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I installed a 40 kWh pack (with built-in heaters) in a 2011 Leaf that had no idea what "battery heaters" were and have no problem; I simply ignored/didn't use the heater port on the (new) pack. So it doesn't seem like the pack itself cares whether it has (working) heater elements or not.

For the record, that is a much lower cost of acquisition than I experienced; in fact, that has to be lowest cost for a 40kWh pack I've ever seen/heard, so you got a great deal. My own experience was in the $12k+ range for a salvaged Leaf with a 40kWh pack (and that was almost 3 years ago now).

Very misleading; not even all locksmiths have a programming tool. Please see post from @henrydehoja : "make sure that the price quote you are provided includes both the key fob & fob programming." Total cost >>$100

You are discovering the joys of low maintenance EVs! Very little to keep track of beyond brakes, (cabin) air filters and (of course) tires. At some point, you might want to consider changing the gear box fluid (plenty of threads about it on the forum), but with your "easy" driving habits, you...

I have used a 4Gig drive on my 2011...and I'm pretty sure the 2011/2012 model years share the same USB chip sets. FWIW, I've noticed that older peripherals (and 10 years old is an eternity in the computer world) can't read drives >64Gig.

Based on those LeafSpy readings it looks like you got a new 24kWh pack (only a couple AHr off the theoretical max). It should be a bit more balanced at that high SOC, but I don't think there's anything to worry about at this time. However, I would run it down to very low SOC (say 10%) just one...

Could be a bad 12v battery; have it load-tested. You should never drain the traction pack in an off/idle state; are you sure you didn't damage any of the 12v wiring/sensors when replacing?

I wouldn't buy any used Leaf (or battery pack) without putting LeafSpy Pro on it; you can post a couple of screen shots here, but you need to look at AHrs and cell voltage spreads (at low SOC). Having said that, I think Gen1 Leafs make good commuter cars (I've had mine over 10 years now).

Did you see the name on the EVSE in the pic he posted? I've never even heard of it! I also avoid batteries made in China (even my 12v Lithium is not China-based), and there is a difference between "made in China" and "made in Taiwan" (or other parts of Asia).

I get the sarcasm, but I wouldn't mess with any Chinese made EVSE...because most are designed/built like crap. You get what you pay for.

Not to state the obvious, but: have you gone back to wherever/whoever did the recall and ask them?

I checked that part number against the 40kW pack that I put in my car...and only the first few digits match. Doesn't mean it won't work, but it's definitely a "new" part number. If someone can get their hands on one of these and verify it's the real deal, it could be a game-changer for all...

...but not one with a 40kWh (or larger) battery pack. Not saying that used Leaf's are an option (and sometimes a great deal), but there are many paths to upgrading (like I have).

You are wrong...but then others have pointed that out. My concern is giving incorrect advice about something that could result in injury to the person asking the question...let alone the additional confusion it generates in the thread.

If you can't getting any LeafSpy readings from the new battery, then there is something wrong with that pack (wiring/controller/bad modules/etc). If you can't get any proof that it was pulled from a working car before you got it, then any sort of troubleshooting would involve opening the battery...

Or just get an outlet tester (for ~$10) which will tell you all sorts of things about your plugs/wiring (including GND faults).

I know you are "anti LeafSpy", but I suspect you have a weak/bad cell (or two)...and the only way to identify/diagnose it is with LeafSpy. I suspect the OP may also have the same problem (zero degrees may not be cold for him, but it is cold for a Lithium battery); it may have been a coincidence...

Definitely not (unless you want to "brick" your NAV). Unfortunately, Nissan stopped offering map updates for the Gen1 Leaf after 2018. I have one, but I'm not sure if it's still offered. Check the Nissan website; the SD cards have to be "coded" to your vehicle, so you have to provide some info...

I waited 9 months for my 2011 Leaf purchased for ~$32k not including the $7500 rebate. Per my sig: Original 24kWh pack replaced (under warranty) in 2015 Upgraded to a 40kWh pack in 2021 Replaced NissanConnect with OVMS in 2022 I just hit 100k miles and am hoping to get another 100k miles out...

How can that be, when I have no mic issues and no TCU (replaced with OVMS)? Has to be something in the settings (or needs a re-boot).