out yet.

Again, please check with an electrician and/or building inspector for a professional review. Be safe. And don't sue me.

Bob

 

[Deleted member 12643]

Since the EVSE doesn't require a neutral, the proper cord and plug is the NEMA 6-50. Do not install a 14-50 receptacle without a neutral conductor, other equipment plugged into it could be damaged by the missing neutral.

Cheers, Wayne

oh, thanks. i was thinking 14-50 probably because I was also considering the Clipper Creek which comes with a 14-50 plug.

Is there a benefit of going with 14-50 vs 6-50 receptacle as far as future EVSE flexibility (say if I get a Tesla)? I'd rather have the electrician do it once and not have them come out again in the future if possible.

 

[mikeEmike]

Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe if you add a plug to an EVSE that is supposed to be hard-wired, it will no longer be UL compliant, assuming it was to begin with.

 

[Deleted member 12643]

Why have a plug/outlet? I would prefer a continuous wire from breaker to EVSE whenever possible.

i wanted the electrician to just provide a plug for more flexibility, eg. if EVSE goes bad and I need to send it in for service or replace it. Also, when we sell this home (not anytime soon, but likely in a few years), it'll be cleaner to just have a receptacle rather than need to leave some exposed wiring (bad) for the next homeowner.

Worse come to worse I can just have it hardwired and if i do need to service/replace it I can just power down the circuit and unwired the EVSE, but having a plug would make it simpler. I probably will never unplug the EVSE except in the cases I outlined above

 

[LTLFTcomposite]

...if EVSE goes bad and I need to send it in for service or replace it. Also, when we sell this home (not anytime soon, but likely in a few years), it'll be cleaner to just have a receptacle rather than need to leave some exposed wiring (bad) for the next homeowner.

Worse come to worse I can just have it hardwired and if i do need to service/replace it I can just power down the circuit and unwired the EVSE, but having a plug would make it simpler. I probably will never unplug the EVSE except in the cases I outlined above

If you need to remove the EVSE for service it should be a small matter to turn off the circuit breaker, loosen the screws on the lugs where the wires connect and unhook them. Just to be safe throw a couple wire nuts on and put a piece of tape over the breaker. If you move and take the EVSE with you, put a utility box in place of the EVSE and cap off the wires with wire nuts inside the box. Materials cost should be about a buck. This question keeps coming up and it's personal preference but fwiw that's how I'd do it.

 

[smkettner]

Oh I understand. My home came with an outlet. First I had a 3' cord for the LEAF. Now with RAV4-EV I have a 32' cord so the evse can be mounted to the rear of the vehicle.

If I was pulling wire I would have initially hardwired it. Second phase I would have slapped an outlet on and did the plug-in. But once the outlet is on the wire is too short to ever hard wire.

Just hate for you to put an outlet on and the wire is cut.... then the city wants it hard wired and you have a splice.

 

[Bob]

Today, I was able to view the released version of NEC 2014 at my local library. As expected, it now allows plugs and sockets for 240V EVSE (paragraph 625.42B).

Bob

 

[QueenBee]

Why have a plug/outlet? I would prefer a continuous wire from breaker to EVSE whenever possible.

i wanted the electrician to just provide a plug for more flexibility, eg. if EVSE goes bad and I need to send it in for service or replace it. Also, when we sell this home (not anytime soon, but likely in a few years), it'll be cleaner to just have a receptacle rather than need to leave some exposed wiring (bad) for the next homeowner.

Worse come to worse I can just have it hardwired and if i do need to service/replace it I can just power down the circuit and unwired the EVSE, but having a plug would make it simpler. I probably will never unplug the EVSE except in the cases I outlined above

I would recommend going that route. To me the EVSE is more of an appliance than a hardwired part of the house. Until we get EVSEs that are higher amperage than our 6-50 receptacles I'd prefer to have a receptacle. The odds that an inspector is going to have any problem with a professional install hardwired or not is basically zero.