Recent content by erco

Agreed, tighter seems better, right up until you strip threads or overstress the nut or axle. Also, I don't see whether that's wet or dry torque. Lube on the threads makes a HUGE difference.

TYVM, aqn! That's an extremely informative and helpful page you shared. Full marks.

IMHO 100 ft-lb is serious torque, applying tons of clamping force to lock the wheel to the axle. My theory is that ungreased parts will lock together better from that increased clamping friction. We shall see. There are numerous reports of the noise returning shortly after the dealer-prescribed...

I have all the parts and $20 M-77 grease to do the job, but today I decided to simply tighten my existing axle nut and the tink sound is GONE. Just lovely, satisfying silence. The mechanical engineer in me struggles to reconcile Nissan's fix/patch which seems to do two opposing things. First is...

That guy half-asses the job by reusing the nut. Also he lubes the nut side and says "lube the splines". TSB only says lube the spindle/bearing contact area on the backside.

I think that's key here in an EV, where the regen braking always applies reverse torque thru the splines. ICE cars' disk brakes work on the rotor OD, not the spline.

Not one reply in over 2 months? Come on, guys, please do better. I have the same question on my 2014. The Nissan dealer mechanic was useless.

~$20 for 2.65 oz is the going rate. Share with a friend! https://www.ebay.com/itm/123572591899

Doing this soon on my 2014. I've done lots of Googling and seen "updated" torque specs as high as 147 ft-lb for that big axle nut. Seems excessive. My Nissan dealer mechanic wouldn't say either way. Parts were darned cheap at the dealer, but $20 or 2 ounces of M-77 seems pricey.

Newer spec 055J still only lists torque for 2013: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2023/MC-10233904-0001.pdf What's the right spec for my 2014? My local dealer had the cheapest parts: Nut was $3+, washer & cotter pin $1+. Much cheaper than I found online anywhere. I talked the the dealer Leaf...

Thanks, it actually was fair. They are giving me $7140 for my 2014 S, all total $8100 including taxes & DMV fees. I just paid $7500 total for the replacement, another 2014, 15K fewer miles, same battery SOH (75%) and it's an SV, an upgrade. Probably cost me $150-200 to swap the tires. I'm happy...

Thanks for that insight on wheel/tire sizes. I passed on that SL and bought a lovely red SV with 16" wheels Saturday. The tires are new but crappy, not Ecopias nor LRR. I'll swap with my near-new Ecopias tires on the totalled car before insurance gets it. What did in my original 2014 S was...

I'm bumming, my 2014 S just got totaled so I am looking at a 2015 SL. The sad thing is that I just but new 16" Ecopias on my 2014, these are selling for $160 now! The 2015 has nice rims and new but cheap 17" GeoTour tires on it. Range on the GOM is low, I'm convinced because these are not LRR...

Ironically, your Onedrive PDF has disappeared by 2023 but the original slideshow remains. :)

This is the only forum I know of which I can't upload a photo directly to. Come on, it's 2023.