Recent content by GreenaGiant

Just after I posted my last I realised the module was only clipped together. Has a good look and it looks pristine, electronics is my thing so I'm confident here. Interestingly, after putting everything back together my clicking has stopped and the relay buzzing has stopped. Time will tell how...

Well after much cussing at the retched design choices for connectors and brackets I've got the BCM out. The contacts look good except the bottom right pin of the bottom left (white) socket in the image below. It looks ok but has clearly handled some current in it's life...

Not sucking eggs at all, I've not done this before so it's all extremely helpful. Weather looks good today so hopefully can give it a go and let you know how I get on. Many, many thanks

Great news, thank you! How do I get at the BCM? It's it behind the glove box (so needs the glove box removing?) I've not dismantled stuff that far before so going at it a bit blind. Once I've found it I can do the cleaning and everything ok, competent at that bit at least! I'm guessing I should...

Yes, I have an OBDII and LeafSpyPro so will capture that as well. This was taken several weeks ago, so is pretty outdated and most are likely related to the 12V battery having died, so may not be much help:

Yes, I did check the charge port door. All seems to be working fine. Also, the ignition button light works as normal. Only lit when I open the car, not all the time. My suspicion, based upon not much, is the VCM being faulty in some manner. I have not gotten around to finding where this is...

Unfortunately no, as it stands. I am in a vicious cycle of banging my head against the wall, sticking rusty forks in my face and shouting expletives under the bonnet. Joking aside, what I have so far: 1. Clicking of a relay coming from inside the actual ipdm (as you describe) 2. Periodic...

So the current draw isn't up in the 7A region. There is a relay clicking on and off constantly but I can't access that relay. Pulling the 20A VCM fuse stops the relay clicking but obviously that's not a fix nor a diagnosis. Could it be that a CAN bus is down and something is trying to reboot a...

Good idea, ty. I shall give that a go when (if!) the rain stops. I have some kit to measure current etc. Cheers

The battery is definitely good. I put it on my battery tester for two cycles and got the rated 53Ah and that was when it was brand new last month. So, I am pretty convinced something is drawing power when it shouldn't be, when the car is "off", causing the battery to deep discharge. That low...

Interesting that they would monitor that. The aftermarket one I have installed is pulling just under 10mA when closed, for reference, in case anyone is able to measure the OEM one and compare :-) Another big thank you to everyone helping me and others out in this thread

The relay I gave a good test and it was fine right down to write a low voltage. I forget the exact number but it was around 6V. So I'm happy the ignition relay replacement is fine. The battery is brand new, 53Ah and has been tested too. I'm very familiar with electronics, albeit not on a car...

So the pain isn't over. Car is still being a pain and refusing to work properly. Mainly turning off is impossible without removing the ignition relay then pressing the power button. Getting the car into ready mode is also about 1:100 luck. So I think there's a deeper problem. I've just tested...

Agreed, good work! It is indeed slightly taller but does seem to fit with no issues. Thinking back, is there an easy way of getting the green relays out without breaking them? Those little latches are a nightmare to get at and manipulate.

Cheers. Yeah the 12V battery was knackered. I have replaced that now along with the relay but still have those issues. It is drivable, just annoying as hell. Thjankfully lockdown is giving plenty of time to do fault finding